I should get my XT660R 'Dakar' this weekend (for what the 'Dakar' version is, see: http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=5541)
I'm going to ride this bike around Syria for a month in April, and will need to change some stuff. I will not be doing any heavy duty offroading, I think it will be mostly dirt tracks with some no-track, but nothing extreme.
However, I've only ever ridden on tarmac. And not a lot either, as I only passed my driving test a month ago. So I could use some advice on what upgrades could be a good idea, or perhaps if some of the stuff I'm planning is a really bad idea.
Syria = leaded petrol, so I'll need exhausts without a cat. Most exhausts I come across seem to advertise that they're LOUD, which I don't want at all. A nice sound is always cool, but I have no desire to shatter eardrums.
I saw that the OTR 2-1 system is street legal in Germany, so that can't be too bad. I like the looks, and the extra ground clearance is never bad.
So for the exhaust:
OTR-SR 2in1 exhaust system, titanium (version without fitting for lambda sensor, as it does not like lead either)
I've already bought the tank Paul666 was selling to fill up the empty space where the second exhaust used to be
OTR 2in1 linkage pipe w/o catalytic converter
This gives me the option to replace the cat when I'm using the bike after my trip.

From what I understand from the posts in the tech section I need something to adjust fueling properly after changing exhausts, and a Power Commander is the best option. Should also help in case of surging:
Power Commander III
O2 Eliminator

Yamaha sumpguard is apparently not much good, and it's nice to use the extra ground clearance from the 2-1 pipes:
OTR Sump guard for 2in1

Centre stand that fits with that:
SW Motech centre stand

These are my basic upgrades. There are some things I have questions about though. Is it worth it getting a different air filter if I'm going to be riding around in the dust most of the time anyway? Does something like a DNA filter increase noise? The possible power increase does look nice...
I was thinking about removing the snorkel, and perhaps doing a Kev airbox mod, but perhaps this increases the chances of getting dust and sand in the airbox? (sorry if these are stupid questions, but the last time I did something with an engine was clean the spark plug on my Peugot moped... about 15 years ago)
Do different grips really help against vibrations? Any recomendations?
I'm a tad on the heavy side (120 kilos geared up), and will be carrying a maximum of about 40 kilos on top of that (this includes the rack and alu cases). Will the suspension be good enough? I'm not looking for racing perfomance here, I'll be taking it really easy. But I do want to make sure the suspension can at least handle the weight safely.
If you got this far, thanks for your patience in reading to the end! I realize these are a lot of questions, and I have spent quite some time reading all the posts on the forum to get the ideas I have now. I just want to make sure I'm not making some stupid mistakes before I hand over my cash.
Any suggestions are welcome!

Hey ArtVark.

I'll give it a go allthough you should not take my suggestions/ideas as the end-all be-all to your questions. Ask around (like you're doing) and get an idea of what might work for you the best.

I've just completed a trip from Denmark to Capetown (west coast) on my R and am actually writing this while in Capetown. So I've experienced a fair bit of the terrain you're about to venture into.

1. Catalyst free cans is widely regarded as a must. I believe it is due to the theoretical possebility that your catalysts might otherwise clog up and stuff the exhaust system completely. When I say "theoretical" it is because I have not heard accounts of this actually happening. But better safe than sorry. I personally went for the Arrow dual cans. The "low" groundclearence has never been a problem for me, but as you say, it can never hurt. And I agree with that completely. The reason I did not go for the 2in1 is because I wanted to save myself the money and trouble of after fitting a powercommander. Took me 10-15 mintues to both remove the old cans, and fit the new ones. Easy peasy. But I wont discourage you from going with the 2in1 option. Just make sure you know what it entails. Both money and time wise.

2. The lambda probe is not a problem with regards to functioning on leaded fuel. I simply left mine as it was and just went for it. No doubt, it has stopped functioning by now, but the onboard ECU on the bike handles this situation by ensuring a rich enough mixture so as not to damage the engine. You may get a bit of "farting" when motor-breaking down inclinations, but it's nothing to worry about. Prior to leaving, I disconnected the lambda (not the actual lambda. Just the electric plug) and I'm not even sure my mileage went down even one kilometer. But again, if you plan to go for the 2in1 solution, you needen't worry about this stuff.

3. Centerstand is an absolute must if you are traveling alone. If you travel with others, get help to lift the bike up and rest the bashplate on one of your panniers.Trust me...it works . But this solution is quite impossible if you are alone. And even when traveling with others, you often find yourself alone. Go with the centerstand. Make very sure that the centerstand you have in mind, does not conflict with the bashplate.

4. From the picture in your other post, the handlebars look good and protected. Be sure that they are actuall crashbars and not just bush-bashers (flimsy donkey ear plastic things that you can bend with your fingers). I've dropped my bike numerous times, and never broken either clutch or brake handle due to having my handle crashbars. A rider I traveled with for quite a while (on an old Honda XL 600) broke both his clutch and his brake lever. The clutch lever broke when we were taking a rest and he rested himself against the bike and it fell over. Nothing dramatic, but it broke the lever. Luckily he had a spare. But he didn't have a spare brake lever, so when that broke, he had to complete the rest of the way without it (there was a stump left so he could actually brake. But not too well).

5. Bashplate. A must must must! Especially if you do not get the 2in1 and go with the standard underfitted exhaust like I did. Try and get a realy wide one so that it also protects the waterpump on your right hand side.

6. Custom grips. In my oppinion, that discussion is academic at best.

7. Shocks. I weigh around 100 kg and lets say 110kg fully geared. You should have no problems at all. First order of business though, is to tighten up your spring to the fullest (use the tool that comes with your R, under the seat). So much easier to park the bike on uneaven surfaces (less wobbling) and also makes your centershock travel/work less, when going on bumpy sections.

8. I'd like to comment on your tank, but not sure what you have. I have the OTR carbon fibre one. And apart from a few problems I had in Mauritania I am happy with it. Do you have a pic of it?

9. I used the regular paper airfilter. You can actually clean this sufficiently by just slapping them onto the palm of your hand. But if you can get your hands on the "spungy" ones (dunno what they are called), I'd go for those. They might be easier to clean completely. I travelled through the Sahara and most of Mali (including Timbuktu). Allthough I did change the filter prior to Timbuktu, the original one could easily have gone for the rest of the trip with a few slaps on the hand. Realy.


Did I miss anything?

I could propably give you a few good ideas as to the rest of your equipment (bike stuff as well as none bike stuff). Feel free to ask away. For the next couple of days I'll be "grounded" in Capetown and should be able to get back to you fairly quickly.

Best regards

Torsten


PS: Welcome to XT660.com

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Hi ton i had the Metal Mule 2 in 1 exhaust fitted, �350 agaisnt ��� for OTR, you will find most after market exhausts are a fair bit louder than std even with baffles in place, not so much when running, but popping on the over run!! I had satisfactory fueling with the Kev Mod but a PC is a better option. Check out www.bikehigh.com

The hepco and becker frames are strong enougth! in a hard crash if the frames are too solid something has to give, rather the frames than the sub frame! Have read on other forums the small problem with hepco and becker boxes are the mounting system they use to fix the boxes to the frames. Its a good quick release system but can become unrepairably mangled in a hard crash. Would keep the frames but swap your box mounts if possible to Touratech box mounting 'pucks' which are available separately and are more robust.
Then again if you dont plan to crash too hard....

Ps drawings done, i just got to work out my scanner!

Just to be clear; I did not use the 2in1 solution. My exhaust setup is the same as original with two cans. Albeit the Arrow cans are catalyst free. Made no mods or adjustments to the fueling system what so ever. They are not particularly louder. Just a deeper rumbling sound, and the occasional fart every once in a while. If you go for a 2in1 solution you will likely need a powercommander installed. Check with Kev as I am not completely sure about this.

With regards to the H&B system, my (almost) namesake at OTR is half right. The rack itself is excellent and easy to fit. I've had no problems with it, allthough you should remember to Locktite the screws when you fit the rack. I neglected to do that and it was blind luck that I noticed two of the screws come lose. Could have lost the whole dang thing. Anyway, Paul666 beat me to it; the pannier locks are easy to use but flimsy in a crash. I lost the first lock in my crash at Timbuktu. This was a relatively high speed crash, and so somethings gotta give. Tore the right pannier right off as I hit the ground. On the other hand this could be a blessing in disguise. Had the locks held, it could have done irepairable damage to the rack or even the sub-frame. Now, when I say locks broke, I don't mean the fitting clamps on the frame. Just the key lock that you twist for the quick release system. This means that it was a doddle to fit the panniers back on. The only consequense was that I could no longer lock my pannier to the frame with a key. I used a jubilee clip to hold the clamp in place and it still holds. The places you will be going, a screwed on jubilee clip is just as safe as a flimsy aluminium lock. If not safer.

Some people swear by the panniers made by Metal Mule and say that the frame will break before the panniers. Not sure if this is true, but if it is, it may not even be a good thing as Paul666 pointed out. But back on topic; the rack itself is sturdy and will not fail you. The choice of panniers is a personal one but even with the flimsy locks, I'd still recommend H&B panniers. If I have to say something negative about them, it is the fact that the rack is very wide. There's quite a large gap between the exhausts (remember I have two exhaust) and the inside of the rack. I'd say 7cm or something. This makes you unnecessary wide in traffic. I'm not sure how to go about trimming the rack so it fits more snuggly. But it doesn't take long to get used to that you are a bit wider than normaly.

Dirtracks mileage: With a malfunctioning lambda probe my mileage might give you the wrong impression. But on dirt tracks and bad tar, I'd usually get around 20 km/l. On Good tar road I'd get 25 and above. Not sure what the petrol quality will be like where you are going, but in Mauritania I went as low as 18 due to dodgy fuel. Just keep that in mind. In Dogon country in Mali, I rarely got out of second gear. Didn't even bother to calculate my mileage for those days. No doubt it was poor.

Lubrication: Nope, you read it right. Ran it dry. Well, that's not entirely true. I used some teflon spray that Thorsten at OTR recommended. It leaves the chain completely dry. You actually have to clean your chain in petrol before applying it. If riding in very dirty conditions (ie. sand) and your chain is well greased, it will create a kind of grinding paste and wear your sprocket extremely. The other biker I had the company of, greased his chain diligently. He did the same route (more or less) as me, and changed his rear sprocket halfway through. I met him close to Cape Agulhas and his second rear sprocket was completely shot (was actually amazed that he'd not cracked a tooth). My rear sprocket looks almost new. It's still got flat teeth at the end, and eventhough I've done about 22000 km on it I am absolutely certain that it will last me at least another 5-8 thousand. Had I known what I know today, I would not have brought an extra sprocket set. But......(there's always a but, isnt there?)...

The chain suffers from lack of grease and does not benefit as much as the sprockets from using teflon. At least that's my theory. Because as it happens my chain started to click and clank upon acceleration somewhere around 15000 km's. Think the bearings in one or two of the links simply gave in. In all fairness it should be said that I did not use the teflon coating as often as the can prescribes I should. So that could be the reason for my chains demise. I actually changed it today. No biggie, and it's easy enough to do if you have a chain breaker. I have for the past 3-4 weeks used grease in order to reduce the clicking (too lazy to change the chain) and it has worked for a while. But the result is clearly read on the rear sprocket. It has started to wear on the sides and has propably taken more damage in the past 3-4 weeks than it has on the entire trip up to that. All in all I give the teflon spray a big thumbs up.

A scot oiler may be a good compromize between the thick sticky grease, and the almost completely dry teflon, which by the way is quite pricy (but worth every penny if you ask me). The scot oiler may offer the lubrication for both chain and sprocket, without creating the "grinding paste" that grease does.


And yeah, I'll be flying back home some time after the weekend when I get the paperwork sorted.

Regarding your PC and general fueling issues, I refer you with great confidense to Kev. He realy knows his stuff. As do a bunch of other guys in this forum. Ask away. I've found this forum to be a plethora of information that was a great help for me when I planned my trip. I hope it will be for you too.

Best regards

Torsten
L

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PS:

I'll try and take some photos of what it is that actually breaks and how to repair it. Quite hard to explain. If I'm lucky, I'll have them up here in this thread by tomorrow.

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From reading most of this thread i think most of your questions are answered, but the thing i noticed was most people where talking about your bike, and not you as a rider. I grew up with a scrambler so know how its feels to ride a bike off road, but to go straight from tarmac onto off roading is very hard as they are just like opposites.

But just a few tips if you dont plan on taking any off roading lessons before you go.

Take your time, go alot slower as it will take you alot longer to react to something happening than it would if you where on tarmac. Braking distances will be massively increased and your front brake should only ever be used very lightly or your lock the front wheel and fall off (or cause bad stains in your underwear)

Your bike will move around under you as rocks, stones etc etc will try and move the bike off line, dont try and resist it just go with the flow and taking it slowly will help. If you resist it your body will become like a rigid block and you will tence up and become uncomfortable making your bike very uncontrolable

Dont grip the hand bars as if your holding onto the last pint of your life, they will not go anywhere and if you loosen your grip a bit it allows you to feel alot more of what the bike is doing and allows your to move the bike to where you want to go easier.

If doing proper type off roading stand up on the pegs and keep your knees slightly bent and elbows pointing out at right angles from the bike. This will allow your knees to take some of the bums the suspension cant and allow your arms to push and pull on the bars easier. Also this allows your bike to move around under your slighter better.

Always ride with the proper gear on, common sense i know but the amount of stories and people i have seen saying they where too warm so took there gloves off, boots etc and they wrecked there themselves is just unreal.

And dont forget to enjoy the trip dont force your self to do things you dont want to do, i no you may like the challegene of doing something and completing it but if it near kills you doing it i think that just takes the fun out of it.

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Plough on

Guys, I can't think you enough for all this information.
Sounds like the H&B rack is OK, I will check out the Touratech mounting pucks though.
Teflon spray eh? Sounds high-tech... Sucker for high-tech, I'll ask Thorsten about it.
Paul, I had heard something about the Metal Mule exhausts, I'll take a look. It is a large price difference indeed. They don't mention the catalyser... I'll mail them and find out what the deal is with that.

Maxwel, thanks for those tips as well. I was planning to do some off road training, but because everything was unsure until the beginning of this week I did not get round to booking today. The training is full now.... Bummer.
I'll be sure to take things very easy. I'm getting in as many kilometers as I can right now, even highway experience is at least some kind of experience. It will be very different than riding my 1985 XJ900! (do love that beasty too though, it's got a certain 'class' )

Ok, here are the pics as promised.

We'll be looking at my right pannier.

On a sidenote, notice the big gap between the inside of the pannier and the exhaust. Could fit more snuggly and reduce your width considerable. Same goes for the left side. Anyway.....

First picture is full view of the pannier as seen from the back of the bike. The lock that breaks (or has a tendensy to do so when falling over) is at the bottom left side of the pic where you see the jubilee clip.





Second pic is of the inside of the lock that is broken. The slit that holds the lock in place is fine. The actual locking mechanism however is sheared. Not sure if you can see that.





The next picture I have left the "hooking" mechanism open. This is the "hook" that grasps around the rack.




Next one, is after I have "hooked" the clamp to the rack, but left the locking mechanism open. Normally functioning, you will be pushing the mechanism into the pannier lock, and twist the key for safe locking. The locking does not hold the pannier itself. But if you open the lock the whole clamp will open up and you can release the pannier from the rack. This is the situation you want to avoid (the clamp opening up on it's own). To fit the jubilee clip, you must open the clip up completely and wrap it around the pannier fittings. The jubilee clip shown is a bit bent. Next step shows why.




The jubilee clip itself cannot apply enought pressure on the clamp to hold it in place. You can use a small rock (no joke. It works quite well) or a piece of rubbish metal like I did in the last pic. Tighten the jubilee clip, thus pressing it onto the clamp and closing it. Now the clamp is held in place, and will not open up unless you undscrew the jubilee clip. If you do need to remove your panniers (for instance while camping) a screwdriver and a few seconds is all it takes to release the clamp. There....all done.






You will propably notice that the clamp is not completely closed. This is due to the lock inside obstructing a full close. But it's closed enough to keep the clamp tight and on your rack without falling of.

The rack and the clamp itself did not suffer damage. Had the lock been extra strong and not broken, I wonder what would have broken in its place. As I said before, the weak lock could be a blessing in disguise.

Hope this made my previous explanation a bit clearer. Questions? Just shoot.

Best regards

Torsten


PS: Forgive the non technical words as clamp and hook. I'm the sort of guy that still uses words like "thingy" and "twirly bit" in my technical vocabulary. Hope you understood it none the less .

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