Originally Posted by Pleiades

Dealing with the nut itself is relatively easy, it�s the just a bit of a faff removing everything to get to it. It is worth your while (as a supporter) downloading the free Yamaha Service Manual before you begin.



http://www.xt660.com/forumdisplay.php?f=58



Otherwise, before you start you will need to make sure you have got the following at hand:

• 2.9L of engine oil (and filter if you want to change that)
  
• 1.2L of coolant
  
• Water pump �O�-ring and gasket
  
• Right hand crankcase cover gasket
  
• Oil transfer pipe banjo crush washers
  
• Crankcase cover oil seal
  
• A new tab washer for the final drive nut
  
• A 36mm socket and torque wrench
  

First remove the water pump. Drain the engine oil (from tank and sump) and coolant using the coolant drain screw on water pump body (lower left hand bolt). Reinsert and tighten the drain screw when finished. Remove the hoses from the water pump body. You can remove the water pump as a whole unit by just undoing the three bolts with the recessed hex (Allen) heads (leave the other two in place). You can now take out the water pump.



Next take off the rear brake pedal. Then detach the oil transfer pipe from the crankcase cover.



Finally undo all the cover bolts working diagonally (undo opposing bolts in turn. Pull off the cover watching you don�t lose the two dowels.



To remove the crank nut normally you would have to lock the primary gears in place with a rag, wedge or I use an old leather belt, but if it�s loose, you won�t have to bother. Remove the tab washer and tighten the nut. Although it says tighten to 80Nm in the manual, we do know that those who have taken their bike to the dealer to have this problem rectified have had it tightened to 105Nm. Refit the tab washer and bend up the tabs.



Refitting the right hand crankcase cover is the reverse of taking it off except for the fitting of a new gasket and oil pipe crush washers (banjo bolt is 20Nm). You can also at this point fit a new oil seal in the back of the cover (under a retaining plate with two bolts), but this isn�t always necessary. Don�t forget to replace the water pump �O�-ring and any water pump gaskets you�ve disturbed. The torque for the cover bolts is only 10Nm, which isn�t that tight, so be careful!



Refit the hoses, brake pedal etc. Change the oil filter if you want, then fill the engine oil and coolant.

Originally Posted by robmoz

Hi Pleiades does it look like I'll need 6 banjo washers? I have 4 but looking at it there is another banjo bolt that's coming on top of the oil filter to the engine.

Originally Posted by Pleiades

Sorry, I forgot to mention that one. Easily forgotten when you've got an XTZ as it's completely hidden behind the coolant reservoir!

Yes, you will need six if you remove the gearbox transfer pipe completely. You can leave one end or the gearbox transfer pipe attached to the either the crankcase or the cover though, so only a total of two banjos are disturbed doing the job.

Originally Posted by Pleiades

Dealing with the nut itself is relatively easy, it�s the just a bit of a faff removing everything to get to it. It is worth your while (as a supporter) downloading the free Yamaha Service Manual before you begin.

http://www.xt660.com/forumdisplay.php?f=58

Otherwise, before you start you will need to make sure you have got the following at hand:

• 2.9L of engine oil (and filter if you want to change that)
• 1.2L of coolant
• Water pump �O�-ring and gasket
• Right hand crankcase cover gasket
• Oil transfer pipe banjo crush washers
• Crankcase cover oil seal
• A new tab washer for the final drive nut
• A 36mm socket and torque wrench

First remove the water pump. Drain the engine oil (from tank and sump) and coolant using the coolant drain screw on water pump body (lower left hand bolt). Reinsert and tighten the drain screw when finished. Remove the hoses from the water pump body. You can remove the water pump as a whole unit by just undoing the three bolts with the recessed hex (Allen) heads (leave the other two in place). You can now take out the water pump.

Next take off the rear brake pedal. Then detach the oil transfer pipe from the crankcase cover.

Finally undo all the cover bolts working diagonally (undo opposing bolts in turn. Pull off the cover watching you don�t lose the two dowels.

To remove the crank nut normally you would have to lock the primary gears in place with a rag, wedge or I use an old leather belt, but if it�s loose, you won�t have to bother. Remove the tab washer and tighten the nut. Although it says tighten to 80Nm in the manual, we do know that those who have taken their bike to the dealer to have this problem rectified have had it tightened to 105Nm. Refit the tab washer and bend up the tabs.

Refitting the right hand crankcase cover is the reverse of taking it off except for the fitting of a new gasket and oil pipe crush washers (banjo bolt is 20Nm). You can also at this point fit a new oil seal in the back of the cover (under a retaining plate with two bolts), but this isn�t always necessary. Don�t forget to replace the water pump �O�-ring and any water pump gaskets you�ve disturbed. The torque for the cover bolts is only 10Nm, which isn�t that tight, so be careful!

Refit the hoses, brake pedal etc. Change the oil filter if you want, then fill the engine oil and coolant.

Originally Posted by robmoz

As the title says I'm after an idiots guide for tightening the final drive nut. I've a rattle coming from the right side and listening to diff vids with that problem it sounds similar.



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Originally Posted by bikemad195

do u often catch the limiter? ive done mine 3 times but ive now realised if i dont hit the limiter it seems fine ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nyk4PWGVQgw

Originally Posted by robmoz

Not often to be honest. I mostly hear it when i first start the engine. Not so bad later


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