Home

Go Back   .: XT660.com - The #1 XT660 Resource :. > XT660Z T�n�r� > XT660Z T�n�r� Tech Section
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Main site

Google

XT660Z T�n�r� Tech Section Tyres, Mods, Luggage & Long distance preparation

 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Prev Previous Post   Next Post Next
  # 1  
Old 22-03-12, 19:10
Ohlins Ohlins is offline
XT-Moto SuperStar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SW French Pyrenees
Posts: 579
Ohlins is on a distinguished road
XT660Z Oil Change. How to

I changed the oil along with the oil filter today on the XTZ....all 2.6 litres of it.

Buy your oil at whatever spec you need along with a filter.

I thought I'd take a few pictures and a step through guide for those who would like to change their own oil but never have. If you've never done it before why not give it a go and save time and labour?

First start the moto and run it for about 5mins on tick over to get the oil warmed up so as to flow out more easily,when it comes the time to drain it.

I have a centre stand so I keep it on it and let the moto tick over whilst I get tools organized.

You'll need a 13mm,17mm socket/spanner,and a 5mm allen key.(A torque wrench is optional but recommended )a funnel and two containers to catch the old oil.

Remove the engine oil filler cap (dipstick) from the top of the frame where the steering head bearings live...It should only be finger tight. Set it to one side where it can not get dirty.

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

Next stage....Pretend my moto is clean....ahem.....the Yamaha manual states to remove the plastic sump guard.... (I keep mine on)...Take yours off if you want to(only 4 mounting screws underneath)

Remove the oil drain plug (13mm socket)on the lower part of the front down tube frame(called the Oil Tank) There'll be a copper washer so watch it doesn't part company with the drain bolt and get lost.







PUT A CONTAINER TO CATCH THE OIL RIGHT UP TO WHERE THE BOLT IS GETTING LOOSENED......IF NOT YOU WILL INDEED GET A SPOUT OF OIL UNDER PRESSURE SCOOTING OUT ONTO THE FRONT TYRE/WHEEL









(It doesn't really matter whether you start at the crankcase drain bolt or down tube drain bolt)

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

After this move around to where the crankcase oil drain bolt is. You'll find it behind the gear lever. Loosen off with a 19mm socket and catch the oil with a second container.

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

Whist the oil is draining move around to the oil filter element cover,on the other side of the engine.It has 'Oil Filter' embossed on it and it's held on with 3 allen key bolts.

[IMG] [/IMG]

Remove the bottom one first as this is the oil filter housing bleed screw. In my case the oil runs into the sump guard and out a hole into a container.

[IMG] [/IMG]

When oil ceases to flow or slows down considerably,gently remove the oil filter cover plate as shown(making sure the lower,orange colored oil seal doesn't fall out)

In the picture you can see that there is corrosion on one of my bolts. This is rubbed off before refitting with a wire brush. Coating with copper grease is a good idea afterwards. Check any o rings and replace if necessary...in my case all was well.

( By the by I only found one metallic piece of swarf on the filter)

[IMG] [/IMG]

Clean any left over oil on the oil filter cover with a clean rag.

[IMG] [/IMG]

Offer up the new filter to the oil filter cover after smearing clean engine oil on the rubber seals on each end of the oil filter....and set to one side.It can only go in one way by the by.

[IMG] [/IMG]

Before installing the oil filter...clean off any old oil with a clean rag from within the oil filter housing itself.

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

Offer up the oil filter cover and oil filter and gently line it up. Screw in the steel bolts and nip up tight. When nipped up..a good rule of thumb I use...is tighten a further eighth of a turn...that's all you'll need. Steel gets a good hold on soft alloy with out the need to over tighten . I have found in the past that sometimes when torquing engine casing bolts,such as these,that even at the specified 10Nm of torque,that the torque wrench can strip the threads...hence that eighth of a turn method!!

Install the crankcase oil drain bolt and torque to 30Nm

[IMG] [/IMG]


Make sure the oil drain bolt,for the down tube frame oil tank,has it's copper washer with it.

[IMG] [/IMG]

Screw in and torque to 18Nm

[IMG] [/IMG]

After this pour in,at the oil filler cap(dipstick) 1.9 litres of oil.

Put filler cap back on and start the engine and rev it 5 or 6 times then switch it off.

Remove oil filler cap again and put in an extra 0.7litres.

Start the engine and let it tick over,on level ground,(on centre stand)for about 5mins. Switch engine off. Remove oil filler dipstick cap,clean off with a clean rag and place the dipstick into the oil frame neck with out screwing it in...Remove and check oil level....Add oil if need be to bring it up to level. Repeat process to confirm all is well...

Give yourself a pat on the back and go straight out and buy beer with the money you've just saved..

__________________
The Suit:What would you consider to be your greatest weakness?
Me: Honesty.
The Suit: Honesty? I don't think honesty could be construed as a weakness.
Me: I don't give a f**k what you think.

.[IMG] [/IMG]

Last edited by Ohlins; 19-04-16 at 06:17.
 

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 05:09.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

  XT660         Archive   Main site


Footer
vBSkinworks Top