I read an interesting article on tyre wear: http://www.rattlebars.com/tirewear/index.html it goes on to suggest that engine braking should be avoided at all costs, as brake pads are cheaper than drive train parts & tyres will wear much faster.... Now: I learnt to drive in a 1972 Mini 850 with no brakes to speak of, so have engine braking ingrained in me! Any thoughts on the X about this??
Also: I read another article on revving bike engines so they're always in the power band. I looked up the XT torque curve: max power/torque seems to be around 5000 or so RPM. I have a Koso digital rev counter, but this seems like I'm always thrashing the X. Any comments??

one of the main reasons i love a big single engine is the torque and engine braking, these 660 yamaha lumps are pretty much indestructable imo...

I'm with Feck on this one. Cut my teeth on 2 strokes, but in them days the lack of engine braking was irrelevant because I always had the throttle wide open!

I have to say nowadays I like my bikes with plenty of engine braking, give me a single or twin any day over a multi - suits my riding style, control everything on the throttle, I find it easier to be smooth.

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This brings back memories of when I was learing to drive a car in the late 70s - I remember my father telling me to use the brakes instead of shifting down as brake shoes and pads were easier to replace than a gearbox or clutch or both. That to me was a good argument at the time, in those days clutches seemed to wear quickly and a change of gearbox was expected. I think things have changed.
Sorry back to bikes - Aye I use my brakes to stop rather than slow down, much prefer to give the engine a blip, change down and let the engine do the work.

As far as keeping a bike in the power band - it depends what is meant by that - do they mean at the peak of the power band? If so that is crazy imo. Keeping the engine in the power band to me means - don't labour the engine and you don't need to take it to the red line as the max power is below that - just common sense.

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Work hard, rock hard, eat hard, sleep hard, grow big an wear glasses if you need em.

keeping the bike in the power band does not mean keeping it at peak hp or near the red line. It is keeping it at (or rather slightly below) peak torque. That gives the most direct throttle response and most direct engine braking. Works well for most bikes.

I got taught when learning that brakes are for slowing you down and gears are for going, but always when your braking to have yourself in a gear that allows you to get the part back on again if neccesary.

Personally i find if its only a few mph you want to wip off and youve enough space in front of you just turn the throttle off and it will do a good 90% of the work for you, but if you need to use the brakes

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Plough on

Aye, just making that point myself - ie mash101 has misread/misunderstood IN the power band.

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Work hard, rock hard, eat hard, sleep hard, grow big an wear glasses if you need em.

Aha, just found the link to the article I went & lost:
http://www.superbike.co.uk/viewers/v...3A+revved+hard
Interesting, although the article specifically applies to multi-cylinder sports bikes......

Engine V's brakes.... the endless debate.

And there is no right and wrong (a bit like daytime running lights).

There is a time and a place for both. And it's up to you the rider to determine when and where.

Personally, in the main, I use throttle control, this means holding the speed, acceleration or deceleration by careful use of the throttle.

Brakes have one massive advantage over engine braking, they tell the person behind you that you are slowing down. very important if you don't want to end up being rear-ended. I would always consider applying enough brake to bring the lights up and warn others.

Correct throttle control means less tyre wear, less fuel and less chance of upsetting the bike.

Sometimes I like to ride on the brakes and throttle, usually in the mountains and mostly when there are no other road users who might find this riding style offensive.

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Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Great thread and very thought provoking. I also ride on the circuit with a 4 cylinder sports bike so the technique is totally different to the single on the road. I agree that the objective on the road should be to anticipate situations so that you arrive at the correct speed and thus avoid heavy braking.
Have fun cos the XT660X is basically a FUN bike......at safe speeds.

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(Now sold on, sob) 2011 Blue XT660X with gold wheels, was 26,500 km.
Engine mods: K&N Stage 1 filter, DNA Stage 2 filter, snorkel removed, Kev fuel mod fitted.
Plus: smoked Puig screen, Yam aluminium sump guard, Yamaha / Acerbis handguards, Givi Trekker aluminium side cases, Leo Vince X3 cans plus Kev front fork mod and Fender Xtender. Just fitted Michelin Road Pilot 3 tyres.

SOLD the XTX for a Super Ten 1200. And just bought a Raptor 700 so staying on here for some tips....