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  # 1  
Old 26-09-07, 19:18
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Conti TKC80 tubed or tubeless?

Going to ride about 8500 miles in January 2008. 7500+ miles will be on tarmac. The remainder on varying types of sand and gravel.

A TKC80 rear should cope with about 5000 miles and the front should do the whole trip. I'll be riding at speeds up to 90/95 mph on the tarmac. Not heavily laden, but I'm told that overheating inner tubes could be a problem.

Tubeless are simpler. Both have reinforced casings. Inner tube puncture could be easier to fix (just replace) by the roadside.

So the question is tubed or tubeless? Your views and advice would be welcome.
  # 2  
Old 26-09-07, 20:49
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Read THIS
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My Mods | TLC | A good spannering | Kev's brilliant Mods & advice via XTSupporters - Best �10 ever spent.Lucid Puppy && SeaMonkey - Wubi - - Boinc - electric sheep

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  # 3  
Old 27-09-07, 00:05
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I had read it, thanks. Kev's comments seem to be aimed more at the SM riders, but they are relevant to part of my question.
Cheers
  # 4  
Old 27-09-07, 05:23
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If you are riding long distance on the dirt & running tubeles tyres, I would take a tube as a back up as you can't pump a tubeless tyre on the side of the road.
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Mods that I have done to my XTX's

My 04 XTX
Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil /
[
My 07 XTX
Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator /

My 09 XTX
59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details

Now ride a 2018 MT09SP ABS + TCS

My KTM 990 SMR Mod book. http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4946

  # 5  
Old 27-09-07, 08:05
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Kev, but... how easy is to actually remove a valve from a rim adapted to tubeless tyres? I understand they are fitted at pressure in the rims and not really easy to take out. Also if you need to fit a tube roadside you are going to need some strong tyre levers with enough leverage length to pry the tyre off the rims and capable of wedging it back in. To my knowledge people with tubeless tyres carry those tyre plugging kits consisting of that corkscrew tool and the rubber plugs + glue.
  # 6  
Old 27-09-07, 10:34
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In my experience it's popping the bead that's the challange, all right if you're not solo, you can use your mates side stand but on yer todd it's a whole nasty, sweaty, swearing affair.
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  # 7  
Old 27-09-07, 11:44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptMoto
Kev, but... how easy is to actually remove a valve from a rim adapted to tubeless tyres? I understand they are fitted at pressure in the rims and not really easy to take out. Also if you need to fit a tube roadside you are going to need some strong tyre levers with enough leverage length to pry the tyre off the rims and capable of wedging it back in. To my knowledge people with tubeless tyres carry those tyre plugging kits consisting of that corkscrew tool and the rubber plugs + glue.
There are a few types of valves available today bolt on & pull through & don't really pose a problem when you get a puncture & normally are renewed when fitting a new tubeless tyre.

A skilled person can quite easily remove a tubeless tyre with tyre levers & protector blocks. When riding off road with tubeless or with a tube & you get a puncture with the uneven surface & extra load due to luggage, it is easy for the tyre to break the sealing beed from the rim & once that happens, you will need a compressor to pump up the tubeless tyres again. Rim locks on a tube wheel is best for the dirt, but no good for hi speed road use due to balance problems.

Tyre plugs are fast & easy to repair punctures for tubeless tyres as long as the entry point on the tread is not near the side wall of the tyre.

Heres something else you could look at, run flats http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4202393.html

For me I would run tubes for a long off road trip using Moose tubes http://www.pitposse.com/mohedutu.html the only thing with them is most of them are only rated to 80PMH. Some of the moose tubes can be twice as thick as a normal tube.

There is no hard rule here, there are pros & cons to tubeless verse tubes. It's all up to the rider & where they are riding.
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Click here to join the XT Supporter's scheme

Mods that I have done to my XTX's

My 04 XTX
Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil /
[
My 07 XTX
Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator /

My 09 XTX
59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details

Now ride a 2018 MT09SP ABS + TCS

My KTM 990 SMR Mod book. http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4946

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