Just ordered a few parts from work HH brakepads, renthal bars and a 14 tooths front sprocket.

1, do i need to break the chain to fit the new front sprocket?
2, do renthal bars (specifically the low braced enduro ones) have the small holes drilled for the switch gear ass'y? if not is it better to drill the holes or file off the little bits that would go in?

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...On a steel horse i ride.

Dunno about the bars but you dont need to break the chain. Just slacken and lift off the rear sprocket then you have enough free to change the sprocket. .

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Touratech big guard. Yamaha handlebar guards. Pivot Pegz. Yam main stand. Camel Toe. 30 mm risers. 14 tooth front sprocket. Big balls. Old and not wise.

cheers mate, that was the big question that really needed answering,
thatnks for quick rep.

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...On a steel horse i ride.

Can't help with 1, but having just fitted an RC high fat bar, I can help with the 2nd. My Renthal bars came without the holds to locate the switchgear, I suspect yours will come without the holes too, you really need to drill the holes as without these the switchgear will slide all over the place, and it will be dangerous. Drilling the holes is easy, but you need to Mark them with a dot punch prior to drilling or the bit will just make a mess of your new bars. Holding the bars in a vice will make things easier. After fitting the bars and the new lightweight end weights the bike was unridable, the vibrations were seriously bad. The next step was to tap the inside of the bars to take the original bar end weights. easy job as the bars are soft, but had to buy the taps and handle which cost 140 euros for a single job after fitting the end weights the Ten was back to better than ever, the vibes have gone. If you need the taps for the original end weights, pm me your address and I can post these to you, once you're done, just post them back to me. You only pay the postage. Good luck with the fitting, measure thrice, drill once!

thanks mate ill deffinatly keep that in mind when fitting the new bars but ive ridden since new without any bar end weights and i dont find the vibrations intrusive at all (comes from only ever riding sigles and twins) and the vibes on the Ten are a fraction of that of a harley

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...On a steel horse i ride.

Just to contradict, I fitted Magura fat bars to my Ten and did not drill the holes out. You get them wrong and your gear points in the wrong direction. Then what? Drill again? Also with the stubs filed off there is plenty grip to hold the switch gear in place. If it doesn't work for you all you need to do is get new inserts with the stubs. I also like the idea of the gear being twisted round the bar if the bike is dropped rather than the levers snapping off. The surface finish on the bars may have something to do with the security of the gear. The Maguras are not smooth.
Regarding the vibrations they almost disappeared with the new bars without the weights. There is no reason for me to alter the bars just to put weights on.
Hope I haven't confused things too much

Rob

I fitted the Renthal High Bar....

I didn't drill them either, and the switchgear did move a little. Easily sorted with some gaffa tape (black) around the bars where the switch gear is located. With new bars you will need a little trial and error to get the levers where you want them, and not everyone is the same.

The vibrations, I find are increased with the Renthals, or maybe because I swapped the Yamaha OE handguards for Barkbusters at the same time, I don't know the cause, but it's not a problem for me so I've not bothered to investigate.

To fit the front sprocket, you just need to 'un-adjust' your chain to allow some movement, and you'll need a good breaker bar to crack the sprocket nut. Cracking the nut should be done before you move your chain, so you can use your rear brake to keep the (drive) nut solid.

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Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

cheers for the replies, as for the bars im just gonna file away the lugs and pack with tape.

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...On a steel horse i ride.