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-   -   Oil service procedure ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=16450)

Kev 29-03-11 05:06

Well done mate.:toot:

jusu 04-04-11 22:44

How about that dipstick?
 
I did my first XT660 oil+filter change today. It really seems like a procedure when I'm used to the "one bolt off, oil comes out, screw off filter, screw on new filter, bolt back, oil in" procedure.

Anyway everything went fine, I did get a small spill from the oil reservoir, even though I did compensate for the oil pressure with my oil pan. That oil comes out FAST. I did follow the instructions that came ith the bike and added 1,9 liters first (actually 2), run the engine a bit and then added 0,6 liters more. I ran the engine some more with some revs to see if there are any leaks. Then checked the oil level. The dipstick has just a small dabble on the end, not even hitting the grooved area. I added around 0.2 l more to get the dipstick wet. What happened, did I over fill, or does the engine actually take more than the mentioned 2.6 liters of oil (with filter change)?

PS. also with new spark plug fitted, the engine sounds GRRREAT :)

Pleiades 04-04-11 23:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by jusu (Post 153028)
I did follow the instructions that came ith the bike and added 1,9 liters first (actually 2), run the engine a bit and then added 0,6 liters more. I ran the engine some more with some revs to see if there are any leaks. Then checked the oil level. The dipstick has just a small dabble on the end, not even hitting the grooved area. I added around 0.2 l more to get the dipstick wet. What happened, did I over fill, or does the engine actually take more than the mentioned 2.6 liters of oil (with filter change)?

You need to go for a proper run and get the motor warmed up fully and then let it idle for a minute or two before checking the true level on the dip stick, or it will read low.

aps 06-04-11 18:52

You really need to drive bike at least 10 - 15 minutes for oil to circulate before checking your oil level. Mine, when cold shows 1cm of oil above minimum and when warm, dipstick show less than 1cm below maximum. On oil change I pour in 2,6l.
Take your bike for nice ride. Then, when you stop don't rev it, let it idle for 30 sec - 1 min, turn it off and check your oil.

You can take out surplus oil with medicine syringe thru dipstick hole (this way you can measure extracted oil) or you can undo oil filter case drain bolt and let it drain a little. Don't drive it hard until you are sure oil level is OK.

jusu 06-04-11 23:04

Followup for my oil situation
 
Hello,

I just checked the oil level, quite surprisingly it is still within the limits. A bit on the high side, but still ok. I'll get 0.1 liters out just to be sure, but it seems that 2.8l is still within the tolerances.

Thanks for the quick feedback.

bigTrev 07-04-11 01:04

can someone tell me what the thing that sits beside the toolkit is for?? it has OIL FILLER or something stamped on it. its just a piece of pressed steel, but i cant work out what it is for !! the bike is an 07 xtx by the way. cheers

Kev 07-04-11 02:05

It's a tool for draining the oil out of the lower 17mm spanner size sump plug, the tool rests below the sump plug & the frame to stop the oil dripping on to the exhaust.

bigTrev 07-04-11 17:28

very thoughtful of Mr Yamaha :eusa_clap: i have that problem with the xjr, so maybe i can use it there too. cheers Kev

aps 07-04-11 18:32

I took aluminum foil and cover my pipes. When I finished changing the oil I remembered there is tool for that.:101: Will use it next time.

66T 09-04-11 04:40

It might be worth trying this to avoid oil spillage from the front drain bolt during oil change:

Buy cheap sauce bottle, find drink bottle, whatever. Cut the bottom out of it. Place drain dish in the right place.
Loosen drain bolt, but not so it leaks.
Get socket handle, socket, and extension longer than the depth of the bottle.
Place bottle over the drain spigot.
Undo the drain bolt with the socket and extension inside the bottle. Make sure the bottle is pointed at the drain dish first.
Hold the bottle in place until the oil is drained, and replace the bolt.

This way you have control over where the oil goes, and it won't drool down onto the bashplate etc or spray onto the brakes. A suitable-diameter piece of clear plastic hose might be better than the bottle idea, but I haven't tried it yet.

However, I do use a length of hose to fill the frame tube (get some a bit bigger than the filler hole, and cut a taper in it). Then screw it in the filler hole to seal it. I just add 1.7l from a squeeze bottle, start and run with the filler hose in place, then bring the oil fill up to a total of 2.6L which is spot on for my engine.


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