Alright guys,

I adjusted the chain some times now on the XT660Z. It is quite easy and done it many times, however I used to drive a ninja , on this bike the play upwards and downwards to check was 25mm ish. Now with the XT660Z they say 5 0mm in my Haynes manual. I adjust it but when I want to check if it is fine, I can't.

I take the middle point ( lowest point ) between the front and rear sprocket. I push the chain down fully and start measurement. I pull it up and measure the distance. I then adjust it to normally around 50 mm max. Now everytime I adjust I cannot measure it properly because the chain hits my swing arm. So how do you guys measure ? 50 mm play is too much to actually check for me, so I just do it on sight ( don't let it hang to tight or to lose and check with running it on a stand manually ).

thanks !

Im assuming you are refering to a XT660?..The owners manual states the drive chain slack is between 40mm-55mm..

Yes and againe I regulate it on 50 mm It is a mistyping I'm afraid to say. So I arrange it on 50 mm and then I can still not check if it is OK since when I push the chain up it hits the swingarm everytime .. so How to regulate it then ?

Are you adjusting the chain when its on the side stand?..

Does that make a difference? I always use my bike lift I'd never thought about it being different on the side stand.

I adopted Darkhelmets method of chain adjustment which works very well to help get the feel of it. Helps if you have a centre stand or axle stands under the footpegs to support the bike with the rear wheel off the ground though.
What you do is take the bolt out of the dogbones to the swingarm, so can move freely up & down, then support the swingarm preferably with a jack. Then raise it until the centre of the front sprocket, swingarm pivot bolt , & rear axle are all in a alignment. Check that the chain has a small amount of play, also turn the wheel checking for tight spots.
It is a bit of a performance so only mainly do it if I've just had the wheel off for a tyre or something & my tools are out all over the floor anyway.

Desert Racer, That is actually the best way of doing it. I presume any variation of that method will work as long as one can get the wheel axle, swing arm pivot and front sprocket bolt lined up. Like pulling the swing arm up towards the frame with a tie down ratchet? Also important to spin the wheel and allow for the shortest part of the chain.
The OP still doesn't have an answer to his question and I agree with him, it's not really practical to measure the slack to 50mm and hitting the swing arm before you get to 50mm. I normally just adjust it until it hits the swing arm easily.

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2014 XT660Z - Barrett pipe, DNA stage1.5, Barkbuster hand guards and handlebars, Pivot pegs, Teknik suspension, Guard-it engine protector combo, B&B rear rack, Trax topbox.

You will find with the correct slack the chain will contact the underside of the swingarm with not weight on the wheel.

The best way is, as mentioned, to get a baseline setting with the linkage bones disconnected and axle in line with output shaft. You only have to do this once.

Prop the back wheel in that position and set the chain to about 5mm slack. Connect the linkage bones back up and now measure, or get a 'feel' for, the slack in which ever position you normally adjust your chain (on side stand, centre stand, paddock stand etc.) Make a note of this slack as a reference point for future adjustments.

Also remember a 'hot' chain after a ride will always be slightly looser than a cold one.

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Anything visual for me to use here ?
I currentily use a poaddock stand which lifts up under the swingarm left and ride side right at the adjusters ... it lifts the wheel from the ground and puts the bike straight forward , should that do it or even higher ???

You will not be able to compress the suspension enough to get the axle in line with the output shaft to check the initial chain tension at its tightest point. The suspension has to be disconnected from the swingarm – the linkage arm/swingarm bolt needs removing. However, you could use a ratchet strap over the seat between two ground anchor points (like on a ferry) to pull the suspension down and get everything in line, but it’s a lot easier and less likely to go pear-shaped if you just remove the linkage arm bolt.

You won’t be able to use a paddock stand off the rear axle to support the bike if you’re going to remove the dog bones as you need to take all the weight off the rear end. Support the bike under the engine using wood and a jack or axle stands if you haven’t got a bike lift or centre stand.

Get everything lined up like this (tightest point of chain run) and measure/adjust your initial slack to work from...



Support it something along the lines of this...



or this if you're more adventurous...

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