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XT660Z T�n�r� Tech Section Tyres, Mods, Luggage & Long distance preparation |
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30,000 miles DIY checks
Hey team,
I've just hit 30,000 miles on my 2013 T�n�r�. All going fine, but I'm planning something big next summer, hopefully a long trip around Europe. I'm going to take a few weeks off the bike in January to get everything checked. I'll be swapping my rear shock for a Yacugar, so I might as well disassemble my rear end, grease the swing arm while I'm at it. What other checks and replacements would you recommend? I was thinking bleed and replace brake fluid, and maybe the coolant too? I also bought a stainless bolt set, so I'll be replacing them slowly as I get around to it. Any thoughts on the subject would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Steve.
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Bike: 2013 XT660Z, TKC70 tyres Mods: Barkbusters, Scottoiler, DIY Tail Mod, DNA Stage 3, Power Commander V & O2 Eliminator, Exan X-Black Stainless exhaust, Tool tube, Ohlins linear front fork springs, Nitron rear shock, JT front and Supersprox rear sprockets, D.I.D. VX 520 chain, Adventure Spec bashplate, DIY USB Outlet, DIY chain guide, Kev's Throttle mod http://www.facebook.com/onemooseonemotorbike |
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+1 for the clutch cable and I'd probably also change the clutch as I find the pivot hole ovals with use and it's light and day with a new �10 clutch.
+1 for greasing bearings Apart from this just a good standard service, and changing of standard wear items before you go like brake pads, tyres, chain etc And just enjoy yourself
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Plough on |
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if the headrace bearings have not been changed then its only a matter of time at 30k. i'd not worry about clutch cable. as long as you've kept the ends greased it'll be fine. obviously the crush rubbers and rear wheel/cush drive bearings might need to be done soon. these are the only things i've needed to do between 30k and the 58k i now have on bike
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check out www.redbikejohn.com for all the latest race reports from the CHEC and enduroland. |
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The electrics are also a weak point. It is worth spending a bit of time giving the loom a once-over.
Check all the wiring under the tank, particularly the injector spur, for abrasion. It is a common problem and can result in a non-runner. While you're at it, check all the electrical connectors for corrosion and ensure they make good contact (especially the reg/rec unit). Protecting multiplugs and connectors with dielectric grease is a good idea. |
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