After stripping the back end to fit a new exhaust; I went too far and removed the tray with all the electrics, leaving them dangling. When I eventually got them back in the tray, I am left with a dead dashboard. The engine starts and it runs fine (new exhaust sounds great!), just no dash. Could somebody tell me which bit of the electrics I should be looking at? I assume I've dislodged a wire or fuse or something, but I don't know where to start in the bowl of spaghetti that is the electrics tray.
Cheers all.

Try fuse number 7 first (10A one at the end). This one supplies the power to the instruments.

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Stuff the dash..........we want photos of the new exhaust!!!!

Nope; unfortunately not the fuse. Any ideas? Cheers.

The next step would be to check there is power at the fuse holder. If you've got a multimeter, remove the fuse and check you're getting ~12.5V at the fuse holder. This fuse way should be live with the ignition off as well as on because it also serves as the back-up for the odometer/clock.

If there is no voltage there, then the fault lies before the fuse box. If there is ~12.5V, then the fault is on the dash side, which should narrow things down.

A poor earth is next to try. The dash has its own earth to the battery as well as sharing that of the ECU.

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OK, I'll have to get hold of a multimetre.
Pic for Sandman:

A "must have" piece of kit really IMHO, and quite cheap to boot.

When you get hold of one, you can also do the following checks after you've check the voltages at fuse-way 7:

(1) At the dash multi-connector... Check you have battery voltage at the red/white wire when ignition is switched on (supplied from fuse number 4). I'm assuming fuse 4 is good, as the bike wouldn't start if it was duff.

(2) At the dash multi-connector... Check there is battery voltage at the red/green wire when the ignition is off (supplied from fuse number 7).

(3) At the dash multi-connector... Check continuity to earth/ground at the black/white wire.

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Oooh, me likey

Who makes that then??

It's an Exan exhaust.