Is there one? What should I be looking out for? Known issues?

To start with, have a read through some of the threads in the Reviews Section.

Generally the XT660R/X is a sturdy, practical and reliable bike. Other than all the usual stuff you’d look out for when buying any used bike (service records/evidence, chain and sprockets, tyre condition, clutch operation and gears select smoothly, play in head races/wheel bearings/suspension linkage, strange noises/rattles, corrosion etc.), the main things to watch on an XT660R/X are:

(1) Surging and jerkiness off a closed or partly open throttle. Some bikes are better than others. A lot depends on the age of the bike, what ECU is fitted and (if it’s a very early model) whether the TPS recall has been carried out. A lot of the roughness can be sorted, but again it’s easier to smooth things out with certain ECUs and not others. Have a read of these threads:

Check you haven’t got a dodgy TPS (early bikes): http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=948

Check you haven’t got a dodgy ECU (early bikes): http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=519

How to recognise the different ECUs and what can be done: http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=8546


(2) Cush drive gets sloppy very quickly and you will notice a lot of movement when you grab the rear sprocket and try and rotate it. If neglected, worn cush drive rubbers can lead to a failed sprocket carrier bearing and in some cases a broken carrier itself. A tight fitting cush drive is probably a good sign that a bike that’s been well cared for.

(3) The electrics are quite susceptible to water ingress, corroded connectors and abraded wires. Check that everything works as it should and there are no funny electrical gremlins. It’s always worth checking the alternator is punting out between 13.6 and 14.4V across the battery terminals – take a multimeter with you when inspecting a bike.

(4) Be VERY SUSPICIOUS if you don’t get the red master key with the bike (ideally with both other black keys too).

Other things to bear in mind: XTX models from 2007 have different bodywork, a cast alloy swingarm and an O2 sensor in the exhaust to provide closed loop fuelling management. XTR models stuck with the steel box swingarm and the same bodywork all the way through, although the R also got the O2 sensor from 2007. Obviously colours/graphics changed year on year too.

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Out of curiosity why should one be very suspicious if they don't receive the red master key? I didn't get one with my XTX when I purchased it from a dealer which is why I wondered!

Two reasons. Firstly because the red master key holds the immobiliser code and key information for your bike. Should it get in the wrong hands a fresh key(s) can be cut from it, but not only that but can be programmed to match your ECU. Your bike can then easily be stolen with a key. Generally insurance DON'T pay out if vehicles are stolen with a key!

Secondly, you will find it impossible, should you lose a black key (or god forbid both keys), to get new ones programmed to your immobilser/ECU. This can ONLY be done with a red key. Should you lose both keys and not have the red one in your possession you're looking at having to buy a new ECU, immobiliser transmitter, tank cap, ignition barrel and seat lock just to get going again.

I find it very strange, and somewhat worrying, that a dealer supplied a bike to you knowingly without the master key!

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Thanks for the reply, that is slightly disconcerting to say the least and if I had been wiser to it I would have asked for a discount on the bike....

So I really cant have another key made from one of the black ones I have?

My new insurance (on a different bike) also require me to submit all the correct keys in case of a theft claim.
I can see their reason but why do they discriminate bikers as this is not the case with cars.