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  # 1  
Old 02-05-12, 18:38
wuming wuming is offline
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12 volt power socket

I remember reading somewhere on here about attaching a 12 volt power socket to some "spare" wires behind the headlight (can't find it now). Can anybody point me in the right direction of an "idiots how to..." guide on how to do this, with pics if possible?
Cheers.
  # 2  
Old 02-05-12, 19:29
Pleiades Pleiades is offline
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Pretty much everything is covered here...

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=16274

You can't miss the spare connector under the dash panel, it's a 12V ignition switched supply on the sidelight circuit (so it will also be live with the key in the P position). The connector block itself is next to useless though as there doesn't appear to be a male end available to fit it - you'll have to chop it off and start again! Just make sure you fit an inline fuse in the accessory circuit.
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Old 02-05-12, 21:29
wuming wuming is offline
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Thanks Pleiades, just what I was after. I have been looking at this as a candidate to wire in, as it also has a fuse:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Waterproof-C...5986520&sr=8-1

Is this a suitable power socket; bearing in mind I'll have to change the ring connectors to something suitable for the connections on the bike? What connections do you recommend to marry up the 12V power socket to the wiring on the bike?
Cheers.
  # 4  
Old 02-05-12, 22:02
Pleiades Pleiades is offline
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That socket would work OK, but you might find it a bit awkward to mount it neatly? It's a good price, but when it comes to waterproof electrical equipment you do get what you pay for IMHO. You might be better off with a surface mounted socket (?), it'll be result in a tidier job, for example it'll fit quite nicely in the panel behind the front indicator (a fag lighter socket will fit but it's more of a squeeze). Here's one of mine...



I've actually got one each side, an ignition switched one and a direct to battery one (which I can use with an Optimate).

Also have you considered a DIN type socket, rather than a cigarette lighter, they are more common place on motorcycles because they are smaller and easier to make waterproof?

http://www.windingroads.co.uk/shop/p...owerlet-socket
  # 5  
Old 02-05-12, 22:04
b374 b374 is offline
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I'd look for something that can be mounted in the plastic bits between the tank and dash. Wiring it out... just cut the wires, plug them in the connector if you don't want to cut it and duct tape them to stay - that's how I have the GPS wiring set for about a year and a half.

I wired the 12V socket directly to the battery as it's unlikely I'd leave something in it to drain it....
  # 6  
Old 03-05-12, 11:00
uk_nick uk_nick is offline
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You can also mount one neatly in the "dash" panel ....

  # 7  
Old 03-05-12, 12:46
steveD steveD is offline
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Hi Wuming. A lot of us here have used this power supply for our GPS's, but I would be apprehensive about using it for a greater wattage.
I personally use a relay powered from the rear brake circuit to supply all of my ancilliaries. This keeps the system relatively inclutteres and simple. It gives me the opportunity to add on more 'bits' and is cheap to make.

Search on 'Relay' to find details and pics.

The main reason that I did it this way is that the wire to the aforementioned connector is very small and compared to the wires for my heated jacket is well out of proportion. The last thing I want is to melt any cables within the loom.

Hope this helps

SteveD
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Old 03-05-12, 13:21
Nick G Nick G is offline
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Hi SteveD, I'm just about to use 'that' connector' to power my GPS. Have you found a connector to go into it? Pleiades mentions not finding a male connector to fit it. I'd rather not chop it off if I can avoid it.
Nick G
  # 9  
Old 03-05-12, 14:12
Pleiades Pleiades is offline
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@wuming...

Following up on Steve's good point about relays - I wouldn't recommend drawing any more than 2A (30W) continuous current straight off the dash connector without a relay. If you aren’t using a relay just make sure you limit the maximum current flow with a correctly rated fuse to match the demand of the accessory and the suitability/rating of the wiring. In this application I would use a 3A fuse to limit maximum demand to about 40W.

The bottom line is, if 30W isn’t enough for your needs, do as Steve says and fit a relay to allow the demand load to come straight off the battery.
  # 10  
Old 03-05-12, 14:48
uberthumper uberthumper is offline
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Of course you could use that spare connector to switch the relay

I'm going to be building an auxiliary fuse/relay box at some point for mine, to give me ignition-switched, fused feeds for GPS, roadbook holder, trip-computer, heated grips, and possibly aux lights. Will be complete overkill for most on here I expect, but I'll post some pics up anyway.
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