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- - Oil service procedure ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=16450)

Oil service procedure

Hi,
I have some doubts about oil change and want clear some things in my mind.:017: :eusa_think:
I did read procedure stated in service manual and owners amnual.
I bought yamalube 10W40 oil and HiFlo HF145 oil filter (black-green box).
As I understand I have to:

1. Undo oil filler cap.
2. Undo oil drain bolt on crank-case and drain oil from crank-case.
3. Undo oil bolt on oil tank and drain oil out.
4. Undo oil drain bolt on oil filter and drain oil from filter case.
5. Remove oil filter cover and replace filter element.
6. Install all drain bolts (Crank-case, oil tank and oil filter).
7. Fill little less then 2l of oil and then start engine for few seconds.
8. Fill remainder of oil till 2.6l.
9. Undo bleed bolt on filter cover and start engine until oil start to go out.
10. Warm up engine and then check oil level.
Is this above correct procedure?
Few more questions:

Service manual says I have to remove camshaft sprocket cover before draining oil but owners manual doesn't. Do I really have to do this?

Service manual say when you fill first part of oil race engine for 5-6 times. What does this mean? Can I just start engine and let it idle for several seconds?

I read somewhere on this forum when draining oil from oil tank its wise to put back oil filler cap before I unscrew oil tank bolt and then slowly undo oil filler cap - to make less mess in front of bike. Is this correct?

Do I have to replace eny of bolts or washers or Orings?

Is it essential to have torque wrench or can I screw bolts with sensitive :icon_mrgreen: hand? I have only big one 60Nm-200Nm.

If anyone have some other guideline please write.

Sory for long post and thaks for answer in advance.

On the Z it's 1.9l of oil for the first stage of filling and I have to say the two times I tried to get 1.9 in it always dribbled out and all over the radiator. I now put 1.75 in at the first stage and have no problems with spillage, then top up to 2.6l, put do it in stages to avoid overfilling. The capacities in the handbook seem to be a little on the "rough side". Better to err on the cautious side, and remember you won't be able to check the exact level of your newly replenished oil until you've actually ridden the bike and gone through the whole level checking fiasco!

I think my main dealer has the same problem, because the one and only time they changed my oil the rad was covered in oil and it sprayed all over my right leg on the way home!

Racing it = revving it!

If your careful ad the o-rings (2) under the filter cover look ok, you'll get away with reusing them the first time. I'm working on replacing them every other change. However, they are only a matter of pence, so it wouldn't break the bank to change them.

(Little tip: Don't remove the cover, or the filler cap until most of the oil has drained or it will go everywhere fast.)

You should be OK without a torque wrench, just don't over do it. You can always nip them up if they weep later.

Quote:

Originally Posted by aps (Post 151950)

Hi,
I have some doubts about oil change and want clear some things in my mind.:017: :eusa_think:
I did read procedure stated in service manual and owners amnual.
I bought yamalube 10W40 oil and HiFlo HF145 oil filter (black-green box).
As I understand I have to:

1. Undo oil filler cap.
2. Undo oil drain bolt on crank-case and drain oil from crank-case.
3. Undo oil bolt on oil tank and drain oil out.
4. Undo oil drain bolt on oil filter and drain oil from filter case.
5. Remove oil filter cover and replace filter element.
6. Install all drain bolts (Crank-case, oil tank and oil filter).
7. Fill little less then 2l of oil and then start engine for few seconds.
8. Fill remainder of oil till 2.6l.
9. Undo bleed bolt on filter cover and start engine until oil start to go out.
10. Warm up engine and then check oil level.
Is this above correct procedure? - looks good to me, as stated be careful on the last bit as its best not to overfill.
Few more questions:

Service manual says I have to remove camshaft sprocket cover before draining oil but owners manual doesn't. Do I really have to do this? - No

Service manual say when you fill first part of oil race engine for 5-6 times. What does this mean? Can I just start engine and let it idle for several seconds? - It means rev the engine 5-6 times ONCE you have put 2L of oil in NOT before

I read somewhere on this forum when draining oil from oil tank its wise to put back oil filler cap before I unscrew oil tank bolt and then slowly undo oil filler cap - to make less mess in front of bike. Is this correct? - Yes, the drain bolt out of the frame, release it slowly as it flows really really fast and has a tendancy to splash the front tyre.

Do I have to replace eny of bolts or washers or Orings? - You can do, I would not every time though.

Is it essential to have torque wrench or can I screw bolts with sensitive :icon_mrgreen: hand? I have only big one 60Nm-200Nm. - No, use your judgement is fine

If anyone have some other guideline please write. - Go for it, do it yourself, save a couple of �.

Sory for long post and thaks for answer in advance.

...

The only thing I would add is when doing the final check go for a run on the bike or run it for at least 10 minutes for it to fully circulate. A few minutes running wont settle the level.

Thanks for your answers and support.

Quote:

If your careful ad the o-rings (2) under the filter cover look ok, you'll get away with reusing them the first time. I'm working on replacing them every other change. However, they are only a matter of pence, so it wouldn't break the bank to change them.

Money is not a problem its availability. I have to wait them for a week.
I'm not changing oil to save some money. I like to work on my bike (I like DIY) it's great way to familiarize with bike but this oil change, I read a lot about it and I get confused. This is my first dry sump engine bike.

Quote:

Race engine for 5-6 times - It means rev the engine 5-6 times

That's what I thought but is it a litle weird to rev engine with no oil (I know there is litle oil left in, but)?

Quote:

The only thing I would add is when doing the final check go for a run on the bike or run it for at least 10 minutes for it to fully circulate. A few minutes running wont settle the level.

I know that now. When I bought this bike first thing I did pull out the dipstick, wipe it, put in WTF no oil on it. I read service manual and then I went for short ride- again no oil on dipstick. I pour in 0,2-0,3l of oil and now I don't know do I have too much oil in engine so I don't want to ride it until I change the oil (can't wait anymore-the sun is shining here).

Guys thank's again for your input. This weekend I'm changing my oil, and some other stuff. Untill then if someone have anything to point out please say it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by aps (Post 152053)

That's what I thought but is it a litle weird to rev engine with no oil (I know there is litle oil left in, but)?

It should be part filled with oil (1.75-1.9l) in when you race it 5-6 times, which is plenty to cover this operation. Don't race it with no oil in it!

Quote:

Originally Posted by aps (Post 152053)

Thanks for your answers and support.

Money is not a problem its availability. I have to wait them for a week.
I'm not changing oil to save some money. I like to work on my bike (I like DIY) it's great way to familiarize with bike but this oil change, I read a lot about it and I get confused. This is my first dry sump engine bike.

That's what I thought but is it a litle weird to rev engine with no oil (I know there is litle oil left in, but)?

I know that now. When I bought this bike first thing I did pull out the dipstick, wipe it, put in WTF no oil on it. I read service manual and then I went for short ride- again no oil on dipstick. I pour in 0,2-0,3l of oil and now I don't know do I have too much oil in engine so I don't want to ride it until I change the oil (can't wait anymore-the sun is shining here).

Guys thank's again for your input. This weekend I'm changing my oil, and some other stuff. Untill then if someone have anything to point out please say it.

Dont ever run your engine with no oil in. I have cleared up my response above to say part refill your oil with say 2L of oil then run the engine and rev it 5 or 6 times before the final fill.

I know I have to fill part of oil before starting and reving engine of course.
What I meant is when you fill oil tank with 1.7-1.9l of oil, oil is not in engine until oil pump carry it in engine.
Nevermind I was thinking about it, same thing happen every time during cold start.

I do mine a little differently, I put 1.7L in the oil tank & the remainder measured oil I poor down the engine breather hose, go for a short ride then adjust oil level to suit the dip stick. This way you will never over or under full the motor & won't have any spills.

I perfer my way then what Yamaha states to do, my way you have the tank full & the correct amount of oil in the motor at start up.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa202/kevxtx/6a.jpg

Thanks for the tip man. Picture says 1000 words.

I did my first DIY drysump oil and filter change this weekend. My xt has new oil now.
Not tough job to do. A lot easier then it sounds. Moreover it was pleasure.
Didn't have to change any of washers or Orings all seemed good. I didn't splash my front tire and brakes with oil but now I know why everyone mention this.
Guys thank you for your help and tips.