clutch lever free play is increasing a lot when feathering - .: XT660.com

andys · # 1 10-11-15, 10:00

Hi,
I have that weird effect when riding offroad. I set the propoer clutch lever free play when bike is cold and then ride it hard feathering the clutch I end up with much bigger free play to the point the clutch does not disengage completely when operating with 2 fingers only. When it happens I have to pull the lever all the way to the handlebar to disangage. What is the cause of this behavior Is it because bike is relatively new? (like 2k miles) kinda annoying adjusting the lever constantly. Is xt660z tenere clutch good quality?
thanks

Pleiades · # 2 10-11-15, 11:24

to the forum Andy. Pity you had to join up because you've got a problem though!

Quote:

Originally Posted by andys

I have that weird effect when riding offroad. I set the propoer clutch lever free play when bike is cold and then ride it hard feathering the clutch I end up with much bigger free play to the point the clutch does not disengage completely when operating with 2 fingers only. When it happens I have to pull the lever all the way to the handlebar to disangage. What is the cause of this behavior Is it because bike is relatively new? (like 2k miles) kinda annoying adjusting the lever constantly. Is xt660z tenere clutch good quality?

A little increase in free play is normal as the engine/gearbox/clutch warms up. That's one of the reasons why an adjuster is provided on the clutch perch. If the free play gets excessive it’s an early sign that the clutch is overheating.

What happens is when the clutch gets hot, the plates expand and the clutch pack gets thicker. As the pushrod assembly passes through the clutch pack, this effectively increases the distance (gap) between the pressure plate and push rod, hence the lever goes slack. If you continue riding like this, the clutch starts to drag more due to not releasing fully, gets hotter and the situation gets worse; eventually it won’t disengage at all. When the clutch pack cools down the free play will usually return to normal.

If you do a lot of off road low speed riding where clutch feathering/slipping is required (conditions where the clutch pack gets hot) and you are adjusting the clutch free play when the bike is cold, then I would try and set it to have as little free play as you can get away with. The actual measurement is somewhat irrelevant as long as there is some play as you can rest in the knowledge that, in normal use, as things warm up it increases.

You could also try a 14T front sprocket to lower the final drive ratio which will negate the need to slip the clutch so much when riding slowly off road.

andys · # 3 10-11-15, 11:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades

to the forum Andy. Pity you had to join up because you've got a problem though!

A little increase in free play is normal as the engine/gearbox/clutch warms up. That's one of the reasons why an adjuster is provided on the clutch perch. If the free play gets excessive it’s an early sign that the clutch is overheating.

What happens is when the clutch gets hot, the plates expand and the clutch pack gets thicker. As the pushrod assembly passes through the clutch pack, this effectively increases the distance (gap) between the pressure plate and push rod, hence the lever goes slack. If you continue riding like this, the clutch starts to drag more due to not releasing fully, gets hotter and the situation gets worse; eventually it won’t disengage at all. When the clutch pack cools down the free play will usually return to normal.

If you do a lot of off road low speed riding where clutch feathering/slipping is required (conditions where the clutch pack gets hot) and you are adjusting the clutch free play when the bike is cold, then I would try and set it to have as little free play as you can get away with. The actual measurement is somewhat irrelevant as long as there is some play as you can rest in the knowledge that, in normal use, as things warm up it increases.

You could also try a 14T front sprocket to lower the final drive ratio which will negate the need to slip the clutch so much when riding slowly off road.

thanks a lot for explanation, so basically this is normal and this bike was not meant for slow offroad riding? Would aftermarket better clutch plates help as I understand stock are not so durable or hydraulic clutch conversion maybe?

Pleiades · # 4 10-11-15, 11:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by andys

thanks a lot for explanation, so basically this is normal and this bike was not meant for slow offroad riding? Would aftermarket better clutch plates help as I understand stock are not so durable or hydraulic clutch conversion maybe?

I don't think there's anything wrong with the Tenere clutch, what you are suffering is not a common complaint. It has cropped up before, but only once in a blue moon and there are loads of members who ride really hard off road and haven't had any trouble. JaumeV rallies his competitively on a weekly basis, and a couple of Zs have done the Heroes Legend Rally a number of times and it doesn't get any harder than that!

What you've got to remember is that any clutch is going to get too hot, do odd things and eventually fail if it given a hard time. How much of a hard time it gets depends as much on riding style as anything else.

HD clutch plates aren't going to help, they just bite harder so as to avoid slip under power. In fact, they are going to make feathering the clutch more difficult and generate even more heat due to the higher friction levels when doing so. Fitting a hydraulic clutch isn't going to help either as you've still got the push rod and pressure plate in the system.

As I mentioned, for cheapness, try a 14T gearbox sprocket and if you want a total solution the perhaps consider a Rekluse clutch?

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=20601

andys · # 5 10-11-15, 16:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades

I don't think there's anything wrong with the Tenere clutch, what you are suffering is not a common complaint. It has cropped up before, but only once in a blue moon and there are loads of members who ride really hard off road and haven't had any trouble. JaumeV rallies his competitively on a weekly basis, and a couple of Zs have done the Heroes Legend Rally a number of times and it doesn't get any harder than that!

are they riding standing up? because when seated you can use your whole hand for clutch and there is not big problem with increased free play.
When you stannding up it's annother story. My old transalp didn't have problems like that and I was slipping clutch has hell.

Pleiades · # 6 10-11-15, 16:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by andys

are they riding standing up? because when seated you can use your whole hand for clutch and there is not big problem with increased free play.
When you stannding up it's annother story. My old transalp didn't have problems like that and I was slipping clutch has hell.

I understand what's happening a bit more clearly now... You're standing and pulling the clutch with two fingers, and because your remaining two are in the way the clutch isn't fully disengaging and is getting hot as a result. This then compounds the problem by making the bite get lower and lower in the travel.

You could try firstly, as I mentioned before, taking out all but 1mm of free play when cold. Second, adjust the bite point so it's in the first quarter of lever travel at the release arm. Also check that the index mark on the release arm when pushed as far forward as it'll go lines up with the index mark on the crankcase cover - if these marks don't align then the biting point will be in the wrong place.

Finally you could try fitting some two-finger short levers (which I use) that I have to say do make clutch control a lot more comfortable when standing.

A lumpy single is very different from a smooth v-twin in terms of power delivery, a lot more revs are required at low speeds to stop a one pot motor from stalling, so is therefore bound to be much harder on the clutch. Fitting a 14T sprocket will help/compensate a lot in this respect.

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