Hi guys,
I just adjusted my chain today as it was kind of slack and think it could be about time to replace it and the sprockets but would like a second opinion. Here are some pictures of the teeth on the rear sprocket, as you can see they are slightly curved which I believe means that its due for replacement?





I just had a look at the service history and the chain and sprocket were replaced about 12k miles ago.

Also could anyone give me some tips as to how to align the rear wheel properly? I had to completely remove my adjuster nuts as they were stuck together so when replacing them I had to go by the markings on the swingarm but I am led to believe they aren't always accurate.

Any help will be much appreciated thanks!

Thanks Pepsi I've got a renthal sprocket set with tsubaki x ring chain on the way and a scottoiler which should keep me going for another few years. Good to know that the rear wheel is aligned properly too!

Ok that's good to know when I adjusted it it was on a center jack balanced on the swingarm pin and the front wheel so the swingarm wouldn't have been compressed at all. The only way I could think of compressing it would be to use a ratchet strap, is there a better way to do it or would this be good enough do you think? Surprised it isn't mentioned in the service manual at all! All it says is:

1. Stand the motorcycle on a level surface.
WARNING _
Securely support the motorcycle so that
there is no danger of it falling over.
NOTE:
_
Place the motorcycle on a suitable stand so
that the rear wheel is elevated.
2. Spin the rear wheel several times and find
the tightest position of the drive chain.

The safest (and easiest) way to check the tension at the tightest point (when the axle is in line with the front sprocket/output shaft) is to undo the dog bones from the swingarm; you can the raise and chock the rear wheel at the desired height with minimal effort.

What I would do is set the tension as you would normally, then undo the dog bones, lift the wheel and verify if your "normal adjust" gives enough slack with the axle/sprocket in alignment.

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I so have to get off my proverbial and do this!!

Center stand the bike, drop the dog bones and use a jack to raise swing arm to perfectly in line with the front sprocket. Adjust chain till no slack and back off a tiny smidge. Cycle swing arm up and down and ensure chain was adjusted in the correct location and chain does not go tighter at any other point through travel.
Drop swing arm down and scribe a mark on swing arm as set measure point and take a measurement with vernier. Record the measurement and never have to stuff around with chain measuring again. Just raise bike on center stand and measure as per MY spec!

Matt.

As long as you have 40 to 50mm of slack when bike is on it's side stand in the Centre of the chain after you find the tight point if there is one. It will be fine and just check it as often as you can and you will not have a problem with the chain I lube mine after every ride with wurth chain lube as it does not fling at all, so no mess on the bike. The adjuster blocks are pretty much spot on for straightness I did mine last week just by the marks on the blocks, then got out my laser liner to check it and it was 100% dead straight. Hope this helps.if you are not sure on what to do just get the haynes manual, it's good for beginners to learn how to look after there bikes. It's handy to have, I must have about 30 of them for the bikes I have had over the last 6 years. All the best to everyone on here.

Just follow your owner/service manual. There is no real need to mess with more parts than needed. Give some trust to Mr Yamaha. Unless you have modified geometry of your bike.

Thanks for the advice guys I also feel if the swingarm needed to be compressed to measure chain slack then Yamaha would have indicated that in the manual so I will stick with doing it that way. Obviously if you want to be meticulous or if you have modified the swingarm or drive chain then compressing the swingarm would be essential but as I haven't I think I will stick with the traditional method.
All input is much appreciated thanks!

Who hasnt?? haha Simply winding up the rear shock preload or raising/dropping the forks adjusts how the Ten sits on its sidestand. Additionally I have welded a large foot onto my side stand. Hence why I want to a have measurable SET adjustment to make everytime I need to.

Absolutely.

The amount of fuel in the tank (particularly on the Z) can have a big influence on the angle/position the bike sits on the side stand too. Add to that tyre wear, tyre pressure and what Macca has mentioned and there's quite a bit of ambiguity.

Just remember, the guide in the manual is only ever going to give an approximate setting - the side stand is a variable factor. A centre stand however is a constant.

I wouldn't advocate dropping the dog bones every chain adjustment, just once (or every now and again) as a reference point.

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