Well, picked her up today and spent the day zumming around. For the last 5 years ive been riding my Fazer 1000 which has been jetted, new K-tech springs on the front and new R6 shock on the rear. Riding the Ten for the first time was…err…well…different.



Stalled it about 5 times in 20 meters, then I realised you need to twist the throttle about a 3rd of the way around to get it going. Its tall, bouncy, vibey and absolutely brilliant, I love it.

The engine braking is immense, all day I've have hardly touched the brakes…theres no need. Ive quickly realised this isn’t like riding the Fazer and had to change my riding style.

Its quite snatchy in 1st and 2nd which I imagine is fun on a wet roundabout whith knobblies. And the side stand seems quite long, bike sits virtually upright on it.





The biggest problem I have is the gear and rear brake lever. On my fazer I had to adjust them too, I need them set lower. This will enable me to keep my heels on the pegs and still use the levers. At a guess I reckon both need lowering about 10mm, (prob had to lower the fazer ones 7mm?)

Foot controls
Due to this I can only use (the very good) back brake by lifting my foot up off the peg then onto the brake lever. This gives you no control, so its either on or off. I use my rear brake a lot, especially when doing u-turns and in traffic (slow speed control by dragging the rear brake) Can these levers been lowered then? The gear lever looks like I can take it off and put it back onto the spline shaft in a lower position.

Bars
I think I might need some bar risers. In boots im 6'4" or maybe a tad taller. When sitting down the riding position is nice but when standing up they feel a little low, I have to kinda lean down/forward.

Zorst
I like the sound, especially the pops on the over run. Really like the MTC single cans but ive heard there quite fruity, not too suitable for green laning?

All in all I think the Ten is great, cant wait to start tinkering with it and using it off road.

Yes, both lever can be moved. The brake is adjusted behind the heal guard and the gear is a case of removing the bolt, sliding the lever off and re-fitting a splin further around (and then refit the bolt!)


MTC... I have these, and yes you have to be aware, but it never puts me off. Pop along to the Lakes meet and listen for yourself.....

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Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

The rear brake pedal you'll find can be adjusted lower, but only a little, it may not be enough (it wasn't for me). The locknut kind of gets in the way and uses up most of the space thread space on the adjuster. To gain a little bit extra room for adjustment, take off the lock nut and cut in half (or find a thinner nut) - worked a treat for me.

As for the side stand; with fresh suspension and standard ride height the Z sits at a reasonably secure angle on the side stand? On mine I found that as the rear shock slowly died (about 10K miles) the bike stood more and more upright to the point, especially with luggage, that it was practically vertical and very precarious. It could be that, or maybe it's had lowering links fitted at some point in the past? I see that the bike has been "Metal Muled" - screen, radiator guard, chain guard, which could suggest that MM lowering links may have been part of that bulk buy?

I must compliment you on the super sparkling spokes on the front wheel , a rare sight on most XTZs!

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yeah it has been Metal Muled! i dont like the chain guard though, its cheap looking.

im pretty sure the bike hasnt been lowered. Its done 3.7k so the suspension is decent. Glad you said the standard shock went a bit droopy at 10K as i was going to ask how long they last. Is it something a rebuild sorts out?

i looked at the brake lever and it adjusts lke my fazer. I have the pedal on that as low as it will go and its o.k but the Ten looks like i wont be able to drop it low enough. How the hell did you cut a small nut in half??? Any aftermarket rear brake levers?

it sounds like a stupid thing but i really relay on my rear brake and being able to use it easily is very important.

Non-rebuildable I'm afraid so new shock or a re-spring. Re-springing with a Hyperpro or such will work because it is the OE Sachs spring that fails, less so the damping.

With a good hacksaw, although it's probably easier to grind it down, either way works.

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i would definitely definitely use a grinder...