Originally Posted by Pepsi

might be my misinterpretation but if your clutch plates are not in the correct order and particularly the outer most plate has its not been sat in its correct position you will get zero clutch lever movement. Also, you have to make sure your clutch 'actuation arm' fitted to the clutch cover is correctly aligned with the teeth on its drive mechanism as you replace the clutch cover over the clutch basket. Both subjects are covered in searchable threads here.

Originally Posted by Marcus90

Hi! I placed all the plates in the correct order (I have a repairmanual for the bike) and i fited the arm at the correct place. Still the leaver wont move and i can start the bike i first gear whitout touching the clutch.

Originally Posted by Pleiades

Firstly, being able to start the bike in first gear without touching the clutch is nothing to do with the clutch! It'll be the either a duff clutch lever switch of dicky neutral light causing the start inhibit system not to inhibit starting.

As for the clutch, as Pepsi suggests, nine times out of ten when this problem occurs it is the pull rod and release lever/shaft that are out of alignment, gears not meshed or set in the wrong position. What you have to remember is the teeth on the pull rod must face backwards before the cover is replaced and the release arm on the cover must be pointing to the back of the bike also (parallel to the casing). As you push the cover home the release arm will (or should) move round to its normal position. At this point, when the cover is bolted down hand-tight, push the release arm forward as far as it will go to check the index/punch marks on arm and casing line up. If not remove the cover, mover the release arm back or forward at touch corresponding to how far out the punch marks were.

A lot of people (and we had one only last week) make the mistake of trying to line up the punch marks before replacing the cover which results in... a permanently engaged clutch!

I know you say you fitted the release mechanism correctly, but just double check by removing the clutch cable and push the release arm forward with your finger until it can't move anymore. Do the punch marks line up? Does the release arm move forward at all?

Originally Posted by Marcus90

i can start the bike then put it into firstgear, with both the clunking nature of puting the bike in first gear and the neutral light turning off.

Originally Posted by Marcus90

When i push the release arm forward until i cant move it more, its in the right place on the markings. When i then attach the cable to the clutch arm its totaly stiff.

Originally Posted by Marcus90

When i took of the clutch cover again i noticed that the clutch plates actually move a bit, atleast the outer most plate. I can wiggle it about 2mm give or take. Is this right?

Originally Posted by Pleiades

Sorry, I though you meant start it in first, rather than start it and then change into first!

Originally Posted by Pleiades

Next obvious question: Is the clutch cable moving freely through the outer?

Originally Posted by Pleiades

No it isn't. There should be no movement or gaps between the plates. If there is the most likely cause is the pressure plate isn't engaged properly with the basket and as a result the pull rod won't do its job either. Did you remember the thrust washer before refitting anything else? Did you remember the anti-judder seat and spring, which must be fitted the right way round (marked 'outside'). Are the plate tabs correctly located in the correct slots marked with triangles on the basket? The first (innermost) friction plate fits into the deeper right-hand slot (looking when the slots are at the top) and the final friction plate goes in the shallow left-hand slot.