So today my tenere has died on me in spectacular way...
During some moderate fast offroading, on acceleration through some bumps she has made a noise and lock the rear wheel, like chain come off.... naturally i have pull the clutch and stop, then i was trying to find neutral, at this point when i press on the lever bike has made awful grinding noise and then become quiet and revved up... so i stop the engine, and checked the chain... all good.
Try to start the bike, and despite neutral light on she was on gear (?!!) also clutch seems to not work... I have try to down shift to 1st gear and start the engine, just to get out off the green lane to main road... starts and start going slowly on 1st gear........ after about 5 meters loud bang and bike stall... since then starter wouldn't even spin the crankshaft - its like hitting something with loud metallic noise.
I think something is really messed up :-(
There is no neutral, to push the bike you need to pull the clutch.
What you think guys??? - gearbox or something with piston?

I'm not sure, but when pulling the clutch releases the rear wheel it shoud be a problem between clutch and piston. As far as I know the clutch is located between crankshaft and gearbox.

The only way to be sure is to open the engine

Cia�
Solitario

Sounds expensive, you will need to strip the motor, stop trying to start the motor you could be causing further damage, pull the clutch cover off first ^ check the main crank gear & nut.

__________________
Click here to join the XT Supporter's scheme

Mods that I have done to my XTX's

My 04 XTX
Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil /
[
My 07 XTX
Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator /

My 09 XTX
59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details

Now ride a 2018 MT09SP ABS + TCS

My KTM 990 SMR Mod book. http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4946

I know, it sounds grim... i will start from taking off clutch cover, and see there first. If this will look OK, then stripping the engine, and to be honest i'm not that confident in this type of work. Cylinder, cylinder head i'm ok with, but splitting engine in half it's too much for me :-(
Will probably go for buying second hand engine and swapping, or selling bike as non runner :-(

If you can pull the head off an overhead cam engine then may I suggest at least have a go at splitting the cases if that is whats required. Think of the knowledge you'll gain and with google and XT660.com as your friends what have you got to lose? It sounds a daunting task but with the right methodical approach its amazing what you can achieve. Good luck mate.

Sent from my MB526 using Tapatalk 2

I wonder if it's a problem as reported earlier on the forum - maybe the shift drum stopper bearing has failed with fatal consequences to third gear.

Scary to hear! I hope all goes well for you.
I read somewhere that it would be advisable to replace that stopper around 50k. So I replaced mine , the bearing was fine and seemed well, but the arm was bent. Also changed the chain tensioner. Makes me wonder about the reliability of the engine as my last bike was ridden hard for twenty years.

Thank you for your good words :-) Will see in what mood i will be when it comes to stripping.

Do you have to split the engine to replace this stopper?


More i read about this it's more possible it's this...

I recover the bike yesterday (it was in someone back garden until i organize a van) and play around a bit.

My conclusion was - clutch works ok, i even managed to find the neutral playing with gear change lever (it felt very "wonky")... Interesting thing was - when on second or third gear (can't tell as shifting the gear was pretty messed up) you can push the bike without pulling a clutch (!!!) It feels "heavy" but there is no contact with piston or crank as its smooth (you can't feel or hear piston travel).

Good luck mate and let us know how it goes!!!!

__________________
(Now sold on, sob) 2011 Blue XT660X with gold wheels, was 26,500 km.
Engine mods: K&N Stage 1 filter, DNA Stage 2 filter, snorkel removed, Kev fuel mod fitted.
Plus: smoked Puig screen, Yam aluminium sump guard, Yamaha / Acerbis handguards, Givi Trekker aluminium side cases, Leo Vince X3 cans plus Kev front fork mod and Fender Xtender. Just fitted Michelin Road Pilot 3 tyres.

SOLD the XTX for a Super Ten 1200. And just bought a Raptor 700 so staying on here for some tips....