How on earth do you compress the springs to get the spacer fitted back in?????

Been trying to fit this mod to my xtx.... and having extreme problems getting the spring compressed enough to get the cap back on.....

Please please help......

you dont need to compress the springs ,when you replace the cap screw it down very carefully and under a bit of pressure,as you dont want to cross thread it.i have made my own and they are a bit longer than kevs (he is an xt god ) and thats how i managed but be patient it will fit

You need to get the front wheel off the ground and then try. Basically you need the bike off the ground so that your forks are fully extended. Hope this helps.

So bike has to be off ground to get the caps back on?????

Thanks Warren

Mate after shooting my cap washer and spacer over the wall into the neighbours garden I got some bricks and an old tool box. I picked the front of the bike up and got my wife to shove the bricks and toolbox under the pipes.She then lent on the back of the bike to bring the front wheel up and the forks down. In other words I need to get a pit stand thingy. You still need a little bit of force to push them down but not as much as before.
Cheers
Warren

You should be able to fit the spacers with a downward pressure making sure you only strip one for at a time.

If you are having problems getting the cap back on, lift the front wheel off the ground, this will extend the forks fully & the cap should go straight on.


I have sold over 40 spacer kits & not encountered this problem, anyway I will add the lifting procedure to the fitting instructions of the spacer mod.

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Mods that I have done to my XTX's

My 04 XTX
Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil /
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My 07 XTX
Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator /

My 09 XTX
59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details

Now ride a 2018 MT09SP ABS + TCS

My KTM 990 SMR Mod book. http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4946

When I did mine I had the bike on a rear paddock stand and took the left cap off first.

Sure enough I couldn't compress the spring enough with the spacer to allow me to get the cap back on. However, all it took was someone to lift the front end of the bike enough to allow me to get the cap on. Having a spacer in the left fork leg made the right fork much easier to do - I needed no assistance from there.

To make the job easy, just prepare the bike by lifting the front end off the ground. By making the job easy you are less likely to strip the fork cap threads too.