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  # 71  
Old 29-10-16, 12:00
frontslide frontslide is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petenz View Post
it's been in the bike for 3 years now never had to open the
motor... no probs at all with it....
lower gearing dose help letting the revs come up quicker
so the clutch locks up sooner..
I did build a better clutch stop to hold the stack open
as using the cable was inconsistant... now the cable has no
constant strain on it..



...
Thanks for the reply due to serious crash in 2010 only have my left arm so looking for a full auto clutch does this act as full auto if so what kit do i need to buy and would i need the alternative wedges? thanks again.
  # 72  
Old 29-10-16, 22:27
Petenz Petenz is offline
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With the clutch arm stop you can totaly do away with
the clutch lever...
But the clutch lever dose make putting it in nutral easyer..
the heavy weights are not needed but they do make the
unit lock up sooner at lower revs...

the Rekluse unit is the EXP2 for the WR/YZF 450 being for a WR/YZF the
clutch springs that come with it will not fit the XT so I used
EBC heavy duty springs...
There is now a EXP3 unit....


...


.
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Last edited by Petenz; 29-10-16 at 22:38.
  # 73  
Old 30-10-16, 20:02
frontslide frontslide is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petenz View Post
With the clutch arm stop you can totaly do away with
the clutch lever...
But the clutch lever dose make putting it in nutral easyer..
the heavy weights are not needed but they do make the
unit lock up sooner at lower revs...

the Rekluse unit is the EXP2 for the WR/YZF 450 being for a WR/YZF the
clutch springs that come with it will not fit the XT so I used
EBC heavy duty springs...
There is now a EXP3 unit....


...


.
Thanks for the information Petenz.
  # 74  
Old 31-10-16, 22:15
frontslide frontslide is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petenz View Post
it's been in the bike for 3 years now never had to open the
motor... no probs at all with it....
lower gearing dose help letting the revs come up quicker
so the clutch locks up sooner..
I did build a better clutch stop to hold the stack open
as using the cable was inconsistant... now the cable has no
constant strain on it..



...
Have you any pictures of the better clutch stop?
  # 75  
Old 01-11-16, 06:54
Petenz Petenz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frontslide View Post
Have you any pictures of the better clutch stop?
Page 7 .... Post 68 in this thread...





.
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The easyest way to turn gasoline into noise with out the side efect of horse power...
  # 76  
Old 01-11-16, 19:34
frontslide frontslide is offline
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Me again, sorry for all the questions, where in the clutch pack did you put the exp? and do you think it would be possible to leave the clutch push rod out altogether?
Thanks Mark
  # 77  
Old 02-11-16, 06:26
Petenz Petenz is offline
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there is a fiber & steel plate between the Rekluse unit & the pressure
plate.... "out side plate the springs work in..."
you would need to leave the clutch push rod/ drag rod in as you need a way
of holding the clutch stack slightly open so theres no drive till the revs come up
and the rekluse unit exspands tighting the clutch stack/compressing the plates..

the rekluse unit genarates enough force to compress the heavy duty clutch springs
when riding if yer pull the clutch lever it will go right into the grip with no force as
the clutch stack has been exspanded by the rekluse unit..


pete
...
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Last edited by Petenz; 02-11-16 at 06:32.
  # 78  
Old 02-11-16, 11:24
frontslide frontslide is offline
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I understand it now thank you for your time Pete.
  # 79  
Old 03-11-16, 07:30
Petenz Petenz is offline
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something I have thought about..
is doing away with the clutch springs & replaceing
them with alloy sleeves short enough so there is no
compression on the clutch stack.... use shim washers to
fine tune it...

This way you could do away with all the clutch
system completely....




....
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  # 80  
Old 03-11-16, 14:00
frontslide frontslide is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petenz View Post
something I have thought about..
is doing away with the clutch springs & replaceing
them with alloy sleeves short enough so there is no
compression on the clutch stack.... use shim washers to
fine tune it...

This way you could do away with all the clutch
system completely....




....
So in essence bolting the clutch pack up solid with a small gap between the pressure plate and friction plate to allow expansion from the EXP what would this gap need to be as a starting point? this is a good idea.
Also would the EXP be better positioned in the middle of the pack in this scenario?

Last edited by frontslide; 03-11-16 at 14:16.
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