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General Help Section Members help each other here with tips and tricks about mods / maintenance and servicing based on their own experiences

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  # 1  
Old 02-08-10, 11:03
piggar piggar is offline
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solution to the cush drive problem

Like most other XTX owners I've had to replace the cush rubbers in the rear hub way too often.
After the third set of rubbers I took a closer look at the hub design.
Looking at the bearing boss on the wheel I saw evidence of contact with the sprocket carrier pocket, this should not occur, as there is clearance between the two.
The solitary bearing in the carrier is not up to supporting the load from the drive chain and twists under load and makes contact with the bearing boss.
(your hub will probably show scarring from this contact like mine did in 2nd picture).
This twisting action chews the rubbers to pieces inside the hub.
My solution was to bore out the pocket in the sprocket carrier and press in and loctite a machined plastic bush (UHMWPE) with a clearance between the bearing boss and bush of about 0.2 mm ( just enough to allow the hub to rotate without binding), I then coated the bush / boss contact with grease and assembled (1st picture).
That was around 5000 km ago and the rubbers are looking good, there is still some wear as the rubber is crap but the rapid destruction has gone.
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File Type: jpg DSCN0381 (704 x 528).jpg (72.4 KB, 131 views)
  # 2  
Old 02-08-10, 11:14
66T 66T is offline
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That's a clever solution, mate. By the look of the design, there shouldn't be as much flex as there obviously is. Might explain chain derailment, to some degree, when combined with wear in all the external driveline components.
  # 3  
Old 02-08-10, 11:42
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Kev Kev is offline
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Nice find, they should never touch like that, I would be replacing the sprocket holder bearing as well.

Even with my 57HP XT motor the sprocket holder did not touch the wheel hub, like that.
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Mods that I have done to my XTX's

My 04 XTX
Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil /
[
My 07 XTX
Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator /

My 09 XTX
59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details

Now ride a 2018 MT09SP ABS + TCS

My KTM 990 SMR Mod book. http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4946

  # 4  
Old 03-08-10, 01:47
piggar piggar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev View Post
Nice find, they should never touch like that, I would be replacing the sprocket holder bearing as well.

Even with my 57HP XT motor the sprocket holder did not touch the wheel hub, like that.
Thanks for the comment Kev, interesting your bike did not show the contact in the hub that mine did, I'll be changing the bearing soon.
Just some notes about the mod, because of the damage to the bearing boss I polished up the scarred aluminium with "wet & dry" so it did'nt cut up the plastic bush & the thicker you make the bush the better to give it some strength.
A couple of "perceptions" after doing this were the bike felt to have less driveline vibration and the throttle response felt sharper, more instant, perhaps because the torque is no longer twisting the hub but pulling directly in line now.
  # 5  
Old 03-08-10, 14:37
orangejohn orangejohn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piggar View Post
Thanks for the comment Kev, interesting your bike did not show the contact in the hub that mine did, I'll be changing the bearing soon.
Just some notes about the mod, because of the damage to the bearing boss I polished up the scarred aluminium with "wet & dry" so it did'nt cut up the plastic bush & the thicker you make the bush the better to give it some strength.
A couple of "perceptions" after doing this were the bike felt to have less driveline vibration and the throttle response felt sharper, more instant, perhaps because the torque is no longer twisting the hub but pulling directly in line now.
Just out of interest - did you try the 'bits of inner tube' mod? I did it a couple of thousand miles ago to save replacing the cush drive rubbers and all still seems fine. I saw no sign of contact between the sprocket carrier and the hub that I can recall anyway.
  # 6  
Old 09-08-10, 10:54
piggar piggar is offline
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Hi Orangejohn, yes I do run the "innertube mod", but I found although it took the slop out of the hub it did'nt prevent the metal to metal contact in my wheel.
I felt it was this twisting action that was doing the most damage.
Piggar.
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