Well, today i went for a dyno run.

Appears the engine is running between lean and way too lean.
Not helping also, is that the db-killer in the Exan exhaust is not working with the sensor that has to be put down the pipe. So the killer was removed.

I've booked it for the 30th for tuning. He will drill a hole in the end of the db-killer to put the sensor through. After tuning a bolt can be inserted in the hole.

Wasnt expecting that ditching the intake ring and switching for Akrapovic to Exan would make such a difference.

Now i'm looking for a tune that is close to my setup, so we can use that as a base.

The lack of catalysts in the Exan will make a big difference.

That must be it, but I'm sure your tune is already a lot better then the original that came with the bike

Thanks! [emoji482]

Meanwhile: got more sh#t done:

- set chain slack
- mounted Barkbuster VPS handguards
- cut windscreen into shape
- removed last bit of AIS piping
- some adjustment to compression on forks
- adjusted speedohealer

90% ready for my upcoming trip to Andorra :D

Below some further details:

For adjusting the chain slack, i used the elaborate method of putting the swingarm in line with the swingarm axle and output shaft.
In the photo below i drew the line. On the photo it doesnt line up perfectly, partially because the position from where the photo was taken gives a slightly misleading view, and partially because i didnt use a string, but did it by the naked eye :)
Anyhow, i removed the bolt from the dogbone/linkage and lifted the rear wheel
An easy job, but you should determine the tight spot on the chain before hand with the bike on a stand. As you can imagine, after supporting the rear wheel, it's harder to turn it...

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E..._0231_edit.jpg

Barkbusters VPS: I'm happy with the looks, fit, (optical) quality and ease of installation.
But it interfered with the lower broadest part of the windscreen on maximum steering angles :(
So i thought about lifting the handlebars, so it wouldn't be a problem.
I got some imitation Roxrisers, but after some measuring and testing, it didn't seem like the best solution for my riding position.
So i decided to trim the screen. I used a paper and traced the edges of the screen. Then i marked the part to be cut of, and used this on both sides, so to get a symmetrical result.
There's plenty of guides on youtube how to trim your windscreen, so i wont show you how i did it.
I'm happy with the result. Only on close inspection, you can see that the screen has been slashed. I have full steering angle and the riding position isn't messed up
I forgot to take a photo...

Removing AIS piping: i had bought a blinding plate from OTR before. But there's little room for an Allen key to get the bolts out. Luckily i found a shortened Allen key in my Tenere toolkit. To get some more access, i removed the lower side panel and the exhaust header bolt.
As you can see i had a silicon cap on the piping, but this a bit more nice & neat, and let's not forget the weight savings ;)

The removed pipe:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c...o/DSC_0257.JPG

The remaining hole in the engine. I removed the exhaust header bolt on the other side.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-P...o/DSC_0258.JPG

the plate with the original gasket-kind-of-thingy
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s...o/DSC_0260.JPG

and the shortened Allen key
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b...o/DSC_0261.JPG


For some reason the setting on the speado healer got messed up. I looked up a manual online ( http://healtech-electronics.com/docs...rsGuide_en.pdf ), and it proved very easy to setup.
I have the speedohealer tiewrapped to the post that used to hold the AIS valve.
You can see a blue connector on the photo. I was going to ask on the forum what it is for. But while typing this post it dawned on me how silly of me....
Of course it is the connector for the AIS...

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-L...o/DSC_0262.JPG

All that's left now is a proper dyno tune, which hopefully will be done Saturday

And here some more info about getting my engine properly tuned:

A picture of my bike on the dyno:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-o...o/DSC_0244.JPG

after two runs the conclusion was it was too lean. My setup is similar to Pleiades, so he was kind enough to share his tune. I compared both with Excel, see result below:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J...vsPleiades.png
Map1 is Pleiades, Map2 is mine. Red means lower, blue higher value, compared to Map2. The values represent precentages of extra fuel by the PowerCommander.

And Pleiades marked up the part of the tune that relates to useable parts of the table:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-t...o/IMG_0292.JPG

So you can see, the tune i had on the bike has been tuned for a big part in a not very usefull range...

I didn't notice a difference while riding with the seat-of-the-pants dynoruns. At low throttle though, the engine runs a little snatchy. We'll see how that will turn out after the dyno tuning

I just came back this weekend from an allroad ride in the Pyrinees, Andorra.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Id...=w1680-h945-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Hd...=w1680-h945-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AS...=w1680-h945-no

A couple of conclusions after my ride:

- the engine is choppy and uncomfortable with touring at low revs, but standing up and riding with very low revs, the engine works just great! This was a surprise for me. In first gear the engine is a bit agressive on the gas and requires the clutch for better control. For longer highway rides i dont think the engine is that great.

- It is very sturdy and crash resistant. I dropped it 3 times at low speeds. (almost) no damage to the bike, except for a bend brake pedal. For this i'll be mounting a brake snake.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...llyprep012.jpg

- the bike can take a good beating, especially with the WP shock and fork. Even though i managed to bottom out the rear and front with a jump and big muddy pit. But that might be because the bike may be undersprung for my weight. The previous owners were smaller and lighter.

- the standard plastic bash plate works really well. It took some beating with big rocks and also works supporting my bike with it's prop stand. I see no reason for changing it for an aluminum version.

- My prop stand works perfectly. http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=24108
I had two flats:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ps...s=w720-h405-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0B...c=w522-h949-no

- The s-moto tail tidy could use a more sturdy mounting of the rear light. Now it's only mounted at the top. It didnt break, but with the single engine shacking and the offroad bashing, i think it will only be a matter of time before it breaks/bends. I will email S-moto about this, i have a mod in mind.

- Riding with 1.8 bar tire pressure is too little of you plan on drifting and tail braking into a corner.Standard tube will rip apart. Riding with 2.0 bar worked well, but i could feel a difference in handling and grip.

- anakee 3 tires work very well on the asphalt and are ok on good gravel roads with small rocks. But the more rought roads or wet offroad it doesnt inspire confidence.

- The headlight protector from OTR/PowerBronze is not suitable for offroad use. The velcro doesnt work well enough, i lost the protector :(

- the standard indicators are not dustproof. They are now grey/brown on the insite

- the rear break is a bit to agressive. Steel brake lines are out of the question. I'll check to see what kind of brake pads are on. I want organic, not sintered.

- the red foam grips on my handlebars are too big, especially the middle part

With the experience of this trip i have made the following list of modifications i will do before my next trip:

- mount Heidenau K60 Scout tires
- replace bend brake pedal and mount brake snake
- find better headlight protector
- mount extra LED flood lights for riding at night
- brace rear light on s-moto tailtidy
- mount waterpump protection (lower crash bars from Touratech or OTR waterpump guard)
- mount different/smaller handlebar grips

and perhaps:
- pivot pegz. Makes riding standing up/shifting and braking easer
- maintenance and new springs in my shock and forks.

Great write up and photos, the bike is looking superb! Have enjoyed following it's progress, Steve

Good stuff! :023:

You can't beat a good shakedown test to find out what's good and what's not.

Funny thing is, it's taken me nearly seven years of ownership to get the Ten sorted to my requirements and there are still one or two niggles to address. It's a long old (and expensive) process but well worth it. Keeps the interest up in the bike too - bike's that are perfect out the crate get boring very quickly! ;)

The weekend before i left on my trip, i had my bike tuned.

I had a dyno run before with the tune that came with the bike. That proved to be way too lean. Pleiades was so kind to lend me his tune. I ended up making a hybrid tune of mine and his and returned to get the bike tuned. The hybrid was a lot better. In the end i paid just € 100 for the bike to get tuned, the tuner lend me his VStrom during the day so i could get on with my business.
KMS in Poeldijk was the tuner.

Below is the comparison of the new tune (left) with the hybrid (right)

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3...WkU&authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3R...=w1026-h663-no
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3A...ew?usp=sharing
Also attached the PCV file:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3A...ew?usp=sharing

The bike has been running great!

I'm happy for you that your bike is all coming together for you. It's a great feeling achieving a well sorted bike to your own specific needs, which is what gets discovered by getting out there & using it. Great write up looks like a terrific ride.
I see your new list has Pivot Pegs. I fitted some to my Tenere & I really enjoy them for what I use the bike for 50% tar 50% Gravel/dirt/off road. Cheers.