Hi guys,
I just adjusted my chain today as it was kind of slack and think it could be about time to replace it and the sprockets but would like a second opinion. Here are some pictures of the teeth on the rear sprocket, as you can see they are slightly curved which I believe means that its due for replacement?





I just had a look at the service history and the chain and sprocket were replaced about 12k miles ago.

Also could anyone give me some tips as to how to align the rear wheel properly? I had to completely remove my adjuster nuts as they were stuck together so when replacing them I had to go by the markings on the swingarm but I am led to believe they aren't always accurate.

Any help will be much appreciated thanks!

Thanks Pepsi I've got a renthal sprocket set with tsubaki x ring chain on the way and a scottoiler which should keep me going for another few years. Good to know that the rear wheel is aligned properly too!

Ok that's good to know when I adjusted it it was on a center jack balanced on the swingarm pin and the front wheel so the swingarm wouldn't have been compressed at all. The only way I could think of compressing it would be to use a ratchet strap, is there a better way to do it or would this be good enough do you think? Surprised it isn't mentioned in the service manual at all! All it says is:

1. Stand the motorcycle on a level surface.
WARNING _
Securely support the motorcycle so that
there is no danger of it falling over.
NOTE:
_
Place the motorcycle on a suitable stand so
that the rear wheel is elevated.
2. Spin the rear wheel several times and find
the tightest position of the drive chain.

The safest (and easiest) way to check the tension at the tightest point (when the axle is in line with the front sprocket/output shaft) is to undo the dog bones from the swingarm; you can the raise and chock the rear wheel at the desired height with minimal effort.

What I would do is set the tension as you would normally, then undo the dog bones, lift the wheel and verify if your "normal adjust" gives enough slack with the axle/sprocket in alignment.

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I so have to get off my proverbial and do this!!

Center stand the bike, drop the dog bones and use a jack to raise swing arm to perfectly in line with the front sprocket. Adjust chain till no slack and back off a tiny smidge. Cycle swing arm up and down and ensure chain was adjusted in the correct location and chain does not go tighter at any other point through travel.
Drop swing arm down and scribe a mark on swing arm as set measure point and take a measurement with vernier. Record the measurement and never have to stuff around with chain measuring again. Just raise bike on center stand and measure as per MY spec!

Matt.

As long as you have 40 to 50mm of slack when bike is on it's side stand in the Centre of the chain after you find the tight point if there is one. It will be fine and just check it as often as you can and you will not have a problem with the chain I lube mine after every ride with wurth chain lube as it does not fling at all, so no mess on the bike. The adjuster blocks are pretty much spot on for straightness I did mine last week just by the marks on the blocks, then got out my laser liner to check it and it was 100% dead straight. Hope this helps.if you are not sure on what to do just get the haynes manual, it's good for beginners to learn how to look after there bikes. It's handy to have, I must have about 30 of them for the bikes I have had over the last 6 years. All the best to everyone on here.

What are the wear marks in the pic that tell you that the sprocket is cactus?

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The play on the chain of the Tenere should be 50-60mm, as it says in the owner's manual and workshop manual, not 40-50mm. I don't know what's the play for the R and X though?

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XT660Z Tenere '08 http://dallastx.smugmug.com

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You can see the right hand side of the teeth are worn right down. I've seen worse but mine are bad enough!

Agreed the bike should be on a center stand wih the weight off of the rear wheel when adjusting the chain as it says in the manual, this eliminates any variation from fuel weight or tyre wear.

R and X chain slack should be 40.0 ~ 55.0 mm (1.57 ~ 2.17 in) according to the manual

So I fitted my new chain and sprockets today, the old ones were really shot especially the front one!



Turns out my front sprocket was actually the wrong way around with the bit that pokes out pointing away from the bike as you can see in the picture. Fortunately I had a look at the service manual to check torque settings and noticed the diagram had it the other way around.

I also packed my cush drive rubbers with some inner tube. They were pretty bad and I had to use 2 layers of inner tube to get the sprocket carrier to stop moving but now it's in there nice and tight.