Hello.
I just mounted my DNA stage 1 air filter to my XTR 2008 model.
It felt flimsy and did not connect good when inserted in the airbox.
I applied sealing grease( little red container came with the air filter)
Should I just relax and think nothing of it, or is there something to assure a good seal.
I worry that dirt/ dust get past the poor fit/ seal.
Any input would br greatly appreciated.

Also, I think I saw a pic of a metal "frame" to add for good seal when mounting DNA stage 2.
Where can these be bought?

Best regards
Anders

I've just installed a K&N and that was a really tight fit and used sealing grease as per yours. The DNA needs to be the same tight fit. I assume it can only be fitted one (the correct) way around? This was the case with the K&N. Maybe worth checking?

Cheers.
No worries inserting the filter the one and only way.
Problem is the rubber frame of the filter is soft and gravity does a job on the filter.
When shining a light from the "dirty side, light will pass the filter shining into the "clean side". Flimsy filter that does not support itself, instead sagging and letting light and possibly dust/ dirt pass.
I had high hopes fitting this filter, instead dissapointment came my way.
Have already fitted a new original filter ande gotten my snorkel back in position.
Dirt, thou shall not pass.
Would love a good solution.

Best regards

Anders

I don't have a solution, but I did have the same problem. When I bought the bike it had a nice sturdy K&N filter. I bought a DNA filter to replace it and it was/is a very loose fit - to the extent that for the first month I would shine a torchdown inside the airbox occasionally to check it hadn't fallen out of the slots completely! 6 months on, it's still there, but I wasn't impressed with the quality compared to K&N. I've just fitted a stage 2 and it's made of the same strange rubber giving an odd seal, and compressing and deforming where the screws are tightened. I can only assume that the soft foam/rubber used by DNA is a cost-cutting thing.

K&N would be a solution, but that would mean spending more money! I went with the K&N as the DNA looked overpriced to me. The K&N also has a rubber body but it's firm rubber and doesn't move about especially when fitted. A lot of people on here are using the DNA so maybe somebody will come up with the answer for you.....

One thing I can say is that there is a big improvement going snorkel out and K&N filter over stock...........

Good luck,

OX.......

My Dna filter wobbled about on my ten so I stuck an o ring underneath it to lift it up, it seals fine now, I was too tight to pay for the snorkel mod so this solved it. I believe JMo did it a fair while ago as well.
Best Regards,
Jim

Thanks gentlemen for your input.
Feels bit strange that I have not seen complaints about the DNA stage 1 in great numbers before.
I had the chance to "feel" a K&N filter yesterday and it is has a more robust rubber in it. But, new cost mixed with my recent dissapointment made me go back to original filter.
Also, I think Im a bit sensitive to "intake sound". The bike simply sounded awful with the DNA stage 1 and snorkel removed.
I did not feel much difference in power either, maybe because I drive slow and cautious. I have never gotten the front wheel of the ground, I leave that to others.
I would still like to find a "metal frame" to support the soft rubber DNA stage 2 that I have laying here in front of me.

Link to the "frame" http://www.xt660.com/showpost.php?p=96668&postcount=7
cant seem to find it in the shop anymore, will try to PM worry brother.

Again, thanks

Anders

I've a K+N and a DNA 2 snorkel out and the holes drilled in the airbox which was a major improvement combined with a PC I'm more than happy the way the motor runs the rest of the bike needs work to be able to use it to the max.

I thought an aftermarket R6 wheel would fit but it's too wide.

Can hardly hear the induction noise because I always wear ear plugs but sounds good to me when the motor starts to really pick up.

Why do you want a frame for the DNA2?? it fits fine.

But my question? why fit all these parts if you not going think about picking the front wheel because that's where your are going,because all the parts are performance orientated.

The other thing now the motor runs like it does I never use first gear it's way too short.

I wrote that the DNA stage 1 and stage 2 have very soft rubber.
My DNA stage 1 dont seal against the airbox. the filter sags and let light pass= poor filtration.
The metal frame for DNA stage 2 will cause pressure to extend beyond the 4 screws that hold tha DNA stage 2. I want a good seal between airbox and DNA stage 2
I fit these part to be able to ride more comfortly in lower revs like I have done with other one cylinder bikes.
I want to gear up at lower revs to save fuel and have a more comfortable ride.
I also see nothing wrong with more power when overtaking cars.
Those are my reasons.
Letting the front wheel leave the ground would cause me to crasch, I dont have good balance, neither the courage to try it.
Performance can be used in many ways, picking the front wheel is one.
Im awaiting the delivery of a Kev O2 Controller, really tired of the surging the bike makes.

Thanks for your input

Anders

On the XTX & XTR's the main filter is held in place by the air box side cover, the side cover has lugs on it to apply pressure to the air filter face when the side cover is fitted, with the cover off the filter looks like it will not seal.

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Mods that I have done to my XTX's

My 04 XTX
Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil /
[
My 07 XTX
Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator /

My 09 XTX
59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details

Now ride a 2018 MT09SP ABS + TCS

My KTM 990 SMR Mod book. http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4946