I was taking off the footrests today (fitting a centre-stand). Started on the RHS where the top bolt came out, with some resistance, and then the bottom bolt started flopping loose. I managed to hacksaw off the bolt-head and then found that the nut, which sits inside the frame, (and was probably lightly brazed to the frame on the inside), is now just loose. So the question is - has anyone ever had this happen to them and, more importantly, how the hell to fix it, since there is no way to get insdie the frame where the nut should be secured.

HELP!!!

Not sure what you mean. Are you worried that the bolt is loose and that if you fit another one that too will be loose? Or that it's stuck in the frame and that you can't get to it?

I had difficulty removing those bolts too, reason being is that they have loctite on them and that I used the wrong tool (the right tool but not the 'larger version')

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The problem is that the nut has come away from the inside of the frame and there is no way to secure the bolt. After a slightly sleepness night I have decided to see if I can get a long 10mm rod made up (with both ends threaded) that can go right through the frame and secure both sides. I can't think of what else I can do. Any more ideas?

Try a longer bolt to be certain? I'm sure Kev will be able to point you in the right direction

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can you post a clear picture so we can get an idea of what we are looking at [excuse the pun]as even the manufacturers have to get the nut in and secure it, im sure there is a solution to the problem

stoic

I don't think a pic will help much. Look at the lower bolt(s) that secure the left/right footpegs and ask yourself "Where are the nuts?" or "Where is the thread to secure this bolt?" and I think you will understand. There is no way in there, I imagine the bolt/thread/whatever was brazed in there when the frame was being made. The top ones are worse since there is NO way to replace them. Go and look....tell me I'm wrong. Since my first post, I have got a 500mm-long 10mm-diameter rod and am looking to somehow insert this right through the frame to secure both sides, BUT, I have come across a problem....I can't get the rod through because the "old" nut (that I hacksawed off) is inside and blocking the path. I'll keep you updated. In the meantime I would advise all owners who think they might need to get these bolts out at some point in the future (ie to fit a centre-stand) to take them out now and grease the threads.

I recently fitted a centre stand, and like I said the bolts were hard to remove because of the loctite, but other than that I didn't have a problem. I don't think using grease on the bolts is such a good idea either

I personally think you have missed something somewhere, as lots of people have fitted CS's without this incident occuring. I cannot see how the bolt (if there even is one in there that can come loose) has come loose when all you have done is attempted to remove the bolt and then sheared the head off using only a circular motion.

Why don't you remove the bolt with the sheared head first, and then try again with a longer bolt? How can you be so sure the 'nut' has broken off inside without taking the bolt out first?

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Let's recap here - whilst undoing the RHS bolts to fit a Centre-stand the lower bolt stripped the nut away from it's (lightly) brazed position on the inside of the swing-arm frame section (ie the bolt just turned freely with the nut still attached). The only way to detach the foot-brake assembly was to hack-saw off the bolt-head, which I did. Now the nut, with the remainder of the bolt, is "stuck" inside the Swing-arm lower frame section (this is a tubular section that goes across to the other side). You won't be able to see this unless you remove either the footbrake assembly or the LHS pedal/sidestand assembly. I no longer really need any help (as such) because I can see exactly what options I have (which are few). I will probably have to grind a hole in the swingarm frame "tube" big enough to extract the nut/bolt remnant and then try do a tidy welding-up job. I have bought a 500mm-long steel tube and I propose to get a thread made on each end and use that as the lower mounting system for both sides. That's the plan anyway. I'll let you know the outcome. As I said earlier, keep an eye on those bolts!!!!

Sorry mate I must have missed this thread. Just been in Sydney for exams, I have had my head in the books of late.

I few things that could be done.

1/ I would grind the holes in the frame where the bolts went through bigger, then fish out the old nuts. I would get two round nuts machined up, place them in the bigger holes then welded the new nuts flush with the frame & paint.

2/ Get two spacer sleeves machined up with threads at one end only, weld the sleeves to the frame, cut the spacer sleeves that are welded to the foot peg brackets off as we won't use them again, the use shorter bolts to hold on the brake lever & foot peg bracket in place. The two sleeves will have different OD as one of them would be smaller as it would go through the brake leaver.

Either way the job is a nasty one. I will give it some more thought to see if I can come up with a easier way to fix the threads.

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Mods that I have done to my XTX's

My 04 XTX
Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil /
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My 07 XTX
Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator /

My 09 XTX
59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details

Now ride a 2018 MT09SP ABS + TCS

My KTM 990 SMR Mod book. http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4946