How to get more ground clearance on my 660R - .: XT660.com

Bluepig600 · # 1 21-02-14, 09:29

I have a 2013 XT660R that I want to take off road, the ground clearance is half that of my XT600Z, is there an easy way to get more clearance such as raising links for the rear and extensions for the forks?

assenvas · # 2 22-02-14, 13:32

The best way would be 2 in 1 exhaust you should get the same ground clearance as the Z. On the other hand you will save more than half of the weight of the OE system which comes as a bonus.
However if you do not have the funds right now you can use rear suspension risers sold at OTR on-line they offer +35 mm. Unfortunately I have not seen fork risers on sale anywhere probably you will have to order custom made. This way you will not be able to get any of the above advantages apart of eventual increased clearance, of course.

Enjoy.

Bluepig600 · # 3 24-02-14, 17:37

Thank you, Assenvas, I will take a look at that.

Spinner Dan · # 4 04-03-14, 00:13

Hey mate,
As said above, the obvious and best way to gain more ground clearance is to change your pipes to a 2-in-1. However, it's a more costly path.

I'm 6'5", so I wanted a higher bike (which translates into more ground clearance) so I made up a few sets of dog bone linkages to lift the rear end to various heights. They work a treat - I settled on links that were 80 mm centre to centre (see pic).

I also got some work done on my forks. I got a new set of springs (racetech non-progressive) plus emulator valves to reduce the terrible stock sag and diving under brakes which destroys your ground clearance. I also got machined up a set of extended fork tube caps, meaning I could basically drop the forks further down thru the yolks about 20 mm. It was a pretty cheap fix, considering I've also got great front suspension now.

All up I have about 2 inches of extra ground clearance and the bike is a whole lot more comfortable for a bloke my height. It still turns well and handles the rough stuff heaps better. Of course, if you're not wanting to raise your seat height then the re-routed pipes are the best option.

Eddiw · # 5 24-03-14, 21:19

Has anyone tried the linkage bones from OTR?
I want to get my bike higher..
I am curious of the linkage bones "R/X +35mm". Does anybody have those ? Does the bike get 3,5cm higher? Anybody have any pictures of a raised bike ?
When raising the bike in the back, how does this affect the front?

What's the difference between the "TUV approved" and the normal ones? the TUV approved cost twice as much..

Pleiades · # 6 24-03-14, 22:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eddiw

Has anyone tried the linkage bones from OTR?
I want to get my bike higher..
I am curious of the linkage bones "R/X +35mm". Does anybody have those ? Does the bike get 3,5cm higher? Anybody have any pictures of a raised bike ?
When raising the bike in the back, how does this affect the front?

I tried the +35mm ones from OTR on the Z and they indeed raised the rear by 3.5cm, but made the handling horrible. Without being able to raise the front easily, I'd be wary of over-doing it at the back. The geometry will change quite a lot for a very small increase in height at the rear.

The main issue I found was that because the swingarm was at a steeper angle, the rear end tended to squat less on accelleration and caused the front to go light (and wobbly), and at the same time less squat under power reduced mechanical grip while on the throttle. The steering was slightly "quicker", but nothing too extreme. It was the sensation of an imminent "tank-slapper" when accellerating that put me off +35mm.

In the end I settled for some Projection Components 4-way adjustable raising links, so I could play about and find what's best. They'll raise either, 5mm, 15mm, 25mm or 40mm. In the end I found that (with correct sag) that a rear end lift of 15mm was as far as I could go without an adverse effect on handling. (I don't think they do them for the R/X though?)

Now, everyone is a different shape and size, prefer different handling traits and have different suspension setups to suit, so realistically the only way to find out what works is to give various heights a try. The R might behave differently to the Z too, so bear that in mind. Links aren't that expensive to "buy and try" and are actually pretty cheap to get machined up at the exact length you require.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eddiw

What's the difference between the "TUV approved" and the normal ones? the TUV approved cost twice as much..

You get a piece of paper with the expensive ones!

Eddiw · # 7 24-03-14, 22:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades

I tried the +35mm ones from OTR on the Z and they indeed raised the rear by 3.5cm, but made the handling horrible. Without being able to raise the front easily, I'd be wary of over-doing it at the back. The geometry will change quite a lot for a very small increase in height at the rear.

The main issue I found was that because the swingarm was at a steeper angle, the rear end tended to squat less on accelleration and caused the front to go light (and wobbly), and at the same time less squat under power reduced mechanical grip while on the throttle. The steering was slightly "quicker", but nothing too extreme. It was the sensation of an imminent "tank-slapper" when accellerating that put me off +35mm.

In the end I settled for some Projection Components 4-way adjustable raising links, so I could play about and find what's best. They'll raise either, 5mm, 15mm, 25mm or 40mm. In the end I found that (with correct sag) that a rear end lift of 15mm was as far as I could go without an adverse effect on handling. (I don't think they do them for the R/X though?)

Now, everyone is a different shape and size, prefer different handling traits and have different suspension setups to suit, so realistically the only way to find out what works is to give various heights a try. The R might behave differently to the Z too, so bear that in mind. Links aren't that expensive to "buy and try" and are actually pretty cheap to get machined up at the exact length you require.

You get a piece of paper with the expensive ones!

Thank you very much Pleiades! Your input are very much appreciated!
I think a pass the +35mm ones.. Too bad they don't sell +15mm or +20mm ones..

Petenz · # 8 25-03-14, 05:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eddiw

Thank you very much Pleiades! Your input are very much appreciated!
I think a pass the +35mm ones.. Too bad they don't sell +15mm or +20mm ones..

make them... I made all my sets..
30mm X 6mm stainless steel with 16mm holes at what spaceing you need..

Pleiades · # 9 25-03-14, 15:10

Pete's right. Don't give up! Make some (or get some made) - try some different lengths. I'll quote myself...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades

...pretty cheap to get machined up at the exact length you require.

You have got to play around (in a logical way) and try things out in order to find out what's right and works best for you. One size most definitely doesn't fit all when it comes to suspension. Just because +35mm are the only ones available doesn't mean that they are the only solution. Think outside the box and get fabricating...

Ernesto · # 10 01-05-14, 19:29

Remember that XTX linkage bones are 5mm shorter than XTR ones, that lift the rear 25mm. They cost around 20�.

Not as extreme as the OTR ones, and cheaper.

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