XT660Z Oil Change. How to
 

I changed the oil along with the oil filter today on the XTZ....all 2.6 litres of it.

Buy your oil at whatever spec you need along with a filter.

I thought I'd take a few pictures and a step through guide for those who would like to change their own oil but never have. If you've never done it before why not give it a go and save time and labour?

First start the moto and run it for about 5mins on tick over to get the oil warmed up so as to flow out more easily,when it comes the time to drain it.

I have a centre stand so I keep it on it and let the moto tick over whilst I get tools organized.

You'll need a 13mm,17mm socket/spanner,and a 5mm allen key.(A torque wrench is optional but recommended )a funnel and two containers to catch the old oil.

Remove the engine oil filler cap (dipstick) from the top of the frame where the steering head bearings live...It should only be finger tight. Set it to one side where it can not get dirty.

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Next stage....Pretend my moto is clean....ahem.....the Yamaha manual states to remove the plastic sump guard.... (I keep mine on)...Take yours off if you want to(only 4 mounting screws underneath)

Remove the oil drain plug (13mm socket)on the lower part of the front down tube frame(called the Oil Tank) There'll be a copper washer so watch it doesn't part company with the drain bolt and get lost.







PUT A CONTAINER TO CATCH THE OIL RIGHT UP TO WHERE THE BOLT IS GETTING LOOSENED......IF NOT YOU WILL INDEED GET A SPOUT OF OIL UNDER PRESSURE SCOOTING OUT ONTO THE FRONT TYRE/WHEEL









(It doesn't really matter whether you start at the crankcase drain bolt or down tube drain bolt)

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After this move around to where the crankcase oil drain bolt is. You'll find it behind the gear lever. Loosen off with a 19mm socket and catch the oil with a second container.

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Whist the oil is draining move around to the oil filter element cover,on the other side of the engine.It has 'Oil Filter' embossed on it and it's held on with 3 allen key bolts.

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Remove the bottom one first as this is the oil filter housing bleed screw. In my case the oil runs into the sump guard and out a hole into a container.

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When oil ceases to flow or slows down considerably,gently remove the oil filter cover plate as shown(making sure the lower,orange colored oil seal doesn't fall out)

In the picture you can see that there is corrosion on one of my bolts. This is rubbed off before refitting with a wire brush. Coating with copper grease is a good idea afterwards. Check any o rings and replace if necessary...in my case all was well.

( By the by I only found one metallic piece of swarf on the filter)

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Clean any left over oil on the oil filter cover with a clean rag.

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Offer up the new filter to the oil filter cover after smearing clean engine oil on the rubber seals on each end of the oil filter....and set to one side.It can only go in one way by the by.

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Before installing the oil filter...clean off any old oil with a clean rag from within the oil filter housing itself.

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Offer up the oil filter cover and oil filter and gently line it up. Screw in the steel bolts and nip up tight. When nipped up..a good rule of thumb I use...is tighten a further eighth of a turn...that's all you'll need. Steel gets a good hold on soft alloy with out the need to over tighten . I have found in the past that sometimes when torquing engine casing bolts,such as these,that even at the specified 10Nm of torque,that the torque wrench can strip the threads...hence that eighth of a turn method!!

Install the crankcase oil drain bolt and torque to 30Nm

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Make sure the oil drain bolt,for the down tube frame oil tank,has it's copper washer with it.

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Screw in and torque to 18Nm

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After this pour in,at the oil filler cap(dipstick) 1.9 litres of oil.

Put filler cap back on and start the engine and rev it 5 or 6 times then switch it off.

Remove oil filler cap again and put in an extra 0.7litres.

Start the engine and let it tick over,on level ground,(on centre stand)for about 5mins. Switch engine off. Remove oil filler dipstick cap,clean off with a clean rag and place the dipstick into the oil frame neck with out screwing it in...Remove and check oil level....Add oil if need be to bring it up to level. Repeat process to confirm all is well...

Give yourself a pat on the back and go straight out and buy beer with the money you've just saved..

:)

Great post and pics buddy....its funny I was just thinking about how to do that this evening whilst out bimbeling on the ten!
:WellDone_OROQR1:

Thanks for the kind words....

Great!!!...Give it a whirl and see how you get on?

:)

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This the second one of your "how to" posts I have read. Don't know if you could have your own section or sticky or something but every step explained and with a photo to boot!

I know a lot of us take the routine maintenance as it comes but for some it's a little harder.

Keep up the good work with the photos.

Why thank you kind Sir!

If anyone can get confidence to do at least one job them selves....then it's a start...and think of the money saved that can go for beer!!!


:)

Thanks, very useful.

or more petrol to get out on your bike:slywink:

I'll add my voice to the thank yous!
Being new to bikes in general, reading a guide like this, with pictures of the hidden magical things behind covers and such, really gives me a mind to try myself the next time!

So, thank you for the guide, hope to see more!

Thanks inmates.....

There'll be other articles coming up when the maintenance schedule dictates...

:)

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Thanks Ohlins, was going to change the oil/filter in mine for the first time today, having bought the bike 2ndhand with 3500 kms on it, and now having done another 2000+ km I thought it was time.

Must admit, I stuggled slightly with the service manual description, especially when it came to the volume of oil (??).

Found your thread and followed it to the letter - all done. Bike's all ready now for the Flinders Ranges Classic in 3.5 weeks.:eusa_dance:

cheers

Excellent.......Glad the article helped......

Did you get beer with the money saved?....

:002:

I would add, careful with the dipstick o-ring, easy to lose and you don't see it's not there because it's black of course, but you'll find out soon enough with oil all over the place... Also, you should check the bleed bolt on the oil filter housing, after changing the oil it has to be slightly loosened with the motor running and a little oil should seep out if everything's fine. Finally, the oil level should be checked only after riding for a while, before that you'll get a false read. Anyway, if you've just filled up with the prescribed amount of oil, there's little need to check at this point. But do check after first ride, in case there are any leaks. Oh and I like to always dip any and all nuts and bolts in oil before reassembling, dry threads not a good thing.

Thanks for that snippet of information....I'll bear that in mind next oil change ref. the bleeder.

:)



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Well done and a big thank you!! The only problem I found was the oil running all over the place then I opened the oil tank plug, my container was not in the right place hehe. Keep up the good work!!!

aaahhhhh...that old one...we've all been there ......well you'll only do it once...

:)



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Thank's for the write-up here, there is, now, a very useful book called Adventure Motorcycle Maintenance Manual by Haynes http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/s...3529&langId=-1 that gives a more detailed how to on the XT660z and others' :)

Oil filler hole??
 

What is the best way in refilling the bike with fresh oil when the oil-filler-hole is in such an awkward deep-down & out-of-the-way place, apart from taking this area apart? or use/find a very long, thin funnel?? :homework:

No need to take anything appart - just get yourself something along these lines or attach a hose to a standard funnel.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_255216

Great one!

Few add-ons:
- Filter needs replacement only every 20.000km according to the book
- I always fill the filter with oil before mounting. In this way there is less air in the system and the motor is running less time with proper lubrication.
- I fill the oil using a 1L bottle with a long neck. Without cap put your finger on the top and turn it up-side-down now you can go to the dipstick hole and take of your finger, you will get it....

More please!!!!!

I have found (initially) that there is no need to remove the oil filter housing drain screw completely. Just unscrew it, pull it part way out, and loosen the bleed bolt on top of the filter housing. Let the housing drain into the crankcases. Saves oil oil from drooling into the bashplate. Usually some will still try and escape when the filter cover is removed, but a rag takes care of that.

Hi there , I did an oil change this weekend, but if I enter 2.6L it is showing to full ...

my dipstick shows half cm above above maximum ...

never really figured it out ... ,
and now after the oil change , when the bike is cold (and it's freezing here) and I start it it make a rattling noise , but after two three pulls on the throttle it goes away ...

anybody else found out 2.6 is too much for his bike ?

Are you following the correct procedure? Drain crankcase, oil tank and filter housing. Then fill with 1.9 litres of oil, run the engine and 'race it 5 or 6 times', then add the remainder. That's from the XTR book, I assume the Tenere is identical.

yes I did :)

the draining I didn't do in the same order ,
I first did the front one , then the side one near the side stand , then the oil filter ...

how long are you guys waiting untill it's empty , as it keeps on dripping for a while after the big flood comes out ...

It is unlikely that 2.6L is an issue imo, as I usually have to put 2.7L to fill mine. I lean it over from side to side, holding it as long as I can, which drains a bit more oil out than if it's just left to drip.

The oil level is then just under the full mark, checked when hot after a decent ride.

The rattle is more than likely engine noise before the oil has circulated imo. Hopefully...

I'd like to add my thanks too Ohlins. I wish I'd read this before changing my oil though: I managed to get oil on my front tyre and all over the garage floor from the tank drain plug - I wasn't expecting such a high-pressure spout!!!

A top-tip for getting oil in to the highly-inaccessible filler cap - cut a short length of garden hose and stuff a small funnel in one end - then stick the other end on the filler hole and pour away.

I too would also like to add my thanks to Ohlins - as I changed mine with basic tools while on the road recently. Knowing this in advance, I saved Ohlins "how to" guide - very helpful. :headbang:

Guzlr - that top tip would have been handy a few weeks back! I ended up laying the bike on it's side to fill the oil tank, much to the amusement (and horror) of many. I'm sure I could have appropriated a piece of hose :eusa_shhh:

No photos, I was a little messy at the time.
:smilies0966:

Thanks for the thanks chaps!!


:)


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I hope you found the coolant leak, just above your hand on the rubber hose?

Tip for draining the frame tube tank from another inmate on ADV.

One plastic soft drink bottle.
Hole through the side and out the other side towards the bottom, just big enough for socket and extension arm to pass through.
Place bottle over socket and extension arm and push socket onto drain bolt.
Holding plastic bottle upside down and pushed up to the drain bolt, undo drain bolt.
Oil spurts into plastic bottle and runs out the bottom into container.
Sorted.
Do you really need pics?

Good idea...that Workshop Tips section in adv is good.


:)


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I just did all the above instructions but it seems my bike needs...3 litres of oil!!! And still the dipstick shows no oil...what's the catch?

I've verified everything for leaks...I have none. I'm a bit scared to add more but...clean dipstick tell me so. What to do?

Later edit: I started the bike, rode it for 10 mins then I let it cool down for 1 h and now the dipstick all the way up filled with oil!!! So, I took out 400 ml of oil out of the total of 3l thus reaching the indicated 2,6 litres. But...still the dipstick is filled with oil so now it seems that I have too much.

Something is wrong here....nevertheless I just let it be this way and then ride it for 250 kms. Everything ok until now...

PICS please!
 

Pix always are nice, even if this is self explanatory. Are the pics posted up on Advrider?

How long is your dipstick? I know that sounds a bit odd but when I took my Tenere to the local Yahama dealer for a head bearing replacement last year they told me there was a 'recall' on it for the dipstick. It turned out the dipstick fitted was too short so they fitted a longer one. The new one has a 'probe' part that is about 3 inches long (I'm not going out in the dark to actually measure it though).

I don't know, I never measured my...dipstick. :D But I'll be back with it.

Mine doesn't even reach the oil when the tank is full :o

I drain the oil as thoroughly as possible and pour in 2.8L (1.7 then 1.1), and leave it at that. Generally it shows 'full' after a ride, but it can be random, so as long as it's well up the dipstick, I don't worry. Over the years I've owned four dry sump Yamahas and a couple of Hondas, and they've all been the same.

Checking oil after a bike has been run on the sidestand will always result in a wrong reading imo. Ideally, a dry sump bike should have its oil checked at the end of a ride, I believe.

Thank you very much. Amazing guide !!

You're welcome

:)


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Ohlins- excellent write up...I can almost smell the money I have saved!

Go buy beer with the money saved now.....

:)



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