Hi.

I have a XT660Z Tenere 2011 with +-7400Klm on it. I am having problems with the bike cutting out. It started at around 7000Klm. It starts, I ride it for +- 11Klm then the orange motor warning light comes on. After a minute or two the dash completely blacks out, with all warning lights off. Lights, and flickers etc still work, but not the dash lights. Then a minute or two later the bikes speedo drops to zero. Then a minute or two later the bike cuts out. If I stop the bike when the orange light comes on, I can not start it again at all. The starter solinoid starts buzzing, as if the battery is flat.
This has happened three times now.
After standing for some time and fiddling with battery and terminals, the bike again starts as if nothing happened, only to do the same pattern again.

I took it to YAMAHA, and they said it was either a flat battery (Which they charged) or the TFI unit, which they originally fitted, and have now removed, but still the problem persists.

Has anyone had similar problems? Could it just be a faulty battery?

Thanks!!!

Marcel - Hermanus South Africa

Hi Marcel,

Do a search on "rectifier connector" and I think you may find your problem. (Connector breaks down resulting in no charge to the battery). It's well documented. Annoying and fairly common issue but easily.....umm.......rectified!

Cheers, Rick

+1

It does sound like the early stages of regulator/rectifier problem, plug terminals are on there way out, but not quite lost all contact, which explains why its a bit intermittent. Is the engine trouble light flashing any code at you with ignition on/engine not running? I'd pull off the reg/rec multiplug and have a look inside at the terminals, if there is any sign of scorching, blackening or melting then you've found your problem. First fault like this I've heard on a 2011 bike, usually the early ones are affected? The bonus is your bike is well within warranty and this fault is a warranty issue, you shouldn't have any trouble extracting a new wiring loom from Yamaha. Surprised your dealer didn't investigate this first up?

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I'm not sure this is a problem outside of the UK/Europe. Unless someone knows different, I've not heard of this problem in SA.

I thought the same when I read the post, but I'm not 100% sure it is the 'usual' problem. I would certainly take the plug apart and take a look, also check out the resistance over the rectifier terminals at the same time (the details of how/what to expect are in the workshop manual) to see if the reg/rec is working properly ,this I would expect the dealer to check though, batteries go dead at times, but on a running bike, either the battery is faulty, or the charging circuit is (or you are using more power than the bike is delivering). If you charge the battery it presumes that you think the problem is in the charging, if you thought it was the battery, you'd replace it.

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Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

BTW, what's a TFI unit? The only TFI I know of has something to do with Fridays!!

Its a fueling device, the simple version is a bit like a kev mod and the fancy one's a bit like a Power Commander.

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Yeah this happened to me on my R6, turned out to be the regulator/rectifier.

But if you drive around with it like this for too long you can muck up the battery or the alternator.

Having exactly the same problem at the moment mate. Spent last night on the side of the m5 until 02:00.
I replaced the rectifier and battery earlier that day...

Again thats what happened to me lol, i didnt have breakdown cover but said i was in an unsafe area so got picked up for free

Hi, Posted this in a similar thread too.

Output should be between 14.1 and 14.9 volts at 5000rpm, measured across the battery terminals.

Personally I would double check the regulator installation and very closely inspect the connections at the connector block, also make sure the connector is pushed fully home.

If you are sure the new regulator has been properly installed and the contacts in the plug to it aren't damaged it may be worth checking that the connector from the alternator stator windings is sound, it's located behind the rear master cylinder on the Z, enclosed by a rubber boot - it's the 3pin connector with white wires. You could also measure the resistance of the windings (you need an ohm meter), the readings between any pair of windings on the alternator side of the connector should be between 0.224 and 0.336 ohms. Check also the resistance readings between each winding and the chassis/earth, they should be infinite, i.e. no reading. If there is a reading it could indicate a short in one of the stator windings.
Stator windings very rarely give any problems though (in any vehicle), usually it is a wiring fault in a loom or water ingress at a connector that causes problems here.

I hope you find the problem quickly.

Cheers.

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