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Oil service procedure
Hi,
I have some doubts about oil change and want clear some things in my mind.:017: :eusa_think: I did read procedure stated in service manual and owners amnual. I bought yamalube 10W40 oil and HiFlo HF145 oil filter (black-green box). As I understand I have to: 1. Undo oil filler cap. 2. Undo oil drain bolt on crank-case and drain oil from crank-case. 3. Undo oil bolt on oil tank and drain oil out. 4. Undo oil drain bolt on oil filter and drain oil from filter case. 5. Remove oil filter cover and replace filter element. 6. Install all drain bolts (Crank-case, oil tank and oil filter). 7. Fill little less then 2l of oil and then start engine for few seconds. 8. Fill remainder of oil till 2.6l. 9. Undo bleed bolt on filter cover and start engine until oil start to go out. 10. Warm up engine and then check oil level. Is this above correct procedure? Few more questions: Service manual says I have to remove camshaft sprocket cover before draining oil but owners manual doesn't. Do I really have to do this? Service manual say when you fill first part of oil race engine for 5-6 times. What does this mean? Can I just start engine and let it idle for several seconds? I read somewhere on this forum when draining oil from oil tank its wise to put back oil filler cap before I unscrew oil tank bolt and then slowly undo oil filler cap - to make less mess in front of bike. Is this correct? Do I have to replace eny of bolts or washers or Orings? Is it essential to have torque wrench or can I screw bolts with sensitive :icon_mrgreen: hand? I have only big one 60Nm-200Nm. If anyone have some other guideline please write. Sory for long post and thaks for answer in advance. |
On the Z it's 1.9l of oil for the first stage of filling and I have to say the two times I tried to get 1.9 in it always dribbled out and all over the radiator. I now put 1.75 in at the first stage and have no problems with spillage, then top up to 2.6l, put do it in stages to avoid overfilling. The capacities in the handbook seem to be a little on the "rough side". Better to err on the cautious side, and remember you won't be able to check the exact level of your newly replenished oil until you've actually ridden the bike and gone through the whole level checking fiasco!
I think my main dealer has the same problem, because the one and only time they changed my oil the rad was covered in oil and it sprayed all over my right leg on the way home! Racing it = revving it! If your careful ad the o-rings (2) under the filter cover look ok, you'll get away with reusing them the first time. I'm working on replacing them every other change. However, they are only a matter of pence, so it wouldn't break the bank to change them. (Little tip: Don't remove the cover, or the filler cap until most of the oil has drained or it will go everywhere fast.) You should be OK without a torque wrench, just don't over do it. You can always nip them up if they weep later. |
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The only thing I would add is when doing the final check go for a run on the bike or run it for at least 10 minutes for it to fully circulate. A few minutes running wont settle the level. |
Thanks for your answers and support.
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I'm not changing oil to save some money. I like to work on my bike (I like DIY) it's great way to familiarize with bike but this oil change, I read a lot about it and I get confused. This is my first dry sump engine bike.
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Guys thank's again for your input. This weekend I'm changing my oil, and some other stuff. Untill then if someone have anything to point out please say it. |
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I know I have to fill part of oil before starting and reving engine of course.
What I meant is when you fill oil tank with 1.7-1.9l of oil, oil is not in engine until oil pump carry it in engine. Nevermind I was thinking about it, same thing happen every time during cold start. |
I do mine a little differently, I put 1.7L in the oil tank & the remainder measured oil I poor down the engine breather hose, go for a short ride then adjust oil level to suit the dip stick. This way you will never over or under full the motor & won't have any spills.
I perfer my way then what Yamaha states to do, my way you have the tank full & the correct amount of oil in the motor at start up. http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa202/kevxtx/6a.jpg |
Thanks for the tip man. Picture says 1000 words.
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I did my first DIY drysump oil and filter change this weekend. My xt has new oil now.
Not tough job to do. A lot easier then it sounds. Moreover it was pleasure. Didn't have to change any of washers or Orings all seemed good. I didn't splash my front tire and brakes with oil but now I know why everyone mention this. Guys thank you for your help and tips. |
Well done mate.:toot:
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How about that dipstick?
I did my first XT660 oil+filter change today. It really seems like a procedure when I'm used to the "one bolt off, oil comes out, screw off filter, screw on new filter, bolt back, oil in" procedure.
Anyway everything went fine, I did get a small spill from the oil reservoir, even though I did compensate for the oil pressure with my oil pan. That oil comes out FAST. I did follow the instructions that came ith the bike and added 1,9 liters first (actually 2), run the engine a bit and then added 0,6 liters more. I ran the engine some more with some revs to see if there are any leaks. Then checked the oil level. The dipstick has just a small dabble on the end, not even hitting the grooved area. I added around 0.2 l more to get the dipstick wet. What happened, did I over fill, or does the engine actually take more than the mentioned 2.6 liters of oil (with filter change)? PS. also with new spark plug fitted, the engine sounds GRRREAT :) |
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You really need to drive bike at least 10 - 15 minutes for oil to circulate before checking your oil level. Mine, when cold shows 1cm of oil above minimum and when warm, dipstick show less than 1cm below maximum. On oil change I pour in 2,6l.
Take your bike for nice ride. Then, when you stop don't rev it, let it idle for 30 sec - 1 min, turn it off and check your oil. You can take out surplus oil with medicine syringe thru dipstick hole (this way you can measure extracted oil) or you can undo oil filter case drain bolt and let it drain a little. Don't drive it hard until you are sure oil level is OK. |
Followup for my oil situation
Hello,
I just checked the oil level, quite surprisingly it is still within the limits. A bit on the high side, but still ok. I'll get 0.1 liters out just to be sure, but it seems that 2.8l is still within the tolerances. Thanks for the quick feedback. |
can someone tell me what the thing that sits beside the toolkit is for?? it has OIL FILLER or something stamped on it. its just a piece of pressed steel, but i cant work out what it is for !! the bike is an 07 xtx by the way. cheers
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It's a tool for draining the oil out of the lower 17mm spanner size sump plug, the tool rests below the sump plug & the frame to stop the oil dripping on to the exhaust.
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very thoughtful of Mr Yamaha :eusa_clap: i have that problem with the xjr, so maybe i can use it there too. cheers Kev
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I took aluminum foil and cover my pipes. When I finished changing the oil I remembered there is tool for that.:101: Will use it next time.
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It might be worth trying this to avoid oil spillage from the front drain bolt during oil change:
Buy cheap sauce bottle, find drink bottle, whatever. Cut the bottom out of it. Place drain dish in the right place. Loosen drain bolt, but not so it leaks. Get socket handle, socket, and extension longer than the depth of the bottle. Place bottle over the drain spigot. Undo the drain bolt with the socket and extension inside the bottle. Make sure the bottle is pointed at the drain dish first. Hold the bottle in place until the oil is drained, and replace the bolt. This way you have control over where the oil goes, and it won't drool down onto the bashplate etc or spray onto the brakes. A suitable-diameter piece of clear plastic hose might be better than the bottle idea, but I haven't tried it yet. However, I do use a length of hose to fill the frame tube (get some a bit bigger than the filler hole, and cut a taper in it). Then screw it in the filler hole to seal it. I just add 1.7l from a squeeze bottle, start and run with the filler hose in place, then bring the oil fill up to a total of 2.6L which is spot on for my engine. |
Can anyone post a picture of that tool?
I saw it was mentioned on the owners manual, but never found it in the toolkit, so I assumed that my bike hadn't come with it (it's also missing the tool to adjust the preload on the shock, and I bought it new... hate stealerships). |
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I also changed the oil for the first time and i want to wrote here about it and to ask some questions.
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I read the service manual and remembered how was done this operation by the yamaha technician at a dealer service. I�m not sure he done it right as i�m not sure they are reading the service manual for every motorcycle. Or maybe they know better than is written in the books. Anyway one of the filter bolts is rusted. It seems that it wasn�t tightened properly. I think this periodic operation can be done by yourself if you know how. After draining the oil, changing the oil filter, tightening the bolts ( I used a torque wrench only for the 3 oil filter bolts 10 Nm � hoping that it will be fine with the rusted bolt cleaned as it was possible), i filled 1.9 L started the engine. Now the confusing part -oil quantity: At the dealer service were used 3 bottles of 1 litter 15w50 synthetic 4 stroke superbike oil, except 100 ml left in one bottle that i took home. I considered that i should fill from 1.9L to 2.9 which i did. Extract from service manual referring to Quantity Total amount 2.90 L (this is not mentioned in the owner manual) Without oil filter element replacement 2.50 L With oil filter element replacement 2.60 L The owner manual says 2.6L with oil filter replacement. I guess i was wrong filling 2.9 L so was the service before, considering the thread http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=14592 Now my questions: 1)Total amount 2.90L refers to what? 2) With oil filter change the total quantity filled is 2.6 L is correct? It matters if the bike is on the side stand, can vary this quantity,is draining all the oil from the engine in this position? 3) I used the bike with the old oil for aprox 3000 km, than couldn�t ride it for one year. The oil being to old i decided to change it by myself and not to run with that oil. Afther this oil change i ride it aprox 40 km. When riding (those 3000 km) nothing wrong happened or i don�t know if this overfilling affected somehow the engine? Thanks for reading my chapter to this thread and many thanks for the answers in advance.
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http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/6816/86801811.jpg http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/9554/66160717.jpg |
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If you want to remove all the oil from the motor once the oil has finished draining, put the side stand up & tilt the bike all the way to the right wait a few seconds then tilt the bike all the way to the left, that will remove the remainder 300ml of oil that was trapped when you drained the oil, I tilt my bike a few times to get the remainder of oil out.
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