You can also cut the logs off so no holes for locating lugs needed.

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I suggest that if you get the switchgear in the right position, then stick some masking tape in the area where the lugs are ( 1. to stop the drill slipping,2. to help show the paint), the drop a bit of paint on the lug, and close the switchgear to mark the spot, then remove the switchgear, use a c-punch/ rivet punch to help guide the drill bit, and drill the hole, making sure any swarf is not going to hit the forks.

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2008 XTR Mods : DNA Stage 3 Airbox, PC111, Carbon Cans Ovals, Steve Ruth built XTR734cc Big Bore with - High Desert Dyno (HDD)/ Cuervo Racing Gas Flowed / Ported Head fitted with +1mm Valves & uprated Springs, HDD 5050 Camshaft, HDD +3mm Throttle Body, CP 105.5mm 11:1 Piston, Custom Mapping, Piasini ECU, Renthal 613-01, Barkbusters VPS, Pivot Pegz, Touratech Bashplate, Foam Grips, Kev's O2 Sensor Mod, Kev's Extra Coolant Cooler, Wilbers Progressive Fork Springs and Rear Shock

Or you could do what I did, and get both of them slightly wrong - in opposite directions - so you have somewhat pissed switchgear

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I spent a lot of money on travel and racing motorcycles - the rest I just squandered.

XT660Z - Commuter, Adventurer...Racer?

www.dashmoto.net

Other bikes >> MT-03 / CG125BR-J / ER-6F
Departed >> ZXR400L3 / EC300 / DR-Z400E / DR800S / GPZ500S / GS400

maybe I should have come back to this post earlier! lol

my starter is now a new security feature (in that it’s hard to get to)

and the kill switch is now a new safety feature (easier to get to)

least the indicators are in the right place :-)

have learned for next time...

I tried the switch gear without the lugs installed before drilling but found they did not appear to be secure and slid round the bars with little force...

with the plastic lug "thingie" installed, but log removed, is the switchgear more stable?

do you mean that you cut off the lugs?

If so, you could put a little grippy tape around the handlebar.

I now think that the cluch cable does need to be longer..and I am going here.. http://www.venhill.co.uk/Motorbike_B...YAMAHA/650-660

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2008 XTR Mods : DNA Stage 3 Airbox, PC111, Carbon Cans Ovals, Steve Ruth built XTR734cc Big Bore with - High Desert Dyno (HDD)/ Cuervo Racing Gas Flowed / Ported Head fitted with +1mm Valves & uprated Springs, HDD 5050 Camshaft, HDD +3mm Throttle Body, CP 105.5mm 11:1 Piston, Custom Mapping, Piasini ECU, Renthal 613-01, Barkbusters VPS, Pivot Pegz, Touratech Bashplate, Foam Grips, Kev's O2 Sensor Mod, Kev's Extra Coolant Cooler, Wilbers Progressive Fork Springs and Rear Shock

IS the correct answer

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Thanks for posting this stuff. I have purchased the same bar (613-01) but have found that both my throttle and my clutch cables are slightly too short. Thinking about re-routing now. I don't mind what it looks like but obviously want it to be safe (!). Do you think it's do-able/worth it over trying to buy longer cables?

probably best getting new cables as the clutch cable i dont think you can really reroute it as its in the perfect position/route for operation at the moment and any other way may cause problems. Not sure how much they cost but they should cost a million $$$

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Plough on

you may be right but I got bored yesterday and re-routed the throttle and clutch cables to the rear of the bars so they don't go between the forks. Its given me enough slack for the bars. Doesn't seem to cause any problems lock to lock, throttle opens and closes just as freely and clutch seems just as good as before - which makes sense as the cables are not curved anymore than they were before. I'll keep an eye on it and report back here if any problems come from it.

I just installed Renthal RC High on WRP fat-bar risers/adapters. Only issue i've had is the clutch cable. Had to get rid of one og the tie wraps.



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