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I've owned my Z for 30,000 miles and never suffered from turbulence until I bought.....a Caberg Tourmax modular, peaked lid.
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Anything over 60 mph caused the well documented blurred vision unless I held the peak.

I have Arai, Shoei, standard, full face lids and a Bell open face ( with a peak ) and also an HJC MX peaked helmet. I've never had problems before.

Standing on the footrests at 70 mph stopped the buzz on the Caberg. I think the Caberg's peak is too flimsy since it does not connect to the shell in the upper middle of the helmet and is merely bridged from left to right side hinges. I will re-inforce its peak but I thought I'd kill a couple of hours closing the fork tunnel draught that so many have found to be the culprit of turbulence under a peaked helmet.

Personally, I think turbulence and buffeting are two separate things. I've been 'buffeted' on a naked bike on the Continent at big speeds which could be cured by a fairing and I've experienced turbulence caused by varying screen heights and widths. My FJR1300 and STX 1300 both could create turbulence and 'vacuums' by electronically adjusting the screen height too much on the move but once set at the correct height it was like riding behind double glazing.



I decided to block the upper rear fork tunnel area with this pile of Blue Peter trinkets..

Cardboard templates, foam sponge and super glue.
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I used 30mm foam and vinyl, the same stuff used for seat covers. This stuff superglues super fast
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Once my vinyl foam pasty was made up I used self adhesive velcro around its edges.
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Then placed the opposite part of the velcro to the pasty pad
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Then squeezed the pasty pad into the fork tunnel just above the dip stick and removed the backing off the velcro which leaves this.....
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I then made sure the velcro was nicely flat on the tank and replace the pad. This is the final look when both are done.
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Because the pads are foam filled they do not hinder steering movement and they return to their original form when the bars are straight. The pads are just behind the fork legs in the straight position too. Here's a pic of full lock.
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So...Part 2 came along because I had time and thought it would be a bit of man-cave time.

I decided to seal off the front part of the fork tunnel too. (I've seen this as a factory fit on some big trailies). Time for cardboard again.

The shape of this cut-out was determined (by trial an error) so that the front edges cleared the inside of the tank on lock-2-lock and the rear edges didn't hit the radiator.

The tow hitch has to be inverted too.
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Rough shape
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by

Actual sizes ....(so far - may need some trimming later)........
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Sketch transposed on to masking tape which is stuck on perspex sheet.
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The holes for the tow eye fasteners are 8mm. I then used a Dremel and its cutting wheel and cut through the masking tape, then removed the tape and perspex protective film to get this...
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The entire fork tube tunnel is now closed and the buffeting has massively reduced. There is no 'vacuum' effect either.

Other info:

I'm 6 foot tall and the bike is fitted with a standard height screen and standard seat.

I'm going to remake the perspex sheet out of 4mm thick stuff as this 'prototype' is only 2mm and is a bit flimsy and may - will crack around the fixing holes. I'm also going to allow better spacing for my brake lines.

I appreciate some guys have a high fender and also original brake fittings but I'm sure a cardboard template, based on the above, could be morphed in to what is needed.

The advantage for me is that it's all removable in seconds. It remains to be seen how durable it all is.

As for the Tourmax........well it's very comfortable except for the flimsy peak which comes off to make a 'normal' helmet. Also its chin strap is a bit gimmicky plus the internals of the chin bar are really close to your face.

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I have a lot of growing up to do. I realized that the other day inside my fort.