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  # 1  
Old 23-03-11, 14:21
aps aps is offline
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Oil service procedure

Hi,
I have some doubts about oil change and want clear some things in my mind.
I did read procedure stated in service manual and owners amnual.
I bought yamalube 10W40 oil and HiFlo HF145 oil filter (black-green box).
As I understand I have to:

1. Undo oil filler cap.
2. Undo oil drain bolt on crank-case and drain oil from crank-case.
3. Undo oil bolt on oil tank and drain oil out.
4. Undo oil drain bolt on oil filter and drain oil from filter case.
5. Remove oil filter cover and replace filter element.
6. Install all drain bolts (Crank-case, oil tank and oil filter).
7. Fill little less then 2l of oil and then start engine for few seconds.
8. Fill remainder of oil till 2.6l.
9. Undo bleed bolt on filter cover and start engine until oil start to go out.
10. Warm up engine and then check oil level.
Is this above correct procedure?
Few more questions:

Service manual says I have to remove camshaft sprocket cover before draining oil but owners manual doesn't. Do I really have to do this?

Service manual say when you fill first part of oil race engine for 5-6 times. What does this mean? Can I just start engine and let it idle for several seconds?

I read somewhere on this forum when draining oil from oil tank its wise to put back oil filler cap before I unscrew oil tank bolt and then slowly undo oil filler cap - to make less mess in front of bike. Is this correct?

Do I have to replace eny of bolts or washers or Orings?

Is it essential to have torque wrench or can I screw bolts with sensitive hand? I have only big one 60Nm-200Nm.

If anyone have some other guideline please write.

Sory for long post and thaks for answer in advance.
  # 2  
Old 23-03-11, 17:15
Pleiades Pleiades is offline
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On the Z it's 1.9l of oil for the first stage of filling and I have to say the two times I tried to get 1.9 in it always dribbled out and all over the radiator. I now put 1.75 in at the first stage and have no problems with spillage, then top up to 2.6l, put do it in stages to avoid overfilling. The capacities in the handbook seem to be a little on the "rough side". Better to err on the cautious side, and remember you won't be able to check the exact level of your newly replenished oil until you've actually ridden the bike and gone through the whole level checking fiasco!

I think my main dealer has the same problem, because the one and only time they changed my oil the rad was covered in oil and it sprayed all over my right leg on the way home!

Racing it = revving it!

If your careful ad the o-rings (2) under the filter cover look ok, you'll get away with reusing them the first time. I'm working on replacing them every other change. However, they are only a matter of pence, so it wouldn't break the bank to change them.

(Little tip: Don't remove the cover, or the filler cap until most of the oil has drained or it will go everywhere fast.)

You should be OK without a torque wrench, just don't over do it. You can always nip them up if they weep later.

Last edited by Pleiades; 23-03-11 at 17:23.
  # 3  
Old 23-03-11, 19:38
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Tony660x Tony660x is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aps View Post
Hi,
I have some doubts about oil change and want clear some things in my mind.
I did read procedure stated in service manual and owners amnual.
I bought yamalube 10W40 oil and HiFlo HF145 oil filter (black-green box).
As I understand I have to:

1. Undo oil filler cap.
2. Undo oil drain bolt on crank-case and drain oil from crank-case.
3. Undo oil bolt on oil tank and drain oil out.
4. Undo oil drain bolt on oil filter and drain oil from filter case.
5. Remove oil filter cover and replace filter element.
6. Install all drain bolts (Crank-case, oil tank and oil filter).
7. Fill little less then 2l of oil and then start engine for few seconds.
8. Fill remainder of oil till 2.6l.
9. Undo bleed bolt on filter cover and start engine until oil start to go out.
10. Warm up engine and then check oil level.
Is this above correct procedure? - looks good to me, as stated be careful on the last bit as its best not to overfill.
Few more questions:

Service manual says I have to remove camshaft sprocket cover before draining oil but owners manual doesn't. Do I really have to do this? - No

Service manual say when you fill first part of oil race engine for 5-6 times. What does this mean? Can I just start engine and let it idle for several seconds? - It means rev the engine 5-6 times ONCE you have put 2L of oil in NOT before

I read somewhere on this forum when draining oil from oil tank its wise to put back oil filler cap before I unscrew oil tank bolt and then slowly undo oil filler cap - to make less mess in front of bike. Is this correct? - Yes, the drain bolt out of the frame, release it slowly as it flows really really fast and has a tendancy to splash the front tyre.

Do I have to replace eny of bolts or washers or Orings? - You can do, I would not every time though.

Is it essential to have torque wrench or can I screw bolts with sensitive hand? I have only big one 60Nm-200Nm. - No, use your judgement is fine

If anyone have some other guideline please write. - Go for it, do it yourself, save a couple of �.

Sory for long post and thaks for answer in advance.
...

The only thing I would add is when doing the final check go for a run on the bike or run it for at least 10 minutes for it to fully circulate. A few minutes running wont settle the level.
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Last edited by Tony660x; 24-03-11 at 19:37.
  # 4  
Old 24-03-11, 13:02
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Thanks for your answers and support.

Quote:
If your careful ad the o-rings (2) under the filter cover look ok, you'll get away with reusing them the first time. I'm working on replacing them every other change. However, they are only a matter of pence, so it wouldn't break the bank to change them.
Money is not a problem its availability. I have to wait them for a week.
I'm not changing oil to save some money. I like to work on my bike (I like DIY) it's great way to familiarize with bike but this oil change, I read a lot about it and I get confused. This is my first dry sump engine bike.

Quote:
Race engine for 5-6 times - It means rev the engine 5-6 times
That's what I thought but is it a litle weird to rev engine with no oil (I know there is litle oil left in, but)?

Quote:
The only thing I would add is when doing the final check go for a run on the bike or run it for at least 10 minutes for it to fully circulate. A few minutes running wont settle the level.
I know that now. When I bought this bike first thing I did pull out the dipstick, wipe it, put in WTF no oil on it. I read service manual and then I went for short ride- again no oil on dipstick. I pour in 0,2-0,3l of oil and now I don't know do I have too much oil in engine so I don't want to ride it until I change the oil (can't wait anymore-the sun is shining here).


Guys thank's again for your input. This weekend I'm changing my oil, and some other stuff. Untill then if someone have anything to point out please say it.
  # 5  
Old 24-03-11, 13:50
Pleiades Pleiades is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aps View Post
That's what I thought but is it a litle weird to rev engine with no oil (I know there is litle oil left in, but)?
It should be part filled with oil (1.75-1.9l) in when you race it 5-6 times, which is plenty to cover this operation. Don't race it with no oil in it!
  # 6  
Old 24-03-11, 19:39
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Tony660x Tony660x is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aps View Post
Thanks for your answers and support.



Money is not a problem its availability. I have to wait them for a week.
I'm not changing oil to save some money. I like to work on my bike (I like DIY) it's great way to familiarize with bike but this oil change, I read a lot about it and I get confused. This is my first dry sump engine bike.


That's what I thought but is it a litle weird to rev engine with no oil (I know there is litle oil left in, but)?



I know that now. When I bought this bike first thing I did pull out the dipstick, wipe it, put in WTF no oil on it. I read service manual and then I went for short ride- again no oil on dipstick. I pour in 0,2-0,3l of oil and now I don't know do I have too much oil in engine so I don't want to ride it until I change the oil (can't wait anymore-the sun is shining here).


Guys thank's again for your input. This weekend I'm changing my oil, and some other stuff. Untill then if someone have anything to point out please say it.
Dont ever run your engine with no oil in. I have cleared up my response above to say part refill your oil with say 2L of oil then run the engine and rev it 5 or 6 times before the final fill.
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  # 7  
Old 24-03-11, 21:26
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I know I have to fill part of oil before starting and reving engine of course.
What I meant is when you fill oil tank with 1.7-1.9l of oil, oil is not in engine until oil pump carry it in engine.
Nevermind I was thinking about it, same thing happen every time during cold start.
  # 8  
Old 25-03-11, 01:02
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I do mine a little differently, I put 1.7L in the oil tank & the remainder measured oil I poor down the engine breather hose, go for a short ride then adjust oil level to suit the dip stick. This way you will never over or under full the motor & won't have any spills.

I perfer my way then what Yamaha states to do, my way you have the tank full & the correct amount of oil in the motor at start up.

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Mods that I have done to my XTX's

My 04 XTX
Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil /
[
My 07 XTX
Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator /

My 09 XTX
59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details

Now ride a 2018 MT09SP ABS + TCS

My KTM 990 SMR Mod book. http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4946


Last edited by Kev; 25-03-11 at 12:26.
  # 9  
Old 25-03-11, 12:13
aps aps is offline
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Thanks for the tip man. Picture says 1000 words.
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