While replacing chain, sprockets and rear disk break rotor, I find it too hard to unscrew the front sprocket. Apart from the washer that I unfolded, how do I unscrew this? Clockwise or counterclockwise?????

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counterclockwise

thanks cca, I did try this way with no luck. It was so hard that the idea of it being the other way crossed my mind.
I guess I need an air impact wrench gun to do it.
Many thanks again mate

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Each time I change my sprockets & works for me.....put front wheel against a wall,select top gear (too much engine compression in first etc) and with someone pressing on rear brake pedal it should come off OK.

I use my 32m socket with a short extension bar and loosen same off.

Other than that,an impact driver gun will loosen it off at any local garage for a fiver?




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I normally use a small 20cm socket wrench but when that is not enough (like removing the wheels of the car after a winter on salty roads) i have about a meter of 1" pipe that fits on top of it. I've actually cracked a quality 17mm socket with that (and then took a socket from impact wrench enstead to get the damn wheel off).

When i replaced the chain kit a week ago i again had to find the long pipe and my 14 year old son had to almost stand with all his weight on the brake pedal or the rear brake would slip...

It had been there since it left the factory in 2011 and the nut had some surface rust.

The new one was tightened with a torque wrench, but I should probably have replaced the nut. I'll do that next time.

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2011 Yamaha XT660Z ABS T�n�r�.

• Puig +8cm dark screen, Garmin Zumo 220, Scottoiler eSystem v2
• Barkbusters Storm with external weights, Noname 30mm bar risers & EzMoto alu. levers
• Kev's O2 Controller, Mccoi stepless controller with Hein Gericke heated grips
• TT +4cm seat, Pivot Pegs, Altech stainless sprocket cover

Thank you all for your advice mates!

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If you have some old chain, cut one piece, wrap around sprocket and other side around closest part of frame and fix it there temporary. Protect that part of frame with some rubber first. Long bar and job done, without stressing brake or gears.

I appreciate the smart tip mate! Thanks a lot!

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I agree that there is no need to stress the gears - but the disc, rear axle chains and sprockets should easily copy with it. I prefer the long bar over hammering it with an impact wrench even trough i have one and a compressor to drive it in the shed.

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2011 Yamaha XT660Z ABS T�n�r�.

• Puig +8cm dark screen, Garmin Zumo 220, Scottoiler eSystem v2
• Barkbusters Storm with external weights, Noname 30mm bar risers & EzMoto alu. levers
• Kev's O2 Controller, Mccoi stepless controller with Hein Gericke heated grips
• TT +4cm seat, Pivot Pegs, Altech stainless sprocket cover

i just jammed a pry bar between the rear sprocket and the swingarm and put a thick rubber mat to protect the swingarm offcourse. and reverse orde to tighten the front nut again.
you do this with the "old" sprocket still mounted ;-)
different methods work, just find what suits you best according to what tools you have lying around.