Ive decided im going to try and see if i can re-grease the swing arm bearings and head race bearings over christmas as they have never been done to my knowledge yet. However ive never done this before but im up for doing it but wanting to see if i need anything special bar standard spanners and ignorance

Also wondering if anyone can link me to the rest of these guide notes

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?...ght=suspension

Also wondering if there are any guides like this for regreasing the head race bearings?

Had a quick search and cant see to find any.

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Plough on

Part 1: http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=20735

Part 2: http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=20736

Part 3: http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=20737

Part 4: http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=20738

Service your steering head bearings: http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=12483

All the tools needed (or ways to get round needing them) are covered at various points within the threads, just read them though before you start.

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Cheers buddy that will give me some reading tomorrow while waiting on the girlfriend while she has to work and i get to put my feet up!!!

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Plough on

Ehhh ehhh I've been a bit ham fisted and still can't get the swing arm bolt to come out!!! I've tried my best to drift it out but am now knackering the nut and also a socket head which I'm busing to help not damage the threads on the bolt anymore. I've sprayed around each end as much as I can with wd40 but nothings moved.

any suggestions?

I've got the main suspension linkage out (triangle bit with 3 bearings) so I'm nearly there now just need the swing arm out.

also anyone know where I can get a new swing arm nut/bolt from?

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Plough on

They do seize up I'm afraid. Sometimes the only course of action is brute force and ignorance and as a result you may well have to sacrifice the the pivot bolt (which is highly likely to be corroded anyway). Laying the bike on its side can sometimes help give you a better whack at it?

OE parts I always get from here.

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I'd put it on it's side and spray sparingly with WD40 and leave overnight to allow time for it to seep down in.

After that keep the nut on,but screwed out some and bang away at it. As stated you might just have to get a new one and it'll be easier to whack whilst on it's side.





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The Suit:What would you consider to be your greatest weakness?
Me: Honesty.
The Suit: Honesty? I don't think honesty could be construed as a weakness.
Me: I don't give a f**k what you think.

.[IMG] [/IMG]

That's the head race bearings loose so packed with a bit of grease and new one on the way. The swing arm bolt is well and truely lodged in and is going to take some time to try and get out, had the bike on it's stand for two days and kept spraying bolt head with wd40 but no movement and now the nuts banjoed. I've ordered a new bolt but refuse to pay nearly �25 for a 22mm nut. I'll sort something out!!!

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Plough on

Hi

IMO spraying the bolt head is not what's needed....the oil can't get onto and into the swing arm shaft with out gravity letting in ooze down whilst it's on it's side.

I suggest trying the same again but leaving the moto on it's side?

If you see my swing arm shaft and how it was corroded I can only imagine what a UK moto would be like taking into account road salt and dampness.

Don't forget a drift and lump hammer whilst it's on its side to give it a good clout or three.




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The Suit:What would you consider to be your greatest weakness?
Me: Honesty.
The Suit: Honesty? I don't think honesty could be construed as a weakness.
Me: I don't give a f**k what you think.

.[IMG] [/IMG]

Apply some heat with a blow lamp, or your missus creme br�l�e burner

WD40 isn't a great penetrating oil. Either use PlusGas or the graphite type of penetrating oil (Toolstation sell no-brand stuff fairly cheap). Although to be frank, I'm not 100% sure that penetrating oil will do much good in this case.

Neither do I think the small amount of heat available from a blowlamp would work given the huge heat sink effect of frame, swingarm etc. Possibly a gas welding torch but it is a bit medieval in that location.

I assume the pivot bolt nut can be removed but the bolt itself is seized in and won't rotate?

If that's the case I would apply a long breaker bar to the end of the bolt; if that doesn't work then an air driven impact gun - sometimes called a "rattle gun". The compressor and guns you can get from Lidl or Aldi are not usually man enough for this kind of job but you may be lucky if you can borrow one.

If you haven't got a man enough air impact gun, reassemble the bike and take a trip to one of the independent tyre fitting places (don't bother with Kwik Fit and their ilk - robbing B'strds).

Ask the friendly tyre fitter to apply one of their impact sockets and gun to loosen it off (remove the nut first, then refit when the bolt is loose).

This may cost you a couple of pints for the fitter but will be easier and less destructive.

It's what I used to do when I was faced with a stuck 36mm hub nut on VW campers - absolute sods....

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Simon

Brighton, UK