What MODs guys ? - .: XT660.com

Gibbo1974 · # 1 12-08-13, 16:53

Ok the bike is lovely and I'm still getting used to her, I love the way she pulls along at anything over 4000rpm but damn it is she a slouch under 3000rpm

So what mods should I do and in what order ?

What ones will make the most difference to the bottom end of the rev range ?

I don't really want to drill big holes in my airbox as I plan one day to do some trips that will certainly have river crossings along the way in the near future so want to keep my wading depth as high as poss.

I don't need anymore top end grunt as it's lovely up near the top end.

I see DNA this and that, kev's mod, Power commander, O2 sensor box, stage 1/2/3 etc etc but I'm having trouble figuring out what has most benefits down low....

cheers guys....

Gas_Up_Lets_Go · # 2 12-08-13, 17:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gibbo1974

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What ones will make the most difference to the bottom end of the rev range ?

In my opinion:

Snorkel Removed and a DNA Stage 1 retainer,
DNA Stage 2 Air Filter
PC-v

This makes the whole bike more responsive, pulls better from low, mid and high revs. You could use the KevMod Fuel modification rather than the PC-v (think of it as a PowerCommander-lite, it does enough but not the same as a PC-v)

An MTC single can

This brought the really low range torque up, the bike can now pull much better from under 2000revs. You'll loose a few Kg's from the rear end of the bike too, makes it easier to pick up!!

KevMod O2 Tuner

This made the bike much less 'lumpy' at low revs, increased the pick up a little, but just made the bike feel much more refined.

The three mods above are what I've done, and the order. If I was to do it again, I'd go for the DNA/KevMode fuel mod and the O2 mod first then the can. The O2 tuner wasn't available when I got the can, which is why I did it the way I did.

---------------------

Other ways to change the bike,

HyperPro Progressive Springs kit - Others are available now. The front end can be a little 'wishy-washy' if you push it hard into corners or even on the dirt. The �80 or so for a new spring kit will make the front end much more responsive, it will improve the braking and feel totally different.

Balance it up with a rear progressive spring and the bike changes a little more.

I do believe, if you look in the for sale section there are some progressive front springs for sale at a very reasonable price.......

----------------------

Lots of other ways to change the bike;

Bar Riser,
Brush Guards
Wide Pegs (cheapo ones form eBay are pretty good)
Renthal Enduro bars are a good consideration rather than risers, the sweep is different and gives a more natural feel, I think so anyway.

There are loads of ways to use up your spare cash......

SimonRoma · # 3 12-08-13, 18:41

Excellent response!!!! And ps please send me some of this so called spare cash that needs soaking up hehehe.....

Gibbo1974 · # 4 12-08-13, 20:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gas_Up_Lets_Go

In my opinion:

Snorkel Removed and a DNA Stage 1 retainer,
DNA Stage 2 Air Filter
PC-v

This makes the whole bike more responsive, pulls better from low, mid and high revs. You could use the KevMod Fuel modification rather than the PC-v (think of it as a PowerCommander-lite, it does enough but not the same as a PC-v)

An MTC single can

This brought the really low range torque up, the bike can now pull much better from under 2000revs. You'll loose a few Kg's from the rear end of the bike too, makes it easier to pick up!!

KevMod O2 Tuner

This made the bike much less 'lumpy' at low revs, increased the pick up a little, but just made the bike feel much more refined.

The three mods above are what I've done, and the order. If I was to do it again, I'd go for the DNA/KevMode fuel mod and the O2 mod first then the can. The O2 tuner wasn't available when I got the can, which is why I did it the way I did.

---------------------

Other ways to change the bike,

HyperPro Progressive Springs kit - Others are available now. The front end can be a little 'wishy-washy' if you push it hard into corners or even on the dirt. The �80 or so for a new spring kit will make the front end much more responsive, it will improve the braking and feel totally different.

Balance it up with a rear progressive spring and the bike changes a little more.

I do believe, if you look in the for sale section there are some progressive front springs for sale at a very reasonable price.......

----------------------

Lots of other ways to change the bike;

Bar Riser,
Brush Guards
Wide Pegs (cheapo ones form eBay are pretty good)
Renthal Enduro bars are a good consideration rather than risers, the sweep is different and gives a more natural feel, I think so anyway.

There are loads of ways to use up your spare cash......

Wow now there's an answer and a half, thanks soooo much....

So is the PCv a power commander 5? do I need to buy one especially for the Ten?

Snorkel removal is easy but the filter inside then flaps around, does the DNA one do that ? or is that what's meant by retainer?

DNA stage 2 ? why do I need that as well as the stage 1 ? are there two filters ? I don't want the one that is the big open sided box, I' will assume that is the stage 3 ???

Single can? sounds good to me, is it really loud, would like to try and avoid too much noise as I set off early sometimes..

so much to do, I love it....

Gas_Up_Lets_Go · # 5 12-08-13, 21:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gibbo1974

So is the PCv a power commander 5? do I need to buy one especially for the Ten?

Yes, a PC-v is a PowerCommander 5. Simon is your best bet at PowerTech, he used to give discounts to forum members ->

http://www.powertech.uk.com/

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gibbo1974

Snorkel removal is easy but the filter inside then flaps around, does the DNA one do that ? or is that what's meant by retainer?

The snorkel is fixed to the plate that holds the air filter in place, you can cut the snorkel out, leaving a plate with a hole in it, what I referred to as the 'retainer' Personally, I don't like doing mods that are not reversible, so I didn't want to cut the snorkel out, I purchased the DNA Stage 1, which is the 'retainer' as described above, but it's more sturdy than the adapted Yamaha part with the snorkel cut out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gibbo1974

DNA stage 2 ? why do I need that as well as the stage 1 ? are there two filters ? I don't want the one that is the big open sided box, I' will assume that is the stage 3 ???

Stage 2 is the replacement air filter, it lets ALOT more air through (you can't run the bike without a PC-v/Kevmod fuel mod) and will last a lifetime.
Stage 3 is a replacement side panel to the airbox, and can be used in addition to the Stage 2, although not many have gone this far.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gibbo1974

Single can? sounds good to me, is it really loud, would like to try and avoid too much noise as I set off early sometimes.

Some people say they are loud, mine isn't so loud, it is still under 90db's but has a very deep sound. MTC will make a can up to your requirements if you talk to them first. Again, MTC will give forum discount.

Gibbo1974 · # 6 12-08-13, 22:05

Great info yet again and thanks so much...

How about just putting on a single MTC exhaust and the DNA filters ?

Would that be enough ? MTC say the pipes run full power without having to alter the fuelling.

so i'm think let it suck a bit more in and spit a bit more out ????

WeaveMcQuilt · # 7 12-08-13, 22:49

The order I did mine in:

O2 Sensor Mod - For me, this made the biggest bit of difference. Low down, it's just beautiful.

DNA - Stage 1 (This is the filter)
DNA - Stage 2 (This is the filter cover to replace the snorkel)

Kev Fuel Mod - To adjust the mix, after you put a hoofing great new filter in.

De-Cat exhaust. I bought mine from someone on here, it's exactly the same as redbikejohn's exhaust detailed here: http://www.redbikejohn.com/Tenere%20...s%20Review.htm

You could easily find someone local to you who can do stainless welding to cut out the cat from your exhaust, drill out the pipes and re-weld it for about �40

The decat stock exhaust is louder, but only when you give it some beans.
On tickover and pottering along, its not really that much louder.

But it really does go some, especially in the 60-100mph range.

Does fart a lot more, but I like it like that! Pop pop pop pop BANG!
You can always do the AIS mod to stop this...

The stock exhaust weighs a bloody ton though, and is a complete arse to get it off.

Have to remove the entire rear of the bike, including the tail lights, rear light wiring loom, seat, topbox mounts and everything attached.

I've spent about �250 in mods for my bike and it's worth every penny.

uberthumper · # 8 12-08-13, 22:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gas_Up_Lets_Go

Some people say they are loud, mine isn't so loud,

Mine is quite loud now because I've lost another ****ing baffle. First one the screw fell out, fair enough. This one the screw is still there, along with the nut that used to be welded to the baffle.

minkyhead · # 9 12-08-13, 20:05

but I'm having trouble figuring out what has most benefits down low....

cheers guys....[/QUOTE]
ive got a foam filter snorkel removed ..kev mod and cat cut out ....but

the single biggest inprovment ia a simple 14 tooth front sprocket
the stock gearing is simply too tall truth be told ..

Pleiades · # 10 13-08-13, 08:55

As above - You won't get any tangible benefit from just fitting the filters alone. No point getting more air into an already lean running motor! Getting the AF ratio down is the key to getting more power from the XT.

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