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  # 1  
Old 11-02-13, 22:43
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Black Dog Black Dog is offline
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Ignition switch

Small issue, no big deal, but wondering if anyone else had this ...

The ignition switch on my XTR (2006) can be very hard to turn. Specifically, once you get the right spot it turns easily enough, but finding the right spot is difficult. I have to put the key in all the way, and then slowly withdraw it, trying it all the time, until I get to the point where it will turn. Sometimes I have to go through this 2-3 times before I can get the bike switched on.

The reason I am asking this here is that I have never had this problem with any other bike - except my old 2004 XTR, which was exactly the same. I was wondering if this was a widespread issue, or if it's just me

Once the key is in the right position, it turns sweetly, so I don't think it's a lubrication or dirt issue. It seems as if the key should have a 'stop' on it to ensure it is correctly located in the lock, but this is wrong or missing (not a lock expert, guessing here). I was cursing it tonight - late for work - and then suddenly remembered that my last XTR had the same 'feature'.

Anyone else had this?
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  # 2  
Old 12-02-13, 01:22
alpine100 alpine100 is offline
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Hi Black dog, ive just got a R & i have the same issue, ive put loads of lube down it but no joy
  # 3  
Old 12-02-13, 04:30
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This issue was common on 2004 to 2006 models.
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Mods that I have done to my XTX's

My 04 XTX
Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil /
[
My 07 XTX
Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator /

My 09 XTX
59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details

Now ride a 2018 MT09SP ABS + TCS

My KTM 990 SMR Mod book. http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4946

  # 4  
Old 12-02-13, 04:31
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Ah, not just me then As I said above, it's no biggie, but it would be good to find a way to make starting the bike easier. It's a bit of a fiddle at the moment. When I get some free time I am going to go into it a bit more. If I find anything useful, I will post it here.

Kev, thanks for the update. I assume no easy fix, then?

I'm going to give it a good flush out with contact cleaner, just in case there is any muck in there, and then see what I can do. It might just be that I haven't rediscovered the knack yet.
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  # 5  
Old 12-02-13, 06:24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Dog View Post
Small issue, no big deal, but wondering if anyone else had this ...

The ignition switch on my XTR (2006) can be very hard to turn. Specifically, once you get the right spot it turns easily enough, but finding the right spot is difficult. I have to put the key in all the way, and then slowly withdraw it, trying it all the time, until I get to the point where it will turn. Sometimes I have to go through this 2-3 times before I can get the bike switched on.

The reason I am asking this here is that I have never had this problem with any other bike - except my old 2004 XTR, which was exactly the same. I was wondering if this was a widespread issue, or if it's just me

Once the key is in the right position, it turns sweetly, so I don't think it's a lubrication or dirt issue. It seems as if the key should have a 'stop' on it to ensure it is correctly located in the lock, but this is wrong or missing (not a lock expert, guessing here). I was cursing it tonight - late for work - and then suddenly remembered that my last XTR had the same 'feature'.

Anyone else had this?
As many have said it is an issue with the barrel in models from 2004 to 2006, mine was changed under warranty, and they had to reprogram the red key and black keys to the ECU and changed both ignition barrel and seat lock barrel. Have a word with your local dealer.
  # 6  
Old 12-02-13, 08:38
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Hmm, sounds like a lot of hassle for what is, for me, a fairly minor issue. Guess I will learn to live with it. Thanks for the information, anyway.

Glad to know it wasn't just me being cack-handed!
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  # 7  
Old 12-02-13, 14:27
Dadiodw Dadiodw is offline
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Got a xtx same year same problem, have took mine apart lubed it and played with it. Have found with mine if you put the key all way in and put a little pressure to the opposite way as to what part ot the ignition part you want. I.e to turn on at 11 o'clock put pressure on to 5 o'clock. This works fine for me for now :-\
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  # 8  
Old 12-02-13, 15:36
Pleiades Pleiades is offline
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Graphite powder is the stuff - May not cure an old lock, but it'll help a lot.

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/13083...ype=pla&crdt=0

Avoid WD, ACF and liquid lubes if at all possible in ignition barrels as they'll ultimate attract grit and general cack which makes a pretty effective grinding paste.
  # 9  
Old 12-02-13, 15:43
mash101 mash101 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pleiades View Post
Graphite powder is the stuff - May not cure an old lock, but it'll help a lot.

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/13083...ype=pla&crdt=0

Avoid WD, ACF and liquid lubes if at all possible in ignition barrels as they'll ultimate attract grit and general cack which makes a pretty effective grinding paste.
+1 on dry graphite type lube....
Also, I had an XJ6 as a loan bike a while back. Key/barrel looked the same as XT, & was a complete pain to unlock petrol tank. It looked like it was down to corrosion.
I had a similar problem with my car key, but not with spare. I wire brushed & used emery paper on sharp feeling parts of key. Worked better afterwards.....
  # 10  
Old 12-02-13, 21:33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadiodw View Post
Have found with mine if you put the key all way in and put a little pressure to the opposite way as to what part ot the ignition part you want. I.e to turn on at 11 o'clock put pressure on to 5 o'clock.
Thanks, will give that a try.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pleiades View Post
Graphite powder is the stuff.
I'd agree with that, although it isn't easy stuff to find. I like contact cleaner to flush out the old oil and muck (evaporates to nothing) and then graphite powder or, at a pinch, WD-40. The advantage of WD-40 is that it is light, so you can easily wash it out and start again if it starts to get sticky. I've also had good results from a drip (no more) of 3-in-1 oil applied to the key rather than the lock, and worked in. I also have some silicon spray which has worked wonders on some very nasty locks at work, so I might try that. It dries 'dry', as it were, so no danger of the grinding paste thing.

But, as I said above, this isn't a sticky lock full of grease and dirt. It's the mechanism itself. It's just very hard to get the key into the right position to turn it. Once you are there, it's fine. Day off tomorrow, will get experimenting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mash101 View Post
I had a similar problem with my car key, but not with spare. I wire brushed & used emery paper on sharp feeling parts of key. Worked better afterwards.....
I'll have a look at the key too, thanks.
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