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  # 1  
Old 17-12-12, 23:24
TenaRay Trev TenaRay Trev is offline
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Rear Brake Locks Up Too Easily

Hi all,

Discussing this with other Oz 660Z riders and they mainly agree with me. My rear brake seems to lock up without too much effort on my part. This causes me some distinct directional and stability problems when going downhill, on smooth dirt or loose stones and turning corners - all at the same time.

In an emergency (caused mostly by me), it's almost impossible to bring the bike to a stop without locking up the rear, and this happens on bitumen too!

The bike's only done 5000 miles so I would imagine that they are the original brake pads.

Any ideas??
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  # 2  
Old 17-12-12, 23:51
Metzy Metzy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TenaRay Trev View Post
Hi all,

Discussing this with other Oz 660Z riders and they mainly agree with me. My rear brake seems to lock up without too much effort on my part. This causes me some distinct directional and stability problems when going downhill, on smooth dirt or loose stones and turning corners - all at the same time.

In an emergency (caused mostly by me), it's almost impossible to bring the bike to a stop without locking up the rear, and this happens on bitumen too!

The bike's only done 5000 miles so I would imagine that they are the original brake pads.

Any ideas??
Try bleeding a little bit of air into the system, I do this on my WR as I have a habit of riding the rear brake.
  # 3  
Old 18-12-12, 00:49
cca cca is offline
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Weight distribution and suspension settings?
  # 4  
Old 18-12-12, 05:04
66T 66T is offline
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Trev, if your brake is that drastic, what I'd do is reduce the pad-to-disc contact area by grinding part of the friction material away from the end (or middle I guess) of each pad. Steady is good here. You don't want a weak brake (mine is for some reason. Probably got silicon spray on it). Also you have to ensure the pads are even.
Another variation I haven't tried is cutting vertical slots in the pad material, again to reduce contact area.
It might pay to have a spare set of pads handy in case of experiment overkill...
I don't know how altered pads react under severe road pressures, so be careful mate. Good in the dirt, though.
  # 5  
Old 18-12-12, 10:43
TenaRay Trev TenaRay Trev is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cca View Post
Weight distribution and suspension settings?
Could be, but have had both ends done and so many others over here in Oz are having the same problem. It could be the pads they have here 'cause some say that they have fixed it by replacing them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 66T View Post
Trev, if your brake is that drastic, what I'd do is reduce the pad-to-disc contact area by grinding part of the friction material away from the end (or middle I guess) of each pad. Steady is good here. You don't want a weak brake (mine is for some reason. Probably got silicon spray on it). Also you have to ensure the pads are even.
Another variation I haven't tried is cutting vertical slots in the pad material, again to reduce contact area.
It might pay to have a spare set of pads handy in case of experiment overkill...
I don't know how altered pads react under severe road pressures, so be careful mate. Good in the dirt, though.
Used to do that to car ones to take out the squeal sometimes. Might try that as I have a set from Off The Road sitting in the shed ready to go on.

It's a pain in the backside though because it only happens when I REALLY don't want it to.....

Thanks for your input guys.
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  # 6  
Old 18-12-12, 10:44
TenaRay Trev TenaRay Trev is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metzy View Post
Try bleeding a little bit of air into the system, I do this on my WR as I have a habit of riding the rear brake.
That sounds like a good suggestion too, Cheers.
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  # 7  
Old 18-12-12, 10:54
Gas_Up_Lets_Go Gas_Up_Lets_Go is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TenaRay Trev View Post
My rear brake seems to lock up without too much effort on my part.
Tyres ?

Too hard, too soft, crappy compound ?

Are the brakes binding ? try clearing out and lubricating the inside of the caliper.
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  # 8  
Old 18-12-12, 11:57
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Easy fix, lower the brake pedal.
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My 04 XTX
Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil /
[
My 07 XTX
Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator /

My 09 XTX
59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details

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  # 9  
Old 18-12-12, 12:56
Ohlins Ohlins is offline
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Change to organic pads instead of sintered.....

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  # 10  
Old 18-12-12, 17:42
Dick Dastardly Dick Dastardly is offline
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Buy a Ducati Multistrada as they come with NO back brake as standard.!!!
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