Stop your popping and banging - AIS pipe blocking
 

Hi I have looked at the link about blocking the pipe with a bolt,but I would like to know which pipe to do on the Tenere as the photo's are of the xtx. I have just fitted Leovince pipes and they back fire quite alot.

Thanks for any help
Mike

Don't forget you are a supporter & can ask these sort of question in the ASK KEV section anytime. Just make sure the bolt or blanking plug is tight in the pipe, this will get rid of the banging & popping at closed throttles

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a.../AISXT660Z.jpg

Hi Kev
Thats great I will remember about your section next time.

Cheers Mike

Hi Kev - what is to stop you just removing all of the AIS plumbing, and just blocking up the hole on the exhaust manifold? (and airbox of course).

Is there a sensor that expects some sort of signal? I presume there is a solenoid or some electrical gubbins that operates the AIS valve?

I believe it is possible to remove a similar set-up from the DRZ400S models...

Your advice is as ever appreciated,

Jenny xx

ps. I've just answered my own question - it seems there is a diagnostic/fault code for the AIS (no.D48) if the solenoid isn't working - I wonder if it is possible to fool the system and remove all the plumbing?

i blocked mine then put a cable tie on just a notch or two on for peice of mind

Hi
Did it this afternoon found M10 allen headed bolt is nice snug fit, has cured the backfire.

Cheers
Mike

There is nothing stopping you removing the whole AIS system & blocking the air box & exhaust port, just a bigger job then just blocking off one pipe.

If you just unplug the AIS plug the valve remains open all the time & defeats the object. If you join the two wires you will blow something in the ECU as this circuit is not fused & needs a consumer in series to complete the circuit to keep the light off.

Nice work Mike:sunny:

Scottoiler?
 

Hi gang, is this the pipe you bridge into to get the vacume for the Scottoiler? If so how do you get the oiler to work if this pipe is blocked?
Crusty

No it is not, you need to bridge the vacuum pipe on the throttle body.

Hi Kev,
i have followed the intructions posted on this forum for the install of the Scottoiler on the Tenere, (also same pics and instructions on the Scottoiler website). So i hope i have bridged into the right vacuume pipe, (well it all works and the bike stills runs!!!).
Only slight difference i did was to feed the clear tube through the hole in the swinging arm by the sprocket, then feed a long length of the black tube through the hole near the wheel then pull both out of the hole in the back of the swing arm box section and joined them there and then pulled the tubes back out of the holes to take up the slack. (hope that makes sense as it was so easy to do, not having to try and mess to get the black tube through the lower hole from the inside.)
Also i have mounted my spindle bracket on the inside of the swing arm between the arm and the wheel spacer, Will this cause the chain to wear as the wheel is now the width of the bracket further over? If you think it will cause an issue i was going to measure the width of the bracket then grind that amount off the outside of the wheel spacer to give the same overall spacings.
Thank you in advance for your time in answering my queries.
Mark

hi all,
today going to work the yellow engine light came on after about 30k's after doing the things below, and stayed on,engine is sweet, oil etc still fine,now is this due to me doing one of 2 things yesterday

1, i did a repair to the ais pipe as it had a slight ripe in it (the one that goes over the silver pipe behind the rad) all seems well,so after seeing kev's thread i took off the right side pipe(if sitting on bike)from the air box,put a bolt in etc etc as per his thread all fine..

2,removed the speedo cencer ready to fit a viper speedo (not yet fitted)by following the cable up to the white connector under the fuel tank,took apart,made water tight etc all fine,

if its one of the above how do i stop the light from stopping on?? or is it some thing wrong with the engine

kind regards mick

It works!
 

I bought my Ten just over a year ago and it ran great. Got an electrical fault and the local Yamaha garage fixed it under warranty. However, ever since then the bike spluttered and popped all the time when I released the throttle on revs under 3k.

I found this thread and plugged up the air pipe and voila! Bike runs great again. Thank you so much.

I can only guess that the original owner had blocked the pipe, the dealer had plugged the AIS back in again, and I now unplugged it.

Thanks for the advice. Diagram helped a treat too.

AIS Pipe
 

Hi there, i want to block my AIS Pipe and have looked at the diagram. However the only pipe i can see is about 15mm wide and has a silver clamp at the airbox end. This pipe goes into a trianguler shaped box. It does not seen to be the same as the diagram though. Is this the right one . I am looking at the bike from the rear brake side.

No, that is the breather (the triangular box is a baffle box)... the AIS hose (as I recall) is higher up, under the edge of the seat - it goes into a valve unit up by the cylinder head, which in turn has a metal tube that goes all the way to between the the exhaust headers... if you follow the metal tube back, you'll see the routing/correct hose.

Jx

PS. If it were me, I'd just remove the whole lot and plug the hole in the airbox with a rubber bung, and put an (alloy) plate over the hole in the exhaust header... (you can simply disconnect the valve from the wiring loom, there is no fault code or anything...)

I think someone should start producing a kit for this, it's not hard, and it is a much tidier solution?

(this was my solution, using the original as a template for my blanking plate):
http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/r...t/DSCF2833.jpg

AIS Pipe
 

Thankyou JMO , i will have another look. I didnt want to take the tank off if it was not needed.

If you just want to block the pipe, then you can take the side cover off the airbox (a few screws), and you'll see the hole for the pipe - it's basically the uppermost one in the top righthand corner (when sitting on the bike), about 10mm diameter...

Also, if you look between the frame and and the leading edge of the airbox (next to the top right hand screw), you'll see the pipe...

Jx

apart from the backfiring is there any advantage to the AIS mod ?

I'm sure Kev can give you the technical details, but as I understand it, by removing the AIS and the lambda sensor, you can set up the EFi with a Power Commander more accurately, as it is now constant, rather than extra air being dumped in on a closed throttle, and the ECU trying to adjust the fueling depending on what the lambda says...

Or something like that.

If you are not running a PC, I doubt there is much benefit, other than to reduce the popping as you say...

Jx

AIS Pipe
 

Managed to find it. Decided to clamp the pipe, and its much nicer sounding without the popping !. Thanks again for the replies JMO .

Here's a ready made blanking plate...


http://www.off-the-road.de/XT-660-Z-...it-XT-660.html


:)

.

Got some of them on my VW T4 Transporter to block off the egar valve, so the engine runs cleaner. Think they were about �3 off eBay.

So if I wanted to blank off the AIS I can just shove a suitably sized bolt into the pipe from the airbox, and this will cure the backfire???
The bolt cant get sucked anywhere ..right... and cause any damage
And it doesnt throw any weird issues with management systems on the bike.
Still unsure of whether I like the bangs or not on my newly de catted standard exhaust, they dont seem to bad once the bike is warmed up, but I havent had a proper day out on it yet to see if it annoys too much or not, Im thinking it may
Can someone confirm that if it was to be left to pop and bang, that it has no detrimental effect to the engine or running of the bike ??

Block off the AIS pipe & you will be fine no side affects with your aftermarket cans.

I had a Hinckley Bonneville with open cans, which popped a lot on the overrun. Entertaining for about a month, and then I got heartily sick of it.

Mine still back fires with every thin blocked off. One can destroyed flames out the rear.I like it cars back off mums grab there kids ,seagulls **** there selves.:pjrmoony_1JJHDG:

The results all depends on which ECU you have, 2004 to 2006 it will reduce the popping, 2007 onwards it will almost stop the popping depending on how rich your bike is at closed throttle.

Well spent the weekend fitting my kev mod and my new leo vince exhausts, and since the bike was in bits i blocked off asi thing aswell only to find my bloody givi racks wont fit with the leos , never mind , but no popping and banging though lol

Is this the correct pipe to block off for AIS as I've blocked it off and it's still popping and banging.

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...psf1ccfd82.jpg

A I S Pipe
 

No! That's the crankcase breather. Don't block that - crankcase pressure will increase with the risk of blown gaskets, O-rings and oil leaks etc.

The AIS pipe is on the same side, but higher up and travels over the top of the engine to the AIS valve.

Cheers think I've got it sorted now think this is right pipe going to have to check it next weekend now though.

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...pse0e55ea0.jpg

Yep, that's the one! :thumbsup:

Make sure you unblock the breather though before you ride the bike anymore; I wouldn't leave that till next weekend.

removing the whole AIS
 

So lets say I remove all the AIS gubbins like Kev said way earlier on on this thread, block the airbox and the exhaust manifold, disconnect all the pipework valve and then the electrical connection to the valve will is show a F1 light or sorts when the AIS is unplugged ?
Steve

No - fortunately someone at Yamaha guessed we wouldn't actually want the AIS fitted... so if you disconnect everything, don't worry - there is no warning light, everything runs just fine.

Go for it!

Jx

Can't speak for the 2013 models but all earlier models <2013 don't put the FI light on when the AIS system is completely removed.

If you have a 2013 model I would unplug the connector & go for a ride, the AIS valve will remain open so don't worry about the constant popping back. Let us know the results of the FI light.

kev will do and thanks fella.
Steve:thumbsup[1]:

Hi guys.
Just a thought. Could you install a 10mm brass ball valve and turn the "popping" on and off ?? I like it in traffic but It gets old on a long trip.

Interesting idea, no reason why it wouldn't work either. If you wanted to be really flashy, I guess you could even fit a solenoid operated valve and control it from a handlebar mounted switch! ;)

Genius !! although i might just go with a stealthy old school petrol tap look :-)

first ride today with the ais blocked and it seems smoother as well.

I like scaring people with the pops...

Mole grips or pipe grips squish the metal pipe flat.:newspaper: