Hi All,

Done a few miles on the bike now (3200) and noticed a few faults - don't know if others have any experience??

I expect to have them all fixed under warranty....

1) Bars not straight - have fiddled with them, undone triple clamp bolts, taken front wheel out etc etc - can never get it dead right. Very annoying not having straight bars...is there an easy way of doing it and getting it dead on?

2) Panels on RHS - the grey ones...cracking around the bolt holes in the plastic. Dealer said the factory overtightens on production?? Being replaced.

3) Radiator expansion tak leaks - the bolt holes (where the grey plastic fairing things attach as above) leak around their edges - temp fix using hot knife to burn a groove around the dges and then using silicone sealant. Again will be replaced by dealer.

4) Cush driver rubbers shot - fixed myself using the cut up inner tube method.

Had

Bars - might be that the risers aren't straight with respect to the top yoke. They're rubber mounted, presumably to help stop vibration, and they can get a bit twisted. If you slacken the bar clamps off they'll probably go back.


Not seen or heard of any of the other issues, apart from the cush drive one. Sounds like #3 might be the result of #2. Hopefully your dealer gets it sorted for you.

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I spent a lot of money on travel and racing motorcycles - the rest I just squandered.

XT660Z - Commuter, Adventurer...Racer?

www.dashmoto.net

Other bikes >> MT-03 / CG125BR-J / ER-6F
Departed >> ZXR400L3 / EC300 / DR-Z400E / DR800S / GPZ500S / GS400

And you did not mention what model, is it an XT660T?? And u bought it new???? Take it back to a good dealer and NEVER return to the idiots you bought it from. They are PAID by Yamaha to prepare the bike for you so the crap about the factory is simply er crap. Find a proper dealer and tell Yamaha UK about these clowns. Wow. I have had 3 XTs and about 20 bikes and NEVER experienced service like yours.

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(Now sold on, sob) 2011 Blue XT660X with gold wheels, was 26,500 km.
Engine mods: K&N Stage 1 filter, DNA Stage 2 filter, snorkel removed, Kev fuel mod fitted.
Plus: smoked Puig screen, Yam aluminium sump guard, Yamaha / Acerbis handguards, Givi Trekker aluminium side cases, Leo Vince X3 cans plus Kev front fork mod and Fender Xtender. Just fitted Michelin Road Pilot 3 tyres.

SOLD the XTX for a Super Ten 1200. And just bought a Raptor 700 so staying on here for some tips....

My coolant over flow bottle also leaked around the nut inserts. While I waited for the new bottle everything I tried failed.

Hmm...interesting. I assumed the uppermost thread insert was also an indicator to when the coolant reservoir was full as it is about the same level as the full mark. Mine doesn't seem to leak with the bolt in place.

For the bars...did you try just turning it full lock and giving the bars a good push to move them into line?

Usually solves what you describe...


.

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The Suit:What would you consider to be your greatest weakness?
Me: Honesty.
The Suit: Honesty? I don't think honesty could be construed as a weakness.
Me: I don't give a f**k what you think.

.[IMG] [/IMG]

Sorry to revive an old thread, but is this correct? I have just bought a 2010 xt660z and noticed that there was a slight leak coming from the coolant reservoir. I took the plastics off to check the tank and coolant poured out from the middle bolt.

The guy I bought the bike from says this is be design and its done to restrict over fulling the reservoir?? I can't seem to find much info on it tho.

Rubbish!

What often happens is the three bolts that hold the plastic cover over the reservoir get fitted back incorrect order/place. One (the upper front) is much longer than the others and if it gets fitted in one of the shallow holes in the tank, it pierces the reservoir and you get a leak.

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Funny that - I also had my coolant overflow bottle replaced for the same reason.