Hello, having some problems with the electronics, read below!

this fuse keeps popping on me, the small front light that goes on when turning the ignition on wont go on(front high and low bean do work when bike runs) the backlight doesn't work (Brake light does) and the indicators dont work.

the fuse in the white box is popping, I put in a reserve and it popped straight away. I'm not very handy with electronics, does someone know the problem that accurs here? Thanks in advance!

Bart

You've got a short to ground somewhere in the sidelight/indicator circuit which is supplied via that fuse.

You will need to trace all the wiring related to those circuits and look for, most likely, a cable somewhere with its insulation worn through. If you have a multimeter to hand (?) you can check to see which of the supply connections at each lamp is grounded.

It could also be other things such as: faulty handlebar switch gear, faulty indicator relay, loose bulb in it holder, bulb blown in such a way to cause a short... The list is pretty extensive.

Visually check the wiring first. You may need to remove the tank as most wiring problems tend to be out of sight.

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Thank you PLeiades, will look into that!

Well Pleiades, It works fine again, thanks for the help.. it was me being a dummy. I thought it wouldn't matter if I kept the little front light disconnected, because I wasn't sure how the wiring was(HAH NOOB!). This was the reason why the indicators and backlight didnt work. Thank you for your help again, Greetings from the Netherlands!

I washed my bike yesterday after a trip the weekend, and now the 20 amp fuse for the head light keeps on popping as well
Frustrated, maybe some water somewhere

If I press the pass button, it works, but as soon as I start the bike, poof goes the fuse

Took out low beam globe and everything else works

On close inspection, the low beam globe is fused

Can that be the problem?

One of the most common reasons a headlamp fuse blows is a failed bulb. It doesn't always happen when a bulb fails, but the filament can sometimes break (or melt) in such a way that it shorts to earth and allows 20A+ of current to flow. Most of the time this will only happen for a slit second (enough to blow the fuse), but occasionally (more by chance than anything else) the dead bulb stays shorted and then there is no point replacing the fuse until the defective bulb is replaced.

Replace the bulb, then the fuse and you should be good to go. Don't try changing the fuse and then the bulb, or you'll just blow you fuse again as soon as the engine is started.

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Thanks, that's the plan for tomorrow
Think I might then just as well get brighter bulbs

90/130w

It's a single filament H7 bulb on the Z, so a 100W replacement is probably you only 'high power' option. A 130W H7 will draw too much current, especially if in dip and main and both end up on together (eg. using the pass switch or if you've done the mod so main stays on with dip). Although (bizarrely) the fuse is 20A, the the main supply wire (for both lamps) is 0.30 gauge/1 mm sq. which is rated at 16.5A. This should always be considered you're theoretical limit of maximum current.

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Thanks, so better to stay with standard bulbs, 55W