Hi All

I'd REALLY appreciate some help on what mods to make to my XT660z - I have maybe two days to sort this bike (background in my newbie intro but repeated at the end of this thread).

My bike has 8,000kms on it and I will get the 10,000km service done this week. I am then going to be riding a further 16,000kms without easy access to spares so need to carry what I need.

I need to decide:
1. What do I change now pre-emptively?
2. What should I carry with me?
3. What mods do I NEED to make (I only have a day or so, hence 'nice to haves' are out)?

It would be really helpful to understand the realistic lifespan of consumables (brake pads, chain and sprockets, spark plug etc)

My immediate thinking is:
- fit new chain and sprockets now if available and just carry a link
- pads look ok but maybe change out anyway
- fit Heidenau K60 scout tyres (I have a front on my written off KLR with 50kms on it - general view is these will go 18,000kms on most bikes - ok for the XTz?)
- do what with the suspension???? (on my KLR I fitted stiffer springs front and rear - I am about 100kgs and will have max 20kgs of kit with me)
- fit a proper bash plate (it has crash bars but the original plastic bash plate)
- fit a chain oiler (can take off the KLR - new Cobra oiler was fitted)

I am carrying tubes and levers - what's the story on tyre charges - is bead breaking on this bike ok or a nightmare I need to prepare for?

Do I need to be worrying about regulator/rectifier issues?

Cush drive?

I am not a great mechanic in either knowledge of execution so please treat me gently :-)

I would be massively grateful if anyone is able to guide me through this.

Thanks, Andy

MY BACKGROUND

I was due to leave Cape Town yesterday on a 3 month Cape to Cairo trip on my KLR650. Unfortunately I was taken out by a car on Thursday night and the KLR was written off (footage on my trip blog here: http://wp.me/p5aiwQ-7l

I shook hands and a 2014 XT660z yesterday (details here: http://www.gumtree.co.za/a-motorcycl...70910171044109 http://wp.me/p5aiwQ-7l).

I should pick the bike up later this week and will have a day or two max to prep it before I have to leave (I have a fixed commitment in Zimbabwe on 14 June so need to leave by Sunday 12 June at the latest).

Hi Andy, you're about to get a HUGE amount of technical replies but honestly... the first thing is change the front mudguard. A tyre hugger will not get you through Africa. I rode an XT for 3,000kms down there last year and really, the bike out of the box is ready to go (except the above)... Good luck matey!

Take a spare regulator/rectifier! The bike is pretty handy as it is, but if the reg/rec goes you'll be toast

Fresh chain set and brake pads (keep the old ones at home), lubricate the steering bearings. Hand guards, spare air and oil filter, inner tube mode, check your tool tube (do you have everything for removing front/back wheel or changing oil...), duct tape, zip ties, charging socket... Bike is almost new, basically crash protection. Maybe bead breaker, Heidenau is a real *****.
Good luck and have a fun.
Petre

Thanks guys, really helpful

Cheers
Andy

Just so you know Jenny Morgan (JMo on this forum ) took her very standard /barely modded Tenere all around North America, with some tough off roading, and had no problems. All the mods are great and enhance the bike, but it's a very capable bike to start with! . Good luck with the trip! Steve

Your suspension will be fine; your bike has only done a relatively short distance so far. the shock only starts to get noticeably saggy after 20,000+ Km. (It'll probably be knackered when you get back though!) Same applies to headrace greasing and suspension linkage servicing. Whilst a good idea, it doesn't sound like you've got time to change/grease anything anyway!

The stock bash plate is a lot tougher than it looks, and will do a job. Change it if you can be bothered, but it isn't essential. A metal one will be better (and allows you to prop the bike up under it), but with just two days to get sorted, I'd leave it. A high mudguard is a good call. I ripped my low one off when a a fairly innocuous stone got stuck in the tread.

New chain and sprockets is a good idea, so is fitting an oiler. Front brake pads last well, but may be worth changing before you go. The rear ones tend to wear quickest on the Z and last half the distance of the fronts so change them if there's less than half left.

I really wouldn't bother lugging around a spare reg/rec unit if its a 2010 or later model - your's being 2014. Just make sure the connector is clean, snapped home tight and protected from moisture with some dielectric grease inside and silicone grease on the outside.

Are you aware that the stock tool kit is useless? There's nothing to remove the wheels and the spark plug tool doesn't fit!

The most important thing is preparing yourself! In a way, it's more important than preparing the bike. Take your question above: Have you ever changed a tyre on an XTZ? For that matter, have you ever taken both the wheels out? If the answer is no, then one of the best things you can do is try and do it before you set off on your trip and crucially, do it only with the tools you will be taking with you. This will help highlight anything that's missing from your tool kit and any missing mechanical skills you may have! You're better off getting stuck with a stubborn bead or a missing tool at home rather than miles from anywhere in Africa. BTW - K60s are a sod to get on and off at the rear but last very well. Take 'em off and put 'em back on again - get some practice in!

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One suggestion more. I have heard that on Z model, there is some specific spot where some wire is rubbing the metal frame and can produce some electrical troubles. You can find here or someone will point you to the exact location and put some additional layer of tape to prevent this.
Petre

I did 20k on a run with my Z that already had 20k on it. There is not much to worry. Only things that you have to take caution is wheel bearings. Take spare bearings with you when you can't get a hand on them on the way, better already change them to new ones. Because they tend to rust when you do a lot of river crossings and the bike seems like it was used offroad. Most important is to lubricate the steering bearings (already having my third one). Oh and a spare spark plug could not be wrong (best take an iridium).

About the tyres. Don't forget the tyre valve tool and some tube fixing pads. I forgot the tyre valve tool and bought it after the first change of tyres

About tools, don't forget the hex key set. Otherwise u will be screwed. You won't be able to fix anything without an hex key set.

It seems like you want to drive 16k with a K60 Scout. If you go on hot tarmac they wont last this long. Better try to find a source you would be able to change the tyre after a maximum of 10k if needed. It's more fun and safer with a tyre that has some tread left. I also believed a Mitas E07 would last 20k (I read about many who drove this far) but had to admit that it was gone after only 9k (front was almost flat and the rear maybe would have lasted longer). Maybe its possible to do 16k with a Mitas E07 in the rear and some other type of tyre in the front.

And about the cush drive rubbers. Just check from time to time if the sprocket has any play and cut a tube and put it in the gaps off the rubbers (there are many threads that explain it). Spare rubber would just take to much space. If you dont wanna care abt the rubber take the polyurethane rubbers form Hunday, he is from Cape Town ( http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=21410) if you send him an email he responds quick (he doesn't answer PM's)).

No need to worry about this on a 2014 model. From around 2013 Yamaha thought to stick a neoprene pad to the frame to prevent the injector wires wearing through. Took them five years to work this one out though!

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