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XT660Z T�n�r� Tech Section Tyres, Mods, Luggage & Long distance preparation

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  # 1  
Old 22-03-12, 19:10
Ohlins Ohlins is offline
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XT660Z Oil Change. How to

I changed the oil along with the oil filter today on the XTZ....all 2.6 litres of it.

Buy your oil at whatever spec you need along with a filter.

I thought I'd take a few pictures and a step through guide for those who would like to change their own oil but never have. If you've never done it before why not give it a go and save time and labour?

First start the moto and run it for about 5mins on tick over to get the oil warmed up so as to flow out more easily,when it comes the time to drain it.

I have a centre stand so I keep it on it and let the moto tick over whilst I get tools organized.

You'll need a 13mm,17mm socket/spanner,and a 5mm allen key.(A torque wrench is optional but recommended )a funnel and two containers to catch the old oil.

Remove the engine oil filler cap (dipstick) from the top of the frame where the steering head bearings live...It should only be finger tight. Set it to one side where it can not get dirty.

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Next stage....Pretend my moto is clean....ahem.....the Yamaha manual states to remove the plastic sump guard.... (I keep mine on)...Take yours off if you want to(only 4 mounting screws underneath)

Remove the oil drain plug (13mm socket)on the lower part of the front down tube frame(called the Oil Tank) There'll be a copper washer so watch it doesn't part company with the drain bolt and get lost.







PUT A CONTAINER TO CATCH THE OIL RIGHT UP TO WHERE THE BOLT IS GETTING LOOSENED......IF NOT YOU WILL INDEED GET A SPOUT OF OIL UNDER PRESSURE SCOOTING OUT ONTO THE FRONT TYRE/WHEEL









(It doesn't really matter whether you start at the crankcase drain bolt or down tube drain bolt)

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

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After this move around to where the crankcase oil drain bolt is. You'll find it behind the gear lever. Loosen off with a 19mm socket and catch the oil with a second container.

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Whist the oil is draining move around to the oil filter element cover,on the other side of the engine.It has 'Oil Filter' embossed on it and it's held on with 3 allen key bolts.

[IMG] [/IMG]

Remove the bottom one first as this is the oil filter housing bleed screw. In my case the oil runs into the sump guard and out a hole into a container.

[IMG] [/IMG]

When oil ceases to flow or slows down considerably,gently remove the oil filter cover plate as shown(making sure the lower,orange colored oil seal doesn't fall out)

In the picture you can see that there is corrosion on one of my bolts. This is rubbed off before refitting with a wire brush. Coating with copper grease is a good idea afterwards. Check any o rings and replace if necessary...in my case all was well.

( By the by I only found one metallic piece of swarf on the filter)

[IMG] [/IMG]

Clean any left over oil on the oil filter cover with a clean rag.

[IMG] [/IMG]

Offer up the new filter to the oil filter cover after smearing clean engine oil on the rubber seals on each end of the oil filter....and set to one side.It can only go in one way by the by.

[IMG] [/IMG]

Before installing the oil filter...clean off any old oil with a clean rag from within the oil filter housing itself.

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

Offer up the oil filter cover and oil filter and gently line it up. Screw in the steel bolts and nip up tight. When nipped up..a good rule of thumb I use...is tighten a further eighth of a turn...that's all you'll need. Steel gets a good hold on soft alloy with out the need to over tighten . I have found in the past that sometimes when torquing engine casing bolts,such as these,that even at the specified 10Nm of torque,that the torque wrench can strip the threads...hence that eighth of a turn method!!

Install the crankcase oil drain bolt and torque to 30Nm

[IMG] [/IMG]


Make sure the oil drain bolt,for the down tube frame oil tank,has it's copper washer with it.

[IMG] [/IMG]

Screw in and torque to 18Nm

[IMG] [/IMG]

After this pour in,at the oil filler cap(dipstick) 1.9 litres of oil.

Put filler cap back on and start the engine and rev it 5 or 6 times then switch it off.

Remove oil filler cap again and put in an extra 0.7litres.

Start the engine and let it tick over,on level ground,(on centre stand)for about 5mins. Switch engine off. Remove oil filler dipstick cap,clean off with a clean rag and place the dipstick into the oil frame neck with out screwing it in...Remove and check oil level....Add oil if need be to bring it up to level. Repeat process to confirm all is well...

Give yourself a pat on the back and go straight out and buy beer with the money you've just saved..

__________________
The Suit:What would you consider to be your greatest weakness?
Me: Honesty.
The Suit: Honesty? I don't think honesty could be construed as a weakness.
Me: I don't give a f**k what you think.

.[IMG] [/IMG]

Last edited by Ohlins; 19-04-16 at 06:17.
  # 2  
Old 22-03-12, 20:29
Chris1811 Chris1811 is offline
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Great post and pics buddy....its funny I was just thinking about how to do that this evening whilst out bimbeling on the ten!
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Current mods:- Yamaha top box, Yamaha hanguards, Heated grips, High front fender, Aux lighting front/rear.

  # 3  
Old 22-03-12, 21:27
Ohlins Ohlins is offline
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Thanks for the kind words....

Great!!!...Give it a whirl and see how you get on?



.
__________________
The Suit:What would you consider to be your greatest weakness?
Me: Honesty.
The Suit: Honesty? I don't think honesty could be construed as a weakness.
Me: I don't give a f**k what you think.

.[IMG] [/IMG]
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  # 4  
Old 22-03-12, 21:30
Dick Dastardly Dick Dastardly is offline
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Thumbs up

This the second one of your "how to" posts I have read. Don't know if you could have your own section or sticky or something but every step explained and with a photo to boot!

I know a lot of us take the routine maintenance as it comes but for some it's a little harder.

Keep up the good work with the photos.
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  # 5  
Old 23-03-12, 06:51
Ohlins Ohlins is offline
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Why thank you kind Sir!

If anyone can get confidence to do at least one job them selves....then it's a start...and think of the money saved that can go for beer!!!


__________________
The Suit:What would you consider to be your greatest weakness?
Me: Honesty.
The Suit: Honesty? I don't think honesty could be construed as a weakness.
Me: I don't give a f**k what you think.

.[IMG] [/IMG]
  # 6  
Old 23-03-12, 11:38
ostapbender ostapbender is offline
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Thanks, very useful.
  # 7  
Old 23-03-12, 20:58
maxwell123455 maxwell123455 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohlins View Post
Why thank you kind Sir!

If anyone can get confidence to do at least one job them selves....then it's a start...and think of the money saved that can go for beer!!!


or more petrol to get out on your bike
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  # 8  
Old 23-03-12, 21:44
tacomodo tacomodo is offline
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I'll add my voice to the thank yous!
Being new to bikes in general, reading a guide like this, with pictures of the hidden magical things behind covers and such, really gives me a mind to try myself the next time!

So, thank you for the guide, hope to see more!
  # 9  
Old 26-03-12, 15:16
Ohlins Ohlins is offline
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Thanks inmates.....

There'll be other articles coming up when the maintenance schedule dictates...



.
__________________
The Suit:What would you consider to be your greatest weakness?
Me: Honesty.
The Suit: Honesty? I don't think honesty could be construed as a weakness.
Me: I don't give a f**k what you think.

.[IMG] [/IMG]
  # 10  
Old 03-04-12, 06:14
TenaRay Trev TenaRay Trev is offline
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Thanks Ohlins, was going to change the oil/filter in mine for the first time today, having bought the bike 2ndhand with 3500 kms on it, and now having done another 2000+ km I thought it was time.

Must admit, I stuggled slightly with the service manual description, especially when it came to the volume of oil (??).

Found your thread and followed it to the letter - all done. Bike's all ready now for the Flinders Ranges Classic in 3.5 weeks.

cheers
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