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-   -   clutch lever free play is increasing a lot when feathering ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=24868)

andys 10-11-15 10:00

clutch lever free play is increasing a lot when feathering
 
Hi,
I have that weird effect when riding offroad. I set the propoer clutch lever free play when bike is cold and then ride it hard feathering the clutch I end up with much bigger free play to the point the clutch does not disengage completely when operating with 2 fingers only. When it happens I have to pull the lever all the way to the handlebar to disangage. What is the cause of this behavior Is it because bike is relatively new? (like 2k miles) kinda annoying adjusting the lever constantly. Is xt660z tenere clutch good quality?
thanks

Pleiades 10-11-15 11:24

:welcome: to the forum Andy. Pity you had to join up because you've got a problem though! ;)

Quote:

Originally Posted by andys (Post 215859)
I have that weird effect when riding offroad. I set the propoer clutch lever free play when bike is cold and then ride it hard feathering the clutch I end up with much bigger free play to the point the clutch does not disengage completely when operating with 2 fingers only. When it happens I have to pull the lever all the way to the handlebar to disangage. What is the cause of this behavior Is it because bike is relatively new? (like 2k miles) kinda annoying adjusting the lever constantly. Is xt660z tenere clutch good quality?

A little increase in free play is normal as the engine/gearbox/clutch warms up. That's one of the reasons why an adjuster is provided on the clutch perch. If the free play gets excessive it’s an early sign that the clutch is overheating.

What happens is when the clutch gets hot, the plates expand and the clutch pack gets thicker. As the pushrod assembly passes through the clutch pack, this effectively increases the distance (gap) between the pressure plate and push rod, hence the lever goes slack. If you continue riding like this, the clutch starts to drag more due to not releasing fully, gets hotter and the situation gets worse; eventually it won’t disengage at all. When the clutch pack cools down the free play will usually return to normal.

If you do a lot of off road low speed riding where clutch feathering/slipping is required (conditions where the clutch pack gets hot) and you are adjusting the clutch free play when the bike is cold, then I would try and set it to have as little free play as you can get away with. The actual measurement is somewhat irrelevant as long as there is some play as you can rest in the knowledge that, in normal use, as things warm up it increases.

You could also try a 14T front sprocket to lower the final drive ratio which will negate the need to slip the clutch so much when riding slowly off road.

andys 10-11-15 11:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 215860)
:welcome: to the forum Andy. Pity you had to join up because you've got a problem though! ;)



A little increase in free play is normal as the engine/gearbox/clutch warms up. That's one of the reasons why an adjuster is provided on the clutch perch. If the free play gets excessive it’s an early sign that the clutch is overheating.

What happens is when the clutch gets hot, the plates expand and the clutch pack gets thicker. As the pushrod assembly passes through the clutch pack, this effectively increases the distance (gap) between the pressure plate and push rod, hence the lever goes slack. If you continue riding like this, the clutch starts to drag more due to not releasing fully, gets hotter and the situation gets worse; eventually it won’t disengage at all. When the clutch pack cools down the free play will usually return to normal.

If you do a lot of off road low speed riding where clutch feathering/slipping is required (conditions where the clutch pack gets hot) and you are adjusting the clutch free play when the bike is cold, then I would try and set it to have as little free play as you can get away with. The actual measurement is somewhat irrelevant as long as there is some play as you can rest in the knowledge that, in normal use, as things warm up it increases.

You could also try a 14T front sprocket to lower the final drive ratio which will negate the need to slip the clutch so much when riding slowly off road.

thanks a lot for explanation, so basically this is normal and this bike was not meant for slow offroad riding? Would aftermarket better clutch plates help as I understand stock are not so durable or hydraulic clutch conversion maybe?

Pleiades 10-11-15 11:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by andys (Post 215861)
thanks a lot for explanation, so basically this is normal and this bike was not meant for slow offroad riding? Would aftermarket better clutch plates help as I understand stock are not so durable or hydraulic clutch conversion maybe?

I don't think there's anything wrong with the Tenere clutch, what you are suffering is not a common complaint. It has cropped up before, but only once in a blue moon and there are loads of members who ride really hard off road and haven't had any trouble. JaumeV rallies his competitively on a weekly basis, and a couple of Zs have done the Heroes Legend Rally a number of times and it doesn't get any harder than that!

What you've got to remember is that any clutch is going to get too hot, do odd things and eventually fail if it given a hard time. How much of a hard time it gets depends as much on riding style as anything else.

HD clutch plates aren't going to help, they just bite harder so as to avoid slip under power. In fact, they are going to make feathering the clutch more difficult and generate even more heat due to the higher friction levels when doing so. Fitting a hydraulic clutch isn't going to help either as you've still got the push rod and pressure plate in the system.

As I mentioned, for cheapness, try a 14T gearbox sprocket and if you want a total solution the perhaps consider a Rekluse clutch?

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=20601

andys 10-11-15 16:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 215863)
I don't think there's anything wrong with the Tenere clutch, what you are suffering is not a common complaint. It has cropped up before, but only once in a blue moon and there are loads of members who ride really hard off road and haven't had any trouble. JaumeV rallies his competitively on a weekly basis, and a couple of Zs have done the Heroes Legend Rally a number of times and it doesn't get any harder than that!

are they riding standing up? because when seated you can use your whole hand for clutch and there is not big problem with increased free play.
When you stannding up it's annother story. My old transalp didn't have problems like that and I was slipping clutch has hell.

Pleiades 10-11-15 16:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by andys (Post 215865)
are they riding standing up? because when seated you can use your whole hand for clutch and there is not big problem with increased free play.
When you stannding up it's annother story. My old transalp didn't have problems like that and I was slipping clutch has hell.

I understand what's happening a bit more clearly now... You're standing and pulling the clutch with two fingers, and because your remaining two are in the way the clutch isn't fully disengaging and is getting hot as a result. This then compounds the problem by making the bite get lower and lower in the travel.

You could try firstly, as I mentioned before, taking out all but 1mm of free play when cold. Second, adjust the bite point so it's in the first quarter of lever travel at the release arm. Also check that the index mark on the release arm when pushed as far forward as it'll go lines up with the index mark on the crankcase cover - if these marks don't align then the biting point will be in the wrong place.

Finally you could try fitting some two-finger short levers (which I use) that I have to say do make clutch control a lot more comfortable when standing.

A lumpy single is very different from a smooth v-twin in terms of power delivery, a lot more revs are required at low speeds to stop a one pot motor from stalling, so is therefore bound to be much harder on the clutch. Fitting a 14T sprocket will help/compensate a lot in this respect.

andys 10-11-15 18:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 215867)
I understand what's happening a bit more clearly now... You're standing and pulling the clutch with two fingers, and because your remaining two are in the way the clutch isn't fully disengaging and is getting hot as a result. This then compounds the problem by making the bite get lower and lower in the travel.

You could try firstly, as I mentioned before, taking out all but 1mm of free play when cold. Second, adjust the bite point so it's in the first quarter of lever travel at the release arm. Also check that the index mark on the release arm when pushed as far forward as it'll go lines up with the index mark on the crankcase cover - if these marks don't align then the biting point will be in the wrong place.

Finally you could try fitting some two-finger short levers (which I use) that I have to say do make clutch control a lot more comfortable when standing.

A lumpy single is very different from a smooth v-twin in terms of power delivery, a lot more revs are required at low speeds to stop a one pot motor from stalling, so is therefore bound to be much harder on the clutch. Fitting a 14T sprocket will help/compensate a lot in this respect.

exactly what I meant, thanks again. Will check the marks on crankcase but bike is almost new so it should be set properly I'd assume. The minimal freeplay is alreadt set. I was thinking about short adjustable levers and I think I will get them soon. Are they harder on your fingers becase of the shorter length? I love this bike and the cluthc operation is the only problem I have.

Pleiades 10-11-15 18:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by andys (Post 215868)
bike is almost new so it should be set properly I'd assume.

Unfortunately not always the case with XTs! PDIs don't seem to be Yamaha dealers' strongest suit. Half of my bike fell off when I rode it the 20 miles home brand new from the dealer, and when I did get home everything that could be adjusted needed adjusting! ;)

Quote:

Originally Posted by andys (Post 215868)
I was thinking about short adjustable levers and I think I will get them soon. Are they harder on your fingers becase of the shorter length?

I haven't noticed any difference. Clutch action is light as it always was.

andys 10-11-15 19:46

just checked the index marks and when clutch is released (not touched) those marks are aligned. Should they be alligned when I pull the clutch or in the rest position?

Delivery inpection is a joke, I agree. I had to already adjust idle revs, brakes positions etc.

Pleiades 10-11-15 20:51

The proper way to check the lever arm alignment is with the cable detached. You should be able to push the lever arm forward with your fingers (against the force of its return spring) until it stops (the pushrod has reached the pressure plate) and won't go any further because you're now up against the clutch springs). At this point the index marks should line up and you've taken up all the slack in the push rod and operating mechanism.

In normal use the index marks should more or less line up with the handlebar lever at rest and the clutch engaged, but this is only only an approximate guide. Here's what my index marks look like with the cable in place...

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbd98a9aa.jpg


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