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XT660Z T�n�r� Tech Section Tyres, Mods, Luggage & Long distance preparation

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  # 1  
Old 29-04-12, 16:19
michaelks michaelks is offline
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New engine oil change at 100 km

I read long ago , here :

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/NewBike.html

quote :

"When you take out your factory oil, if you hold it up in the sunlight you'll see the color is very good, it looks almost completely unused, but you'll see lots of reflections from metal flakes in the oil. These flakes are very bad for your engine, and can clog up your oil filter so that your filter bypass is activated, meaning you effectively don't have an oil filter. Notice that the factory says you should still be using the factory oil and oil filter. I think this is insane. "



that the first couple hours running a new engine would generate a huge amount of metallic sludge that it would be good to get rid of as soon as possible. I've applied this to the new honda XR 250 I bought a few years ago and now to my new T�n�r�, but this time the result was much more visible. The oil was a metallic grey and it seems the filter was already overwhelmed by the amount of metal that it picked up. I suppose that running the bike up to the regular 1000 km first oil change with that kind of sludge in the motor wouldn't be a good thing to do (think of all the finely machined parts, such as bearings). Let the pictures speak for themselves : The filter at 100 km first oil change :








Lineup of filters from 100, 200 and 500 km oil changes :

  # 2  
Old 30-04-12, 04:48
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Kev Kev is offline
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Thanks for the info I am sure some of the guys will find it interesting.

I hope you used mineral oil in the motor during the running in period, otherwise you could have problems with oil usage on your XT motor, these motors have chrome bores & need mineral oil to bed the rings in.

Looking at your link, I disagree with using synthetic oil in a chrome bore while running in the motor XT660 motor & I speak for 32 years experience of being a mechanic, from your link there are so many holes in the mans statements it is a joke, one being a he considers a modern motorcycle motor anything from 1985, please where have you been, engine materials have changed so much in the last 10 years & the oils have progreed so much as well, you can't say every motor in the world needs the same running procudure that is rubbish.

If there were no signs of metal in your oil I would be surprised as this is quite normal for a motor that is ruining in. The XT filters are designed to run past 10000kms/60000miles you are waisting you money replacing them every 100kms during the running in period.

Not getting up you, there is no problem changing oil at any time interval just be carefull what you read on the internet.
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Mods that I have done to my XTX's

My 04 XTX
Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil /
[
My 07 XTX
Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator /

My 09 XTX
59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details

Now ride a 2018 MT09SP ABS + TCS

My KTM 990 SMR Mod book. http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4946


Last edited by Kev; 30-04-12 at 08:43.
  # 3  
Old 30-04-12, 13:05
michaelks michaelks is offline
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Didn't know about synthetic oil being bad for seating the rings, living & learning. I use Motul 5100, semi-synthetic, but since that went in only after the first hours running the engine, much of the seating would already have occurred, or at least that is what i'd like to think. Anyway, the oil and filter both looked so bad after 100 km I decided to change again at 200 to see what would come out, and this time around it may have been unnecessary, but still i'm glad that first oil wasn't in the engine for very long. It's a small expense compared to what a new bike costs, and it doesn't hurt to be on the safe side. It's also interesting to notice that even so the 500 km filter looks slightly better than the 200 km one. And yes, surely oil filters are designed to last a long time, but that's under normal operating conditions.

Interestingly, these frequent oil/filter changes for new engines are recommended elsewhere, as here for example:

http://www.sacoriver.net/~red/breakin.html
  # 4  
Old 30-04-12, 13:47
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Kev Kev is offline
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The oil filter is there to catch all the metal particles, the oil will not break down during the running in period, if there was a problem we would see it in the industry.

As mentioned I have been a in the motor industry for 32 years & have never seen any problems running the oil & filter to the recommended service interval. I deal with 90 to 100 vehicles a day in the workshop I run, we sell around 150 units a month, if there was a problem we would see it.

I think these articles put fear into riders, I wonder how many motors these guys are stripping a week to test there theory's long term.

In your last link the man is talking about chokes & jetting we left carburetors many years ago, I would like to see him measure crankcase pressure on a 2 stroke when running it in.
__________________
Click here to join the XT Supporter's scheme

Mods that I have done to my XTX's

My 04 XTX
Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil /
[
My 07 XTX
Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator /

My 09 XTX
59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details

Now ride a 2018 MT09SP ABS + TCS

My KTM 990 SMR Mod book. http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4946


Last edited by Kev; 30-04-12 at 14:01.
  # 5  
Old 30-04-12, 14:45
Metzy Metzy is offline
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I changed my OE oil at 1000km with mineral 15w50 Yamaha oil due to being 12 months old (bike was a dealer demo). Then at 2500km I changed to full synthetic Motul 300v so far at the 4000km mark the oil level is unchanged. I think 10000km on a mineral oil is a bit too much for the oil, the mineral oil that had done 1500km was discoloured and smelt like it needed to be changed. Now that the Motul has done 1500km it has hardly discoloured and doesn't smell bad either, another 1000km and it will be changed.
  # 6  
Old 30-04-12, 16:20
michaelks michaelks is offline
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This is coffee filter paper that a beaker of the first oil drained through; it's clear to see that there's plenty of fine metal in the oil, the oil filter nonwithstanding.



A friend of mine I talked about this with, having worked for a bearing manufacturer, told me about the very strict quality control procedure there concerning metal residues that might be left over from the machining process, and he found it quite possible that in this case this oil containing metal particles would be damaging to the bearings in the engine in the long run. I would definitely flush that out as soon as I could.

Still it is reassuring to learn that no significant problems have been noted with the standard procedure.

Just speculating, that might be because the hard metal filings coming from the crankcase (that could really cause damage) would indeed be efficiently caught by the oil filter, and this greyish matter still present in the oil, being softer metal (from the cylinder wall maybe ?) would not be so harmful.

If it came from the cyilinder, well that would mean my rings have set properly, wouldn't it ?
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