Yamaha was clever enough to provide a spare connection



So, I just connected the wires into the socket, soldered the ends and pushed them into the slots, insulation tape to keep them in place



Made a bracket that I screwed onto the handlebar





Workstation for pleasure

I did exactly the same a week ago connecting a dual USB socket to my handlebar.
That power supply is meant for electronic device like a GPS

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2014 XT660Z - Barrett pipe, DNA stage1.5, Barkbuster hand guards and handlebars, Pivot pegs, Teknik suspension, Guard-it engine protector combo, B&B rear rack, Trax topbox.

Do you need to put an inline fuse with the existing connection?
What is the connection called trying to find one online.

Phil

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dose the x have this too?

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2010 blue XTX now with both Kev fueling and o2 mods, K&N stage 1, 30mm up and back handle bar risers, HID kit, 25mm lust racing drop kit, mini running lights,pipe werx exhausts & denali soundbomb horn

Not absolutely essential, but advisable. The socket is on the sidelight circuit which is fused at 10A. If you don't fit a correctly rated inline fuse then should whatever you plug into the socket develop a fault then you'll lose your tail light and indicators as well if you just rely on the bike's fuse. Fitting an inline fuse <10A will keep everything else running if such a fault should occur. Generally if running sat nav or a pair of heated gloves a 3.5A-5A fuse will do the job. Check the power/current rating of your accessories. You cannot realistically draw more than 7.5A off this connection or the fuse will blow due to the sidelights, indicators etc taking up the rest of the 10A.

The connector is pretty much impossible to find. You can either chop it off and put a more commonly available one on in it's place, use spade terminals or solder the wires in place.

Be aware that the spare connector is also live when the key is turned to the 'P' position and removed from the ignition barrel.

Unfortunately not.

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I weighed up the costs of sum of the parts and opted for this solution. http://www.halfords.com/motoring/mot...orcycle-socket


Fits neatly to the bar brace, wired directly to the battery with the supplied 10a fuse and wiring reaching nicely under the seat.

So pepsi
You have a 12v socket and a TomTom running off the plug behind the dash?
Wound a dual usb and a 12v socket work off the dash connection? One on either side of the bike.

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What you�ve got to factor in is that, running off the �sidelight� circuit (on a stock bike) are:

Sidelights (2x 5W front, 1x 5W number plate and 8x 0.5W LEDs in the tail light) = 19W/1.52A @ 12.5V
Indicators (2x 10W) = 20W/1.6A
Hazards (4x 10W) = 40W/3.2A

Now you aren�t going to have the hazards and the indicators on at the same time, so we�ll assume the �worst case scenario� power consumption/current at 12.5V (battery voltage) is 59W/4.72A if you use the hazards. Which leaves you 66W/5.28A spare capacity on this circuit.

Most USB chargers and GPS/sat nav cradles need approximately 2-3A to charge a flat power cell (and draw 500mA even when nothing is plugged in) and most heated kit is 2-4A per item. This doesn�t leave a lot of room for manoeuvre.

You can �buy� yourself an extra 12W/0.96A by fitting LED bulbs to the front sidelights and number plate lamp (also LED indicators would help, but only with an electronic relay, not resistors), and obviously when the alternator is charging the circuit voltage will be 13.6-14.4V, which will lower the current flowing by about 10%. At best, with everything LED and with the engine running you could maybe achieve spare current capacity of about 9A on the sidelight circuit?

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You may note, I also gave a best case scenario!

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