At what tempreture does the fan kick in? i ask because ive been on some long fast rides in the last month and the bike has cut out as soon as a turn the throttle (i assume this is to do with overheating) but the fan has not once kicked in since ive had the bike.
Any ideas?

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Have you checked the fuse?

The Tenere doesn't get especially hot - however, while I was in the US I found a stone had jammed the fan blades, and subsequently the fuse had blown on the odd occasion it had got hot, so the fan never cut in... I only realized once the coolant started boiling over...

If the fuse is good, then maybe you could just leave the bike running until it gets hot enough for the fan to come on? If it doesn't after about 5 minutes, then there is probably a problem with the thermostat switch or something?

Jx

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Thanx ill try that, see what i find.

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I've has mine Z for nearly three years and don't ever recall the fan coming on. I'm pretty sure I saw somewhere in an old post that the fan doesn't cut in till coolant gets to 105C!! I guess it then turns off again a good few degrees lower than this. If this is right(?) it suggests to me that leaving it idling till the fan comes on might mean you've got a long wait anyway, even if it is working!?

Kev would probably have the definitive on/off temperatures?

It cuts in at 105...on an R

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I have the bike for almost 2 years, but it never went on.

My previous BMW was almost continuously blowing hot air on my legs

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Yep.

As you are a XT Supporter, you can download the Workshop Manual. In there is a flow chart to tell you what to check, in which order and how to do it.

You need nothing more than a simple multimeter - under a �tenner from Maplin-type-shops, or �50 from Halfords! You might even have one in HG!

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I would not think it would be related to over heating.

You say it cuts out, when, coming down to idle & you blip the throttle or from idle opening the throttle, or under what conditions does it cut out?

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Mods that I have done to my XTX's

My 04 XTX
Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil /
[
My 07 XTX
Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator /

My 09 XTX
59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details

Now ride a 2018 MT09SP ABS + TCS

My KTM 990 SMR Mod book. http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4946

It cuts out when when i blip the throttle after comming down the gears slowing from speed (islands, junctions ect) if i let go quick enough it stays running if not it cuts out.

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Is there air in the cooling system? I had a situation where the radiator was leaking and even though I had filled both the radiator and the reservoir, the temperature sensor didn't give any readings when it should have. Probably an air bubble where the temperature sensor is. After I got the radiator fixed, a mechanic that I know gave me a tip on bleeding the system by leaving the radiator and reservoir caps open and letting the engine idle for ten minutes. The coolant poors out a bit but so does the air. After ten minutes let the engine cool down a bit before adding coolant to adjust the level. This worked fine for me.

The service manual says that you can test the temperature sensor by measuring the resistances in three different temperatures (each temperature giving different readings): 20, 80 and 110 degrees. From this I figured that 80 degrees must be when the fan should go on and 110 degrees when the engine overheating light turns on. I'm not sure of this though.

Have you tried letting the engine run on idle for 10-15 minutes? That should turn the fan on.

Jami