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XTR - What do you set your preload to?
On some roads my XTR is jarring my spine a bit and causing me to get a headache and a "cracky" neck. I don't get this on my BMW!
Before I start thinking what to replace, I was wondering if I should increase the rear preload. With my riding gear, I'm 100kg and my preload is set to 2 out of 5, the standard setting with 1 being soft and 5 being hard. I wondered whether I would benefit from increasing the preload a notch. I guess 100kg is a bit heavier than average for this bike. Have any of you guys who understand suspension better than me set your preload for your weight with good results? If so, please post your weight and preload setting! Thanks! ![]() |
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set the rear shock pre-load to give 75mm of sag while you are seated..(( 35%/40% of suspension travel , the wheel
needs to have travel in both directions when you are seated on the bike)) or as close as you can get with your weight & the stock yamaha spring... The chattering over small consecutive bumps is something you have to live with , as the XT shock is rubbish.. But the correct sag will make the damping a little better as the shock is not fighting against a overly high pre-load setting.. The max pre-load on a shock spring should be no more than 20mm between free length & max pre-load compression.. I set my bikes at 1/3rd "30%/35%" sag of wheel travel with a linear progression curve..(endruro set up rarther than MX) XTR @ 75mm rider Sag.. WR250F @ 100mm rider sag..
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Harley Davidson.. The easyest way to turn gasoline into noise with out the side efect of horse power... Last edited by Petenz; 06-06-13 at 05:35. |
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The most important piece of kit when tinkering with suspension is a pen and paper,jot down what you have done,ride 10/15 mile stop have a think and do another alteration,can't feel the difference??? do a big one and then try.
The important thing remember suspension is a personnel thing there's no right and wrong it's what works for you. Just remember even if you spend big bucks on Ohlins/Wilbers(I have on 3 other bikes) they will still be a trade off,on a road bike what works on some roads most certainly won't on others. Have some belief in yourself and what you want,blimey I've been frigged about by some suspension guru's I can tell you. If you get the chance ride a BM with ESA or a Ducati Multi with either electric Ohlins or the version with Sachs active Skyhook version,it's someone else's idea of what is good for you,I hated both with a passion but some people love e'm. Just tinker and remember your old settings!!. Although in fairness to achieve what your really after you'll need a shock with remote preload(makes life easy) and separate compression and rebound and even then you won't get those even with a Wilbers unless you pay extra. |
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Thanks guys.
I'll perhaps have a look at figuring out the sag sometime, but I've read through stuff on suspension many times and it all goes over my head. I'm really looking for something like "I am a scrawny guy and I have my preload on 1" and "I am a fat git and so's my wife, and I have my preload on 4". Nice and simple. ![]() I won't look at it for a week as I'm heading off for a tour of the Scottish Highlands and islands tomorrow for 8 days. Luckily my spine will get a nice rest, as I'll be on my K1300S with ESA, so I can just push the button for "fatty with luggage" and off I go! ![]() |
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