OK; just to clarify, the small hole in the airbox (upper right of picture) is the one that needs something shoving down it to block it off to stop the popping?
If I wanted to go further and remove the whole AIS system, I should get a blanking plate (eg. of the kind sold by offtheroad), which fixes on the engine end and plug the hole in the airbox; so then all the AIS gubbins in-between could be removed? Or have I got that horribly wrong?
Thanks.
http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps7d8b593f.jpg

Yep, that's the hole. However, you'd be best to remove the hose from the outside of the airbox and block that securely. If you shove something the hole inside the airbox it's going to be more difficult to secure and if it does come loose there's a small chance it could find its way into the throttle body/motor.

No, you've got that horribly right! ;)

I want to get rid of the airbox sooooo I am going to put in a silicone intake pipe to a pod and position it inside the front wall of the airbox (front wall and battery box may stay) sharpen up the Dremel. Also the ais will be tapped so I can turn the popping on/off with a T just behind so that the crankcase breather sits just on the air filter (new 14mm) side of the tap.

And all this has to happen prior to my dyno tune on the 4th !!!! Pc3 tune. Grrrrrr !!!!

Result will be a cleaner looking airbox free bike. Tasty !!!

Do you need to take off the tank to get to the AIS pipe in order to block it? It looks very tight in there, especially with my chubby hands.
Cheers.

No, there's no need to move the tank.
If you wish to block the hole in the Airbox you can remove the R side of the Airbox and easily access the the hole.
Or you can remove the hose from the outside, held on by spring clip thing, poke the head of a 10mm allen headed bolt in, and place the threaded portion of the bolt in the Airbox hole from the outside, and replace the hose.
Long nose pliers and a torch all that's needed:occasion14:

Excellent! Thanks.

OK, finally had a chance to block the AIS pipe today. I can't actually see the prongs on the clip as they are facing in towards the bike rather than out towards me; so I can't get the long nose pliers in to undo the clip. Am I missing something obvious here? I really don't want to take off the tank if I can avoid it. Any advice? Don't worry about stating the obvious as I am really stuck at this point.
Cheers.

A Hoffmann type laboratory clamp is ideal for blocking the AIS pipe.

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6a737113.jpg

Can be fitted/removed in seconds without removing the pipe. Will not damage the pipe as they are designed for this exact purpose.

I first thought of using one as a temporary fix to shut of the AIS when on the dyno. Got mine from work, but they're only a couple of quid. Make sure you get one though that has a gate so it can be fitted over a connected pipe (some types are closed and need to be slid over the end of the pipe).

If you know/have a child at high school (or a teacher) they may be able to procure a "free" one for you... ;)

As always: thanks Peiades!

FYI - Here's a photo of the actual Hoffmann clamp I use fitted to the AIS pipe...

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/a...psb2a679f1.jpg

Pop tap :-). http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/24/utaqydab.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/24/e9ynehu8.jpg

Hi,
I just bought blanking plate and I want to mount on my Tenere. But I don't know if i can replace original gasket with blanking plate, or I must to remove complete ais mode. Can i do that without removing tank or radiator? I just tried screw it out, but i can remove only top bolt. How to remove lower one? Do you have some tips or tricks?

I have a tip / trick that most people use for Race bikes...

Instead of feeding the engine (airbox) with oily fumes from the breather tube - you let the AIS system eat them.
It's just a matter of rerouting a few pipes and hoses.
The AIS valve can probably be replaced with a 100ohm resistor to avoid the Yellow engine light, but i have to confirm that later. It always worked on any Honda / Suzuki / Kawasaki i tried it with. :)

Benefits: "Cleaner" air for the engine, lower weight (AIS system completely comes off), no popping, a non-sticky airbox and one can get rid of some of the hoses and free up Space for other stuff under the tank.

Downsides: Breather tube must be disconnected and AIS pipe has to be blocked while dyno tuning.
Having to do manual labor? :)

I know it's the XTZ section and i have a XTX, but it will still Work.

I would not recommend you doing this with a Cat, the oil vapour will be injected into the exhaust & can damaged the cat, all the systems that use this feature run a vapour oil trap to prevent fires from the oil vapour injection.

There are gains to be had if running a pump on the crankcase like the race bikes do, I did Dyno testing with this mod on my 990 SMR & it made no measureable gains on the Dynio from the AIS system connected to the engine breather, I would expect some gains on a worn motor where the vacume can help with ring seal.

Sorry. That's correct - but I dont have one on any of my bikes. :)

Are the VW type the same size as the XT?

Would simply disconnecting the wiring loom connector from Air Intake Solenoid have the same effect as blocking the pipe?

If the solenoid doesn't open (because it's electrically disconnected) air won't be fed into the exhaust; or does it "fail" in the open position?

The latter. If you just unplug the electrical connector, the AIS valve will stay open - all the time. So it will actually make the popping/backfiring situation worse.

Did mine the other day. A bit of turd of a job till you fiddle around enough to move the clamp into a position where you can squeeze it & pull the pipe off the airbox. No more popping noises, sounding like something we regret riding in our younger days :037:

Blocked mine off yesterday as I now have a de-catted exhaust which doesn't need it. No more popping.

Anyway, I used an M16 grub screw which I just wound down into the pipe at the air box end and then reconnected the pipe to the air box.

Why do Yamaha fit the AIS in the first place? What's it's purpose?

I think I'm correct in understanding that when the engine is on the over run with a closed throttle it is to let air through to weaken the fuel/air mixture. With the AIS opening there would be a rich mixture, so it's to balance the mixture??

Will there be any long term damage if the AIS is permantly removes either with the original lamba sensor and cat or without them by running an aftermarket exhaust? Surely Yamaha don't fit the whole assemble just to make the bike pop?

The AIS is purely an emission control device. Yamaha have to fit it to the XT660 to comply with exhaust emissions in the countries where it is exported.

The AIS has no influence whatsoever on the air/fuel ratio (mixture) as the air is inducted after the exhaust port - it never enters the engine, fuel or intake system at all. The purpose of the AIS is to provide additional oxygen (well air) to ignite any residual unburnt fuel left in the exhaust after the throttle is rapidly closed. The valve also opens when the ECU senses certain other running conditions such as at idle and on a cold start.

You are probably best advised to keep the AIS connected and functioning if you are running an exhaust with cats (whether stock or aftermarket). Catalysts can be destroyed quite easily by fuel vapur and unburnt hydrocarbons, which is another reason why Yamaha fit AIS to thier catalyst equipped bikes. If you are running aftermarket cans with no cats, then disconnecting the AIS will be fine.

The only side effect I've ever noticed about disconnecting/blocking the AIS (apart from the lack of back-firing) is the bike appears to take slightly longer to warm up in the morning. This is probably due to the fact that the AIS valve would normally be open for a cold start allowing air to ignite excess fuel in the exhaust port/header, which in turn helps provide some extra heat back into the head. Also a hot exhaust will flow gas better than a cold one.

that's answered my questions Pleiades, it all makes sense, good answer, many thanks

Bit late to join the thread-

I've blocked my pipe and am certain its the correct one. However I still get a very quick succession pop whilst slowing down with the throttle open just a tad. Also could have just been a cold engine as I didn't warm up before I took off at all, but it felt quite flat at certain low rev ranges, any ideas?

Can you post a photo of the pipe you've blocked? You might have the wrong pipe - it's happened before! ;) Also it might not be completely blocked?

There's a clue in the bit I've underlined as to the "flat" feeling. On a cold start the AIS valve is fixed open to help speed up engine/exhaust/cat warm-up times. I found that with the AIS blocked the bike tended to take a little longer to warm up and felt a little more sluggish for longer until up to temp.

How did the "fuel tap" mod turn out?
 

Looking to block the ais pipe on my 2011 660 Tenere. What size is the hose in mm and what kind of ball tap did you fit? It seems pretty cramped in there. Looks really good however, and practical for those roadside emissions controls.

Hello

I did not fully read the post and not closed the correct tube .

I blocked that tube and have a little oil on all sides. Drove so for 3 days .

and I have become like the original and the bike pulls no oil. You will have caused a serious problem?

Do I have to look if something was wrong ?

Hi Guys,


here is a very easy and cheap solution for the XT660Z Tenere:


XT660Z Tenere (AIS) Air injection System, exhaust popping fix



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2mTVTv5Jl4&app=desktop