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XT660Z Mods Share views on all the mods you have done and those you intend to do

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  # 1  
Old 28-10-16, 11:40
Arjen Arjen is offline
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H7 LED bulb

Hello,

Yesterday I fitted a H7 LED for the low beam to my xt660z. The bulb has a LED on one side. I can fit the bulb either facing the LED upwards or downwards.

Does anyone know if it matters how a fit the bulb?



When I look at the picture above the bulb is fitted with the LED down but in the manual that comes with the light it's facing upwards.
  # 2  
Old 28-10-16, 11:54
Pleiades Pleiades is offline
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You do realise you won't be able to see jack sh!t at night with that bulb... either fitted facing up or down!

The locating lug on the bulb's base plate determines which way it fits. It will only go in to the back of the headlight unit one way.
  # 3  
Old 28-10-16, 13:54
Arjen Arjen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pleiades View Post
You do realise you won't be able to see jack sh!t at night with that bulb... either fitted facing up or down!

The locating lug on the bulb's base plate determines which way it fits. It will only go in to the back of the headlight unit one way.

May I ask why you don't see anything at night with this bulb?

You have to fit the grey base plate with the lug first. In this baseplate you can fit the rest of the light just like for example a normal rear light bulb is fitted. You can fit it with the LED facing up or down.
  # 4  
Old 28-10-16, 18:22
Pleiades Pleiades is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arjen View Post
May I ask why you don't see anything at night with this bulb?
Mainly because the headlight reflector (and lens to a degree) are designed to work with a filament type bulb and not an LED, or HID for that matter. The nature of LED bulb design means that they are a bulky affair and there has to be a considerable supporting structure for the diodes which is opaque and interrupts the dispersal of light. Also, in the example shown in your photo, the three diodes are spread over a relatively wide area; the light emitting zone is not in one place so the light source is impossible to position at the focal point of the reflector (or the point at which the reflector was designed for). A traditional halogen bulb glows most brightly at the exact centre of the filament in a tiny but dense area which can sit at the focal point and crucially, the light emitted from that spot travels in every direction (360 degrees in every plane) and can make full use of the whole reflecting surface, unlike an LED bulb which can only emit light in one direction and at best to about 160 degrees.

A lot of baloney is talked about Lumens, but it is not a very good measure of the effectiveness of a light source. Lumens is an over simplistic measure of total light produced, not the amount that is focussed and 'useful'; it looks good on paper, which is why it's often quoted in the sales pitch. Lux is a far better measure at it is 1 Lumen per square metre, in other words focussed, useful light. An LED bulb may produce 3000 Lumens on the test bench and a halogen bulb just 1600, but with the halogen bulb nearly all the 1600 Lumens are useful. Generally speaking an LED bulb in a non-standard installation will be a third of the efficiency (two thirds of the Lumens are wasted). Your LED bulb will 'look' brighter (mainly because of the higher colour temperature tricking your eyes), but who looks at their headlight? It will more than likely put two thirds less 'focussed' light on the road, plus high colour temperature (bluer) light is far more prone to scatter than light towards the red end of the spectrum so in fog, rain etc. it will be even less efficient.

Aftermarket HIDs are slightly better, but the arc which emits the light is most intense at each end (think of it as 'dog bone' shaped). The weakest part of the arc is at the focal point meaning less focussed light and loads of glare, scatter and wasted light caused by the bright ends of the arc sitting outside the focal point. This is mainly why aftermarket HIDs 'appear' brighter (colour temperature helps this illusion) and why they are an annoyance to other road users.

HIDs work most efficiently in purpose designed refractor, or projector headlight units. LEDs only work anything like properly in purpose designed complete units such as you see on top end Audis, BMWs etc. and you should take a look at the complexity/expense of the design including the intelligent cooling system and massive heat-sinks required to reduce junction temperature.

Fit them, see how you get on with them... but don't expect miracles!
  # 5  
Old 28-10-16, 18:39
Arjen Arjen is offline
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Thanks for your explanation
  # 6  
Old 28-10-16, 21:06
Cozi70 Cozi70 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pepsi View Post
Seriously buddy....an H7 HID low beam fitment IS a massive improvement over a bog standard filament. It's just a matter of how much you care about local regulations pertaining to HIDs on motorcycles. As for oncoming drivers' discomfort, well that's easily dialled out by beam adjustment without losing the newly acquired improvement.

As stated, buy one, try one but I'll be utterly aghast if you don't see a huge improvement. Check out any of the millions of bike specific forums on the subject and you'll always get a positive result.

I've fitted HIDs to most of my bikes, FJR 13, Fazer 1000, CB1300, blar, blar, blar and there is no way I wouldn't fit a HID to another bike unless the space was unavailable.



$20NZ for an 'experiment'..............go on !
I have a load of spare hid bits here from various previous bike/car projects. I have 4300 and 6000k h7 bulbs and a suitable ballast box,but earlier this year I quickly looked at fitting a kit to my xt660z and recalled a strange mounting ring holding in the original standard bulb so left it as is.
What way do others modify this mount to accept an alternative bulb.

Cheers

Colin J
__________________
2011 xt660z.
Yoshimura cans ,kev mod,Dna 2, Stahlkoffer panniers,Hepco Becker box,Givi crash bars,Mita e07 tyres.
  # 7  
Old 28-10-16, 21:09
Pleiades Pleiades is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pepsi View Post
As for oncoming drivers' discomfort, well that's easily dialled out by beam adjustment without losing the newly acquired improvement.
Beam adjustment will make little or no difference to the annoyance factor, the point being that the annoyance is caused by glare and scatter from the unfocused portion of light - that which lies outside the 'beam'.
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