...because the clutch inhibitor switch will stop the bike starting if it thinks it's in gear and the clutch lever is not pulled in! You need to do pull the lever in to fool the bike into starting.

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In actual fact the new clutch has not burned out as I thought it had as the smell of the old burnt out clutch must have lingered

Chapters 5-38 Of the service manual. There's a picture at the top Of the clutch housing. The triangle marked notches Are positioned at the top Where As mine are off to the right hand side. Would this Be enough to prevent the clutch from working.

However that's how it was with the old clutch and the old clutch was working very powerfully

How do you undo tighten the clutch boss nut without the clutch housing from turning also it turns when tightening the spring nuts

Try putting it in gear and holding back brake on.
You shouldn't need to undo the nut holding the basket on to change friction plates.
best regards,
Jim

If there are no clutch plates inserted the hub and basket will rotate independently of each other. You can easily make a clutch holding/locking tool out of one of your old friction plates and one old plain steel plate. Rivet them together, then place them in the clutch basket, which should lock the basket and hub together stopping them rotating separately.

Then (as Jim says) you can put it in gear and hold the rear brake to get everything locked up – bit tricky on your own though.

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You can use a small ratchet or luggage strap through the rear footpeg loop and down round the actuating arm for the back brake, then tighten it whilst applying pressure on brake pedal or depending on position of bike put a loop around pedal and adjust it so you can put it round your foot to hold brake on while you are working.
Good luck and let us know if your successful.
Jim

The first thing I did when I got back tonight was thank you guys. you guys are tremendous. thank you very much. All of the advice added up together seem to Click together and it finally moved. Dont know why but The biggest thing that really made a difference was to disengage the clutch wire and test it in gear. .
That s not in the manual.

One more 16 k hike tomorrow to collect my tools and my road bike.
Totally knackered

Yeah! , Congratulations, its good when it all comes right in the end
Best Regards,
Jim

Thanks mate. Now just looking at the total cost of the ride I took I don't know what I was doing riding through landslides and sh**. Four days off work and a totally knackered body + parts.
And the cheapest oil i could find. Not sure if its worth putting expensive oil in or not.
Anybody wondering about crashbars they're worth their weight in gold.
Need a new brake pedal. I think i need a flexible one. any ideas?